|
Post by scooter on Dec 1, 2014 18:27:14 GMT -5
Yes, like Todd and Spandi said, take your bolt to a good hardware store and they will have a selection of metric nuts. If you don't have a thread gauge and you want to learn how to measure threads with a caliper or ruler, I will show you how.
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Dec 1, 2014 0:12:55 GMT -5
Ladies and Gentlemen....The answer is..... Improperly seated spark plug boot. -_- Lol, I completely neglected to check that until I was going in to do my valve adjustment today. At least the scoot has had a nice tune up anyway. I hate that! I have replaced my plug boot twice since June. I think my engine was possibly running too hot. Someone suggested that could have been the reason for the failures. I'm glad you found your problem!
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Dec 1, 2014 0:09:39 GMT -5
Vacuum operated fuel pump. Have you switched over to electric yet, Shannen?
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 29, 2014 14:26:56 GMT -5
The wedge-shape of sliders allow FULL opening and closing of the variator, in theory at least, improving BOTH acceleration AND top-end. Any riders with slider experience, please chime in... Alleyoop maybe?I have a set of sliders now, and they are a good fit for my setup, giving me low end torque and also allowing my Vbelt to go a little higher than it could with even heavier rollers. I would recommend them to anyone who wants to get the maximum torque and speed out of a stock variator.
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 29, 2014 14:11:54 GMT -5
I'm driving a used 150cc large body scooter. You can click my link below to see it.
For me it has been the CVT. I'd like to see a newer, more reliable, link system that won't fly apart without notice.
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 29, 2014 13:45:40 GMT -5
How would you design a more reliable CVT than the ones that are common on most scooters? What do think is the weakest link in the system, the pulleys, the rollers/actuators, the belts, etc?
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 26, 2014 20:47:08 GMT -5
The worst part of riding my scooter is always worrying about something breaking Geez, I forgot about that. I might fear that even worse than the cold? I don't know what's going on in that engine but I'm pretty sure it's magic. It is.
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 26, 2014 17:00:08 GMT -5
The worst part of riding my scooter is always worrying about something breaking in the middle of a trip. I don't trust these belts at high speed any more, plus I lost two spark plug connectors before upjetting.
Now, if I am going somewhere more than a few miles away, I drive about 45-50 mph in hopes of keeping the CVT and engine cooler and not having problems. On my Hondas I felt like I could drive to China and back, but on my scooter, I'm afraid to drive to the nearest city.
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 26, 2014 4:40:53 GMT -5
it's better to spend your money on a few high strength parts than a lot of weak ones that won't last 5 seconds of WOT without reducing their lifespan. I agree, CCR. That's why I have stayed away from doing a BBK. I don't want one unless I'm going to upgrade other components that were designed to work with a smaller displacement engine.
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 26, 2014 4:36:55 GMT -5
I believe this is correct, though am not familiar with your model: 1. The rotor attaches to the wheel. So, you would need a different rear wheel 2. The caliper (or drum) attached to the CV case. It appears you are getting a new CV case, so you should be set there. 3. Rear drum brakes are usually mechanical, while disk are usually hydraulic. If you switch to drum you would then need a new cable, bracket, brake lever, etc. If you stay with hydraulic that is not the case. There also may be a dimensional difference in the Cv case. The disk caliper must be the correct distance from the wheel such that the rotor spins right in the middle of the caliper (which, again, is attached to the CV case). But, if the case would "attach" the caliper such that it isn't correctly positioned in regards to the rotor - major thing to fix. I see what you mean. On mine the caliper is on the right side. My engine casing is probably built for a drum brake but I'm not sure. My disk brake parts are all unrelated to the engine. Just a caliper on the arm and a hydraulic line ran up to the handlebar.
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 25, 2014 17:51:40 GMT -5
I was wanting to buy a 180cc upgrade kit but it appears to be setup for drum brakes. My Scooter is a Bintelli Havoc 150cc and I have both front and rear disk brakes. Is it possible to use my components off my disk brake engine and convert the drum in this 180cc kit to disk? </div>I have been wondering about brakes, myself. From what I can tell, the rim has the disk mounts on it and the swingarm has mounting holes for the calipers, so I don't know if there is any difference in the engine for those two setups at all.
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 25, 2014 17:47:50 GMT -5
That's cool. Thanks, JR!
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 23, 2014 23:44:15 GMT -5
You get to carry your 1911 ? Jealous. Here in Kommiefornia the last thing imaginable would be to have a 2nd Amendment. Here in Florida we have concealed carry only. If someone sees your gun, chances are they are looking down the barrel.
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 23, 2014 14:52:22 GMT -5
I like to solidify things into my mind so I'll remember them later, so I looked up why dry air is more dense than moist air. According to my research, dry air consists of mostly Nitrogen molecules, which are two nitrogen atoms, each with a molecular weight of about 14, giving us a total molecular weight of around 28 for one nitrogen molecule, whereas moist air has a lot of H20 in it, which is 2xH and 1xO. A hydrogen atom has a weight of one, and an oxygen atom has a weight of 8. That's a total molecular weight of 10 per water molecule. Therefore a Nitrogen molecule has a molecular weight of about 18 more than a water molecule; well over twice as heavy. Here is a nice youtube video for anyone who is interested:
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Nov 23, 2014 13:36:55 GMT -5
Like the title says i have a 2012 GMW Rx50 and it looks like someone tried to start it with a screwdriver they did the same to the seat lock. Now i'm proud of both of the locks because they wouldn't turn for them but my problem now is they won't turn anymore with the key.... I have the front clip pulled so i can hotwire my scoot so i can get to work does anyone know of a wiring diagram for these scooters? I have to do this until payday then i can get new locks but i don't have the 50 bucks until then..... Stupid damn thieves...... A popular online auction site sells alarm systems with remotes that disable the bike for about ten dollars, including a siren. For about 20 dollars it will also include a remote starting feature.
|
|