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Post by dmartin95 on Feb 1, 2015 1:11:15 GMT -5
If you have a stator that has dedicated windings for ignition , you do not need to use the dedicated winding/coils and can still power the ignition system from the battery DC . I'm not able to find the thread with the 12 pole to 11 pole and dc to ac ignition conversion it was nice with nice pictures and numbers . John You can use a 5 wire R/R on a full wave stator... It will produce electrical current.... But it will not be working optimally and you will be losing half your power. You can install a 30mm carb in place of a 24mm on a stock 150cc, and it will work, but again, not working "right".... I could go on and on... Yes, there are many ways to jury rig these scooters up... But jury rigging or mixing and matching parts and hoping they work is not fixing it right... =================== Okay, yes, you could install an 11 (AC fired) pole stator in place of a DC 12 pole (non dedicated pole) simply by not hooking up your (  I think it's called your trigger wire (the extra wire coming from the dedicated pole))...... But, we go back to it not working RIGHT.... First problem would be you're not getting your stators full amount of power because in short, you've made it a 10 pole by not including the dedicated pole.... Second problem directly relates to the first.... Because you're now working with a 10 pole and less power, your stator may not be able to produce enough power to energize all your electrical components and have enough electrical current to power the DC CDI, this can lead to timing issues..... Third problem relates to first and second..... Because you've eliminated your trigger coil (11th pole), you're R/R will be missing the some power/current (dip in current) at the timing point of fire.... So, in short, you may be able to get it to work, but it could lead to timing issues and lack of current.... Better have a huge battery and even then it's likely to be drained over and over....========================== Anyone is free to do as they please, But I advise installing an AC CDI with an AC stator and DC CDI with a DC stator... Anything else is just extra work and could lead to problems. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 31, 2015 19:01:35 GMT -5
Thanks for clarifying that for me. The shop had both labeled Ac stator and DC stator looking the same and they both looked like the AC stator you posted. So I guess they really didn't have any DC stators. How come the DC stator has 12 poles? Do they pit out even more power than the 11-pole AC? You're welcome. Stators come with many different configurations. I have a couple that are 18 pole. They are also DC, as to why they chose that specific number of coils? I don't know. Also, I'm not sure if a 12 pole makes more or less than the 11 pole... It's not just the pole count, it's also the amount of copper each coil has (your "winding's" I think they're called).... And while it's true GY6 Stators only produce AC output current, there is a very real difference between an AC and a DC stator..... As illustrated in the pictures above... An example I can give you: One of my scooters is what's considered an AC fired system. It has an AC CDI, which receives power it's power directly from the stator in parallel with the pickup... If you tried installing that 12 pole stator you would have to also convert over to a DC CDI which adds to the expense. In addition to that, re-wiring would be required. Anyhow, that is the difference between AC and DC: rather or not it has a dedicated coil for the CDI. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 31, 2015 8:19:44 GMT -5
Oh, so there is a difference between an A/C stator an D/C stator. So if I installed a DC stator on my bike, it wouldn't run because it is lacking the coil to charge the CDI? Would an AC stator work in a DC scooter? I actually bought a "DC" stator from a shop that claims they are all the same and will work in either AC or DC scooters and compared it side-by-side with my AC stator and I couldn't tell the difference. They look identical. I'm not certain myself, but I didn't want to risk frying my electrical by testing it out. It's easy to tell the difference between a DC and an AC stator. An AC stator will have one of the poles (coil) dedicated for your CDI. A scooter that is "DC" gets the power for the spark directly from the battery and only uses a low level pulse signal from your pickup coil. I will provide pics, this is an AC stator, notice how one coil is wrapped?  And this is a DC stator, notice all coils are bare:  ------------------- Now, in some instances you can mix and match and get it to work, but working and working right are two different things. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 30, 2015 11:55:21 GMT -5
First off the carb u bought will not be too big . this is a proven fact. So let us know how it goes. I would start with a 125 main and go from there . also use the 40 pilot and do the same " see how it goes and adjust if necessary. My thing is, I don't know what Jet I'm starting out with.... I just had a Chat with Dexter from Parts for scooters and he's gonna get the info for me... I can't believe they (Hoca) didn't stamp this jet. On a side note, Parts for scooters IMO is the BEST place to get parts from... They offered to send me any jet I wanted.... I declined of course because I don't know what I'm starting out with... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 30, 2015 9:05:09 GMT -5
What I'd like others to chime in on is about : will a bigger carb pull more fuel from a main jet then a smaller carb ? That is if the same size main jet is used in both and only at top end . This was touched on before but not in depth. I too have wondered about this... In fact, I think you and I have briefly touched on this subject in the past. I purchased a 30mm Hoca Carb to go on my 180cc power kit I bought from PFS. I figured worst case scenario I would decrease the Jet size but I've had a couple of people tell me the carb is going to be too big. 250cc's come with 30mm carbs.... However, I don't know stock jet sizes.... On a side note, I have pulled the float bowl off of my Hoca 30mm carb and I can not identify the size of the main Jet. The idle is a 40, but they also included a 38 and a 42. Has anyone else purchased this carb and do you know what size the main jet is? Hoca 30mm
on a side note, the 30mm carb is listed for 125/150cc's.... Not 250cc's.  |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 29, 2015 9:31:57 GMT -5
Have you ever heard the saying; Opinions are like A-holes, we all have one......
So, Im going to give my opinion even though I'm sure my opinion will be in the minority.
ABSOLUTELY YES - Your tire should be balanced..
Even a 10" should be balanced.
Keep this in mind, balancing isn't just sticking a weight on a tire... It will also check to see if the rim is bent or if the tire is out of round.
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 27, 2015 15:17:09 GMT -5
I have a 5 wire connection on my harness. It has the same style connector as the full wave 6 pin above, but minus one wire in the four pin connector. How can I tell if it is full wave? The link to the 6pin regulator doesn't say full wave. Would the six pin r/r above work with my 5 wire setup? You can tell if your R/R is a full wave by the wire count of the AC coming in from your stator. If you have 3, yellow wires (AC from stator to R/R) on your R/R it's a full wave R/R. The six pin should be plug and play if you have the 11 pole stator. However, all these scooters are different and even though the connectors will mate up, you have to be careful and make sure your pins match. But the 7 pin is better. The additional Black wire works as a voltage sense and when your not needing the extra power your stator makes at high RPM's, it will shunt the excess energy away from your stator to prevent burning up your stator. The 6 PIN does this with internal circuitry which does not account for external variances. The white (sometimes pink) on these 6/7 wire R/R are A/C out put for lights and enricher.. *Note, this is not the case for 4 pin R/R's and 5 pin can be different as well. 4 pin R/R, white/pink (and maybe other color) will be A/C input, not an output.) Green is ground Yellow is A/C in from stator. Red is regulated power output. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 26, 2015 21:02:09 GMT -5
It spikes up to 15.8 v sometimes during revs and at idle it dips down to 11v. As for the stator I have a 11-pole that was recently installed. So the stator is pretty new and working correctly I think Jerry is right. If you upgraded to an 11 pole, you must also upgrade the R/R if the existing one can not support the power output of your stator, How many wires does your R/R have? Also, do you know if the R/R is a full wave R/R? 15.8 ~ 11volts is too radical of a swing and you may burn up your components if they don't have good tolerances. These are the R/R's you will need for a 11 pole stator: 7 wire full wave: 6 wire full wave: |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 24, 2015 14:04:38 GMT -5
I would not recommend the Dr. Pulley Kit, the only thing that I think is worth while are the Dr. Pulley weights they are of good quality and last longer. What isn't you don't like about Dr. Pulley? The price? I know you've been doing the admin/mod thing for a while, have you seen lot's of dr pulley failure threads? |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 24, 2015 13:34:13 GMT -5
Ok, the stock bore and stroke of these two motors are as follows:
GY6 50cc Original Size: 39mm*41.4mm (49.4cc)
GY6 80cc Original Size: 47mm*41.4mm (71.8cc)
Now, almost all GY6 50cc parts are listed for the 139QMB. The 39 in that number is for the piston displacement size.
I'm also finding parts for the GY6 80cc, however I can not find a base engine stamp. Based on the size of the components, it should be a 147QMD, but I can not find an engine with this stamp.
When it comes to the bigger 150cc, there are some that have 54mm stud spacing and other with 57mm... Hence, the a and b case engines... I'm wondering if the 50cc's have a similar difference...
When it comes to the 50cc range, does anyone know any other stamps besides 139QMB?
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 24, 2015 10:45:32 GMT -5
62 MPH (GPS Verified) on a stock Bintelli Havoc 150cc.
I weigh 160Lbs.
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 22, 2015 21:49:23 GMT -5
Hey Demartin95,,I have the HF tire changer but I dont have the MC adapter,,do you have that and if so how does it work for scooter tires? Thanks Tom Yeah, I have the MC adapter but it's "gimicky" and needs modifications for most scooters. The main problem is the shaft that goes through the center of the rim has too big of a diameter. I solved this by using a coupling and fabricating a ROD that would fit through the center hole. The other issue is the tire clamps... You will need additional C clamps (or something) to hold them in place. Next time I have a flat I will make a video showing how to use this contraption. :)It works with mods, but it certainly wasn't designed with scooter rims in mind.... |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 22, 2015 20:16:27 GMT -5
Great Video Scooter!
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 22, 2015 20:15:07 GMT -5
The only way I know of for sure is to actually take the tires off and take them to a tire shop. Have them check to see if your wheels and tires are balanced. They can find out if your wheel is bent or the tire is out of round..... Why spend money on a shop when you can do it with a marker, a piece of wood or metal, and some tape? I can understand spending money on large wheels that require balancing for a decent ride in a cage. But 10-12" wheels do not require balancing, maybe a pack of dynabeads. I have no doubt you can figure out if your wheel is balanced by using your method. Jerseyboys Method (zip tie) may work as well and I'm sure there's other methods that have yet to be mentioned... But remember, everybody's skill sets are different and tire safety isn't something to be messed around with IMO... IF the author of this thread doesn't have much experience with these types fixes/inspections, he should IMO have the pro's look at it... I don't think they would charge very much to check his wheels. Me personally, I've got the HF tire changer, wheel-balancer and the whole deal... I wouldn't take my wheel anywhere, but I have a little experience with this stuff now... I take tire safety very seriously and rely on HF Balancer and digital indicator to make sure nothing is bent or out of round. In the event I didn't have my tools, I would go to a pro. |
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Post by dmartin95 on Jan 22, 2015 16:56:37 GMT -5
How can I know if the wheel or rim (both?  ) are bent?  The only way I know of for sure is to actually take the tires off and take them to a tire shop. Have them check to see if your wheels and tires are balanced. They can find out if your wheel is bent or the tire is out of round..... |
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) are bent?