Eh....think this is a customers bike...next wire fault equals more shop time equals more chaching...lol
Not me. I like satisfied customers. I am fixing this one to sell and I wanted to get everything working, within my abilities. Thanks to you guys, I got it fixed. There was a loose connection at the CDI due to a loose blade connector on the black and white wire, the kill wire. It was also broken on the way to the kill switch. Someone had switched the black/white wire with the black/yellow wire, the kill and tach wires, so the kill switch would work, but they killed the tach connection in the process. Everything is working now, and I am glad you guys encouraged me to look into the problem rather than just running an extra wire. I now know how the kill switch connects to the CDI and also how the tach is connected. A big accomplishment for me. If anything, knowing everything is working well will give me more leverage in the sale, resulting in more cha-ching that way.
So I had this problem before and which eventually led to me changing out the carburetor since it eventually would not run. (See Priming the Carburetor on page 2 or 3).
With a brand new carburetor, the scooter is finally firing up and running. However, the original problem is still happening. The scooter dies at the exact same locations on a road going about 45-50 mph. However, at night time, there is no problem at all. The scooter only dies when I am riding. I can put the scooter on the center kickstand and rev it all I want without any issue (except for one time my spark plug boot came loose, of which I thought may have been the issue, but apparently not). Here's a few things I've noticed:
Only rides well at night, eh? Sounds like a classic case of Scooter Vampires. Have you considered avoiding those locations? They may be haunted.
I'm with Alley and think there's something going on with that muffler. Possibly a manufacturing defect. Don't spose you have a spare muffler laying round to swap with Heck just take it off and see if you can get anything like that to happen without it on. That right there will tell you if it's the engine or the muffler. I usually prefer to use the process of elimination if you don't know right away what the problem is.
Will do! See my last post to Alley. Seems it was missing a finger.
The art work is excellent. The mirror finish on the helmet is amazing and well the whole thing is beautiful. Nice work, Leo.
Thanks! Have a bone!
I was sixteen then, and just getting started in art as more than a hobby. I graduated the American Academy of Art in Chicago, then got drafted... The Army was good, and I spent my time as an illustrator in the 15th PSYOP Battalion. Doing all the propaganda got me into advertising art later on... LOL! We DID manage to save a bunch of lives on BOTH sides of the Viet Nam war with our efforts though.
Ok I did see it backfire , if the EGR is not connected to anything and it does not have a Vacuum operating a valve THEN PLUG that outlet on that EGR Valve it is allowing some air to be sucked in JB weld it. Remember Backfires are caused by a Lean condition the motor is sucking in air from someplace contrary to what everyone thinks that is it to RICH(NOT).
Normally that EGR would go to a Canister operated by Vacuum and have a hose going to a connector on the tubing between the Air Filter and the carb to send the unburned fumes back into the motor to be reburned. I have seen where the Canister and or Vacuum failed and the canister started on fire. Alleyoop
That was it. When I stick my finger over the end of the little outlet, no more back fire. Thanks, Alley. As far as I can tell, this scooter is now 100% good to go!
I just went through this..well mine worked just worked all wonkey.
If your tach has separate light and tack power cables. Run the 2 for the light off of your scoots head lamp or cluster light power. Run the two that power the tack off of your battery with the negative feeding off of your key ignition. Run the 5th wire (signal wire) off of the wire feeding your coil. Check with a volt meter for witch one is powered and it should work. I just hooked the wire up onto the connection at the coil.
I ran both power feeds from my lights and it caused my tack to work weird...but once I put a better CDI on it worked just fine. Dunno why, it was thought that because I don't get a full 12 volts to my lights unless I'm running above idle speed, was causing some weird interference, but putting on a new CDI it works just fine.
Thank you, Shannen.
Woohoo! Yeah! The coil seems to be getting a signal from the yellow and black wire, as it won't start if I disconnect it, but somewhere on the way to the tach there must be a break. I ran a wire straight from the tach to the same leg on the coil along with the other wire and the tack worked! Nice! Thank you!
Is it okay to just run a separate line from the tack and join it at the coil with the other black and yellow wire or is there a better way?
I like them too. In Florida it's mostly greens and browns all year. I have not seen fall colors in a long time. I'm going to have to take a trip up North some day.
You guys must have never heard a backfire. That is not a backfire you will know when it backfires SOUNDS LIKE A GUN GOING OFF. All I heard was what sounds like a leaking muffler making a whistling sort of sound but other than that RIDE RIDE RIDE . Alleyoop
That whistling is the camera picking up the engine ignition. Check out this new video. This time you can see the flame come out.
Also, could this little doodad have anything to do with anything? As you can see, the outlet goes nowhere. This is an EGR?
I'm with Alley and think there's something going on with that muffler. Possibly a manufacturing defect. Don't spose you have a spare muffler laying round to swap with Heck just take it off and see if you can get anything like that to happen without it on. That right there will tell you if it's the engine or the muffler. I usually prefer to use the process of elimination if you don't know right away what the problem is.
As I mentioned, the siren/whistle noise is the camera picking up the engine's ignition signal. Check out my new post to Alley below along with some new info.
I put up a video. I think it's a backfire but it doesn't sound like when my scooter backfires. In the video it sounds like a pop, but in real life it's more 3 dimensional, like a fast high pitched sound followed by a whoosh. Still, I'm now thinking backfire. Weird sounding backfire.
did you try inspecting the studs to your exhaust if its leaking it can cause backfires like that i had the exact same problem i heard it in the video sounded identical to what was happening to me.
I checked my nuts and they are tight. I tried another approach to the video though, with clearer results. Check it out. Also check out my post to Alley. I'm including pictures of what I think is an EGR valve?
i had that sounds happen to me like you said it sounds like it coming from the muffler right? what i did was take the muffler off inspect the gasket make sure thats good then i tightened everything back up and the sounds went away. im pretty sure the bolts i had in there (stock studs broke) loosened up and i didnt notice hopefully its something easy like that for you as well. it could also be a backfire into your carb and the sound is coming out of ur air filter not sure what to do about that one im sure someone will chime in on that tho.
I put up a video. I think it's a backfire but it doesn't sound like when my scooter backfires. In the video it sounds like a pop, but in real life it's more 3 dimensional, like a fast high pitched sound followed by a whoosh. Still, I'm now thinking backfire. Weird sounding backfire.
From your explanation sounds more like pinging detonating put in a higher octane gas. I mean you cannot make a mistake if it is backfiring that is a (POW) sound, and other sounds are BRAT and POP sounds. Alleyoop
I put some new high octane gas in it and ran it a few minutes. I don't know if all of the old gas is out yet, but I was able to get the sound to repeat by revving it up, holding it, then letting off. It makes the noise just as I let off or a little afterward. It reminds me of a backfire but with the explosion being squeezed out of a tiny hole, making a high pitched chuff and a hiss like air letting out, like something is blowing up, then quickly the air is squeezing out. I'm going to try to put up a video, but it doesn't sound much like the ral thing. I think the rattly noise is the shop fan blowing, and the siren-like noise is electrical noise coming from the ignition. You can't hear that sound in real life. The explosion sounds different too, but for what it's worth.. You'll hear the chuff at 13 seconds. Aslo I noted that the engine bogs down a lot if the air filter box lid is open. It's not open here in the video though.
If anything, knowing everything is working well will give me more leverage in the sale, resulting in more cha-ching that way. 
