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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 18:43:02 GMT -5
I'm with Geh333... Go with the UNI....
However, you may want to go up to a 102 or even maybe a 105 if you go with UNI...
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 18:25:21 GMT -5
The 7 Pin has different plugs/connectors... It could be re-wired to work but she would need an adapter harness or it would be hacked up.... She has a sweet 260 TBX, I doubt she wants wires spliced together.  That's her plugs Yes the plugs are different, but if she can not find the correct replacement. This is a solution provided that it will work. I'm sure with some work it will work. John John, yep, if you have adapter plugs it would work even better than her stock R/R. The 7-Pin R/R is very robust.. One of the best in my opinion. The extra black wire in the 7 pin harness is a voltage sense wire that is wired/tapped into the "ignition on" wire located on the back of the key switch circuit. Any good mechanic should be able to this swap with their eyes closed and with the proper adapter, it would be plug 'n play and professional. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 12:48:20 GMT -5
Hey gang, thanks for the feedback.... The deal is off. The seller wouldn't provide me the VIN through email... He actually told me he thought I was trying to scam him  Like ? How could I scam someone asking for the VIN number? The scooter was 1:15 away and I wanted to run the VIN before I made the trip... So, after I received his reply, I broke off negotiations. The price he was going to sell me it for was $400.00.... In addition, it didn't have the title so I never felt comfortable at that price point anyways... Thing is, I've noticed purchasing these used Chinese scoots are all about location, location, location... My Dad lives in St Pete FL and people practically give them away, Here in Michigan on the west side of the state, searching through CL produces very little results..... So, My hunt will continue.... I'm looking for a 150cc scoot with a good body/plastic. Doesn't matter if it's running or not as long as it's in good condition...I will be swapping the motor with a 97cc engine. I'm wanting to build my daughter a scooter... In Michigan our scooter law goes up to 100cc. If anyone has a 150cc scooter with a near perfect body and crappy engine, I got $300.00 for ya. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 12:12:13 GMT -5
I have a 7 pin that will work it has a black wire extra. If you interested have the tech at the shop call me and I can talk him through it very simple. Your welcome to call also . John The 7 Pin has different plugs/connectors... It could be re-wired to work but she would need an adapter harness or it would be hacked up.... She has a sweet 260 TBX, I doubt she wants wires spliced together. That's her plugs |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 12:06:57 GMT -5
Thanks, but that is the 5 wire. I called them for the 6 wire and that's when they told me it was back ordered. That is not a five wire R/R. It's a 6 wire, 3 yellows, one red, one white and one green. However, if you called BMS motorsports and they don't have it in stock, it's a moot point... But they're website shows it as in stock. Here's a better pic with all 6 wires:  |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 0:41:35 GMT -5
I see... I would have to see pictures. The wires themselves don't care if they transmit AC or DC... As long as plugs and pins match and you use the 3 components I mentioned above, you "might" be able to do it the way ya want.... I didn't realize you was working on two scoots.... I thought you were going bonkers for a second because not more than a few minutes earlier you told me you needed AC If all stators output AC would I be able to just simply put the wires from the stator in the right places for the DC setup? Or would it be better to just swap to the old stator? You could leave the AC firing coil wire unhooked, however, I'm not sure if that would drop that pole from the total output or not... I would have to trace how these things are wired... Could be that they just tap an extra lead for the AC firing coil....I am unsure of the consequences.... I could tell ya tomorrow. However, my suggestion is if you have a DC harness, go with DC peripherals and visa'versa.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 0:31:53 GMT -5
No. They all produce A/C current but they receive the label A/C or D/C to identify what R/R and CDI works with them... In addition, the A/C or D/C indicates if it has a pole solely dedicated to the battery or CDI. But this is where the confusion comes from... So, in short: Yes, they all produce A/C, but they also are called A/C or D/C to designate the firing method.  OK, so the connections coming from the stator used for a DC setup will be different right ? Yes. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 0:30:37 GMT -5
Perhaps you should keep this in one thread so things don't get confusing. In the other thread you said you need everything A/C. The Harness I have is for an A/C setup. -------------- *To answer this current question, Yes if you meet the following requirements -- Stator/Flywheel
- Regulator/Rectifer
- CDI
If you have a D/C harness, and the three components I listed above, yes, you can use the D/C harness. You must use the matching/corresponding components: Stator-CDI-R/R (the three should be considered an assembly, instead of separate components)
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On a side note; There's a million ways to "jury rig" when it comes to wiring and really you don't even always need to use GY6 specific parts... What I'm giving advice on is to keep it "stock". I have multiple scooters I am working on, that is why this is a different thread. This is a DC scooter, the other thread was for MY scooter which is AC. I am trying to install this new engine without cutting and rewiring everything, everything is in the scooter but the engine, it is DC powered, not AC. I would like to know if I need to switch the stator from the new engine or can I just plug the AC labeled stator into the DC wiring harness? I see... I would have to see pictures. The wires themselves don't care if they transmit AC or DC... As long as plugs and pins match and you use the 3 components I mentioned above, you "might" be able to do it the way ya want.... I didn't realize you was working on two scoots.... I thought you were going bonkers for a second because not more than a few minutes earlier you told me you needed AC |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 0:04:43 GMT -5
Do they actually make a true DC stator for these scoots ? I was under the impression that all the stators for these scoots are AC , and its the CDI and other components that are DC . which would mean , just the wiring and connectors would be different. Also the regulator. See Here |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 0:01:18 GMT -5
n/a
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Post by dmartin95 on May 21, 2015 0:00:22 GMT -5
Aren't all the stators for these scoots ac ? No. They all produce A/C current but they receive the label A/C or D/C to identify what R/R and CDI works with them... In addition, the A/C or D/C indicates if it has a pole solely dedicated to the CDI or if the CDI is powered from the battery. But this is where the confusion comes from... So, in short: Yes, they all produce A/C, but they also are called A/C or D/C to designate the firing method. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 20, 2015 23:55:22 GMT -5
I got a new engine from ebay, not knowing it was AC fired beforehand and needing the DC fired setup now. The scooter is already wired for DC and has good working electrical parts and all. Can I simply swap the stator from the ebay engine to the dc stator from the old engine to do the conversion? Perhaps you should keep this in one thread so things don't get confusing. In the other thread you said you need everything A/C. The Harness I have is for an A/C setup. -------------- *To answer this current question, Yes if you meet the following requirements -- Stator/Flywheel
- Regulator/Rectifer
- CDI
If you have a D/C harness, and the three components I listed above, yes, you can use the D/C harness. You must use the matching/corresponding components: Stator-CDI-R/R (the three should be considered an assembly, instead of separate components)
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On a side note; There's a million ways to "jury rig" when it comes to wiring and really you don't even always need to use GY6 specific parts... What I'm giving advice on is to keep it "stock". |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 20, 2015 23:41:11 GMT -5
Oh yeah, something else I would need to know is about your current CDI... Is it DC or AC? If you can make one with all the right colored wires with a little extra quality than the chinese harnesses that would be more ideal. My scooter, the one in question, is entirely AC. The harness is completely stock besides the wire I added on the ignition to power the tachometer. I will take pics tomorrow. How much do you charge to make them? If you're wanting a completely new harness, that can get pricey... Around $100.00~$500.00+ (depends on how fancy you want to go) and for something like that you normally have to send me your original harness.... You have to understand, the custom harness I build are for show bikes and people who don't look at cost as a factor. They come complete with any color of outer braided sleeve, 3M heat shrink, quality 98.9% pure copper wires, gold plated contacts and can even get as fancy as water resistant connectors/plugs. Seeing as how you're trying to do this on a budget, I was thinking more along the lines of modifying this existing harness to match yours. A true plug'n play harness... This is a good harness I'm talking about, I wouldn't sell you something that's questionable and am trying to accommodate your wallet... I can modify this existing harness to match yours... I have all the scooter connectors in stock and when I remove yours, they'll go in my bin so I'll really just be swapping around connectors at zero cost to either of us... Oh yeah, one more thing about this harness, I have both of the harness's from the scoot... The one in the headlamp bezel area and the main harness.. And I have all the switches (kill/start/hazard/turn etc etc).... It all will come with it If you're doing this on a budget I suggest getting the used/modified one vs a custom one..... If you want custom, that's cool too... I'll build ya a harness that will outlast the life of the scooter (or a basic one).  |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 20, 2015 21:36:11 GMT -5
Running a VIN check is easy and free LINKPurchasing a stolen scooter isn't my concern with the title. I live in Michigan and obtaining a title for a vehicle that's never had a MCO (manufacturer certificate of origin) submitted is a pain and expensive. I have to use alternative routes other than MI S.O.S. In short, it adds about $100.00 to my purchasing price which I must factor in. |
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Post by dmartin95 on May 20, 2015 20:16:23 GMT -5
It's a 150cc... Owner will not budge on price ... even got shot down at $25.00 bellow his asking price... Seller is firm on price, so I assume he's not in a rush... The scooter is supposed to be mechanically sound with no issues.
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