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Post by scooter on Oct 17, 2014 16:20:52 GMT -5
Maybe you can put the pin through one of several pairs of slots for different "action". A standard pulley only has two slots. A shift in angles would mean the tension of the pulley would change at that angled point. The slot to the left in your picture looks like it would give you even tension all the way from bottom to top, and the one to the right of it looks like maybe it would kind of semi-lock the pin in place, allowing the variator to keep it open (in high gear) with less effort, allowing you to back off the throttle in high gear will keeping the clutch open. I am sure I am confused and probably have it all backwards, as I have not taken the time to study the clutch mechanism, but one thing is for sure, the different angles are going to change the RPM curve of the scooter in conjunction with the variator. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 17, 2014 4:54:52 GMT -5
I got screwed over by too many mechanics, and I don't like working on large vehicles because it's expensive and time consuming and the parts are crammed together and it is frustrating.
I now have a vehicle I can afford to fix and that I can fix practically overnight. Definitely overnight if I have the parts. Plus no more 100 dollar fill ups.
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Post by scooter on Oct 17, 2014 4:50:40 GMT -5
And just to make it easier, the colors for the tach are as follows: Trigger/pick-up wire: Yellow with a black stripe 12v Power: Solid Black 12v Ground: Soild Green Thank you, Dmartin! |
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Post by scooter on Oct 16, 2014 23:39:16 GMT -5
I just went through this..well mine worked just worked all wonkey. If your tach has separate light and tack power cables. Run the 2 for the light off of your scoots head lamp or cluster light power. Run the two that power the tack off of your battery with the negative feeding off of your key ignition. Run the 5th wire (signal wire) off of the wire feeding your coil. Check with a volt meter for witch one is powered and it should work. I just hooked the wire up onto the connection at the coil. I ran both power feeds from my lights and it caused my tack to work weird...but once I put a better CDI on it worked just fine. Dunno why, it was thought that because I don't get a full 12 volts to my lights unless I'm running above idle speed, was causing some weird interference, but putting on a new CDI it works just fine. Thank you, Shannen. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 16, 2014 23:31:37 GMT -5
It doesn't get any better than that. No shims for you.  Are you running the 115mm ramp sheave? I have this variator www.partsforscooters.com/169-24I was fortunate enough that my scoot has a 115mm drive face stock. Looks nice. From what I've seen, so far, all of the variators have a 115mm drive face. I suppose it's to have a large fan for cooling?  |
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Post by scooter on Oct 16, 2014 16:21:54 GMT -5
Yep, I poo poo any shims, widening the variator pulley is like getting a belt that is has less width and you will loose top end. Just think about it for a minute what happens after you get a new belt and it wears down, DUH, you loose top end now ask yourself, self why.  But the really bad thing about shimming is now you may not have enough splines for the Pulley Face to grab and that spells big trouble in river city. Dealers will try and sell anything as performance for the mighty buck and unfortunately the unknowing believe the hype and get relieved of some coins.  Hey if your that gullible I have a Beach Front Property In Arizona I Am Willing To Sell Real Cheap  Alleyoop Thank you Alleyoop. I love the beach.  |
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Post by scooter on Oct 16, 2014 16:18:40 GMT -5
scooter With my Hoca Variator no shims are needed as my belt goes all the way to the top and bottom of the pulley. You can only go so low in the pulley before your belt is riding on the engine shaft. After that point, opening your variator more is just a waste. It doesn't get any better than that. No shims for you. Are you running the 115mm ramp sheave? |
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Post by scooter on Oct 16, 2014 5:06:16 GMT -5
I am fixing up a 2009 Kinroad 150cc scooter and the tach is not working. The lights, dash lights, speedometer and fuel gauge all work fine, but the tach does nothing. Would someone tell me how the tach works, like where the wires from the tach go to on the bike, and how to troubleshoot it? I'd like to learn how to fix electrical things and I could really some expert advice. Thank you.  |
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Post by scooter on Oct 16, 2014 0:24:31 GMT -5
I got a nice used 1/2" air impact wrench on ebay for under $10 and a manual tool for holding the variator and clutch, to take on the road, for under $20. I also saw a video where someone used a rubber belt wrench to hold the variator instead of the manual tool.
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Post by scooter on Oct 15, 2014 22:45:48 GMT -5
OK, makes sense. But aren't I losing a lot of potential power? If I read the graphs correctly, the power drops off pretty significantly going from, say, 7500 down to the low 6k's (looks to be about a 13% drop off). Have no need to get to a higher speed - this little scoot (200 lbs about) does not have a suspension safe at 65 - not even at 60 if there is anything other than smooth pavement. But I WOULD like to have a bit more reserve power to get to desired speed more quickly, or to hill climb w/o losing as much speed. These control shims from scootertuning.ca, will widen your variator, lowering your belt, increasing your rpms. It should make hill climbing better, and at top end you will have to run higher rpms to get the same top speed you have now. The shims are very thin, 0.012" to 0.031", and will allow you to fine tune your rpms. scootertuning.ca/fr/variators/31037-variocontrol-special-top-performances-10-03-05-08mm-for-15mm-taper.htmlI will also add that I just put some Dr Pulley 8g sliders in my scoot and measured the plate/roller/ramp sheave assembly. The new assembly measures .010" less than the roller assembly when the rollers/sliders are at the bottom, meaning my belt radius should drop 0.020"*, increasing off the line torque, BUT, from what I can read of the "marker test", the DrPulley sliders raised the belt radius at top end by about 0.075". That's a huge jump that will lower top end rpm, but also pushes the limits of the engine's ability to move the bike faster. (I'm geared about as high as I can be without losing top end speed.) This setup is giving me 7500rpm@55mph and 6800rpm@WOT(at35mph**).These weights with this current variator are in my sweet zone, as I do most of my driving at 55-60mph. The acceleration rpms rise so fast that the digital tach struggles to keep up. *(I've been rounding to 2, but I think the actual number is 1.865 units of belt rise or fall per 1 unit change in width between pulleys.) **( I chose 35mph at random because the WOT rpms rise, the faster I go, so I had to pick something to use as a baseline to compare different variator setups. I have been using MPH@7500rpm, WOT-RPM@35MPH, and RPM@top-speed as references). Before anyone poo poos the shims, I will leave the following notes. On top end and RPM: Two limiting factors. 1)The first limiting factor is how hard the engine can pull. If the engine is struggling to reach 7500 rpm at top end, then the engine can't handle more load, and making the belt ride even higher, by cutting the boss or unshimming, will actually cause the bike to lose top end. If you are in fifth gear, to use an analogy, and you can barely keep the rpm up to 7500, then shifting into sixth gear is going to lose you even more rpms and speed. 2)The second limiting factor is redlining. If you are struggling at 55mph@7500, and you lower the belt, by widening the variator with shims, your rpms will go up. You will now be able to go faster BUT your rpms will go higher, and you have to decide how many rpms you think the engine can take. Let's say you moved to 55mph@8000rpm and have more throttle to go. Do you really want to wind the engine up to 9000rpm to go faster? You could, but do you want to risk it? At some point, raising the RPMs won't help any more. Even at full throttle, you'll be geared so low that the engine just can't rev any higher or has blown up. Lowering the RPMs won't help either because you won't have the power to push higher gearing. At this point, you are done tuning your variator with weight and shim exchanges. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 13, 2014 20:07:16 GMT -5
Wow!! Rollers chewed up down to the metal I would think you would have noticed the problem long before that happened no top end whatsoever no weight left to push the variator out to squeeze the belt up the pulley. It is no wonder the belt got shredded, got to be a little more tentative to checking and inspecting things out. Its a scooter with a motor that can get you killed if not working right.  Alleyoop It seemed okay. As I mentioned on another thread, the KOSO 115mm variator ran low rpms, which is why I was using 8g rollers, and it vibrated at takeoff, but then had super nice acceleration above 5-10 mph with WOT RPM on acceleration at 5600. I was doing 60mph when the belt fried without warning. (Notes say my top rpm with that setup was 7500ish itistheride.boards.net/post/75114/thread )This all happened in a matter of a few weeks of installing the new variator. Later I noticed the bushing in the variator was wallowed out on the side facing the engine. That may or may not have been the cause of the vibration at start off, or it may have been the result of the vibration at start off. Whatever the case, the motor was struggling to get the bike moving off the line. I had sent off for shims, to widen the variator a little so my belt would start a little lower, easing the strain on the engine and raising my WOT RPM as well, but this happened first:   |
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Post by scooter on Oct 13, 2014 19:20:08 GMT -5
I stuck an old variator in mine and crimped it shut. I have a bigger variator that would have sat against the back of the muffler and would have looked nice but I was too lazy to drill and tap it and do it right. The sound is good, but the best sound I got was from putting a drive face against the end of the pipe with the fins facing the pipe, letting air out in an annular direction. Plus it was lighter, but there would have been nothing to attach to the pipe, and I didn't feel like making anything.  |
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Post by scooter on Oct 13, 2014 14:58:43 GMT -5
One thing that I did notice about the HOCA was after only 20 or so miles, the teflon had completely worn off and a couple of the sliders already had flat spots. I didn't b*tch about it causes seriously I couldn't tell any ill effects in it's performance. I'd keep an eye on it. My KOSO did the same thing and after a short time the belt shredded and three of the rollers were chewed up down to the metal. Also the bushing was wallowed out in back. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 13, 2014 6:51:25 GMT -5
I had such good results with the Hoca with the 115 mm drive face and 12 gram rollers on my Lance Vintage that I stopped there. Jay Leno is the self declared President of the "More Money than Brains Club" and there comes a point where you are just throwing good money after bad so I will just sit back and watch as others turn their rides into money pits. Remember I got a scoot to save money not spend more. What ever I do has to show a return on the investment and not just a growing loss with a bunch of zeros adding up to the right. Good thinking, Rocky. I must say I'm infatuated with my CVT. I have been reading about them for decades and now I own one! I had no idea they were all around me. Now I've made a hobby out of understanding this particular one and tweaking on it. It's fun knowing that can have extensive modifications done to it for less than I paid for a tank of gas in my truck. |
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Post by scooter on Oct 12, 2014 23:11:01 GMT -5
Physically you can fill the head with water and measure how much water it held, and you could do the same for the cylinder but the math for a cylinder is really easy, so if you have the parts in hand, you can calculate what your compression ratio will be that way.HUH?!? could you elaborate a little on that? I was just joking about the wiki thing. The trouble with wiki is anyone can go in and edit any of the info on it. In the past I was (well still am) seriously into rare plecos (fish) and it was pretty common not to trust info on wiki. Jackarses who thought they know everything would often edit the info pages with seriously wrong info. Sadly, people can edit it, but a lot of other people tend to find bad info and unedit it. I once posted a link to one of my websites and within 24 hours some angry person let me know via email that .coms can't post on there to pages that sell stuff, that my edit had been removed, and not to do it again. lol The key to using wikipedia seriously is to go to the sources they used to get their information. Those are not on wikipedia and cannot be randomly edited. To clarify, compression ratio, as I understand it, is the ratio of the volume of air when the piston starts to compress the air in it, and the final volume of compressed air. So if your piston held 100cc's of air as the valves close, and compressed it to a volume of 10cc's, that would be a 10:1 compression ratio. Correct me if I am wrong. I am no mechanic. and of course it's never that simple. also on wikipedia is a bunch of brain bashing math and science about it, like this little tidbit for example: "The absolute cylinder pressure is the result of an exponent of the dynamic compression ratio. This exponent is a polytropic value for the ratio of variable heats for air and similar gases at the temperatures present. This compensates for the temperature rise caused by compression, as well as heat lost to the cylinder. Under ideal (adiabatic) conditions, the exponent would be 1.4, but a lower value, generally between 1.2 and 1.3 is used, since the amount of heat lost will vary among engines based on design, size and materials used, but provides useful results for purposes of comparison. For example, if the static compression ratio is 10:1, and the dynamic compression ratio is 7.5:1, a useful value for cylinder pressure would be (7.5)^1.3 × atmospheric pressure, or 13.7 bar. (× 14.7 psi at sea level = 201.8 psi. The pressure shown on a gauge would be the absolute pressure less atmospheric pressure, or 187.1 psi.)" en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Compression_ratio |
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