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Post by scooter on Jul 5, 2015 5:46:57 GMT -5
Put the right amount of oil in it, put a small amount down the spark plug hole to get it to crank over again and see if lack of oil is the problem. This is not a cure if the rings are fouled but it will make it drivable for a little while. The proper fix would be new rings or cylinder or both depending upon condition. Thanks. I already had put oil in the case before I put some in the cylinder. It seems pretty certain that the carb is working and that it has spark. I'm going to do a leakdown test on it next and see if I can locate the source of the problem. That may tell me whether it's a valve problem or a cylinder/ring problem. |
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Post by scooter on Jul 4, 2015 12:28:09 GMT -5
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Post by scooter on Jul 1, 2015 20:56:00 GMT -5
Thanks or turning me on to the hyabusa smart car. The one in this video is fast, agile, has excellent throttle/traction control and is very stable in a spin despite looking a little top heavy.
I like the rims and rear wraparound windows of the IQ, and the somewhat whimsical "futuristic" look of the Smart. I don't know anything about their drivetrains.
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Post by scooter on Jul 1, 2015 18:35:17 GMT -5
lain tvnacman crawford steve toddmaples EDIT:PLEASE SEE UPDATES IN RED. (Then green, then blue.)2013 Bintelli Sprint 50cc 4 stroke won't start in spite of having spark, fuel, and compression. EDIT:COMPRESSION GAUGE SAYS  PSI MAX.
I watched the spark plug make spark, I cleaned the carb and got fuel on my hand when cranking by covering the intake with my hand as a test for fuel flow, (However, after several attempts at cranking the engine, the spark plug was not wet, not fouled or burnt either.) the gas cap is vented, the vacuum lines appear to be working, activating the fuel petcock and letting fuel flow out the line, I adjusted the intake and exhaust valves properly, and compression feels good by the"stick your thumb on the hole" method. EDIT: COMPRESSION TEST SAYS PSI MAX.On cranking, there is no sign of popping or attempting to start, in spite of having spark and probably good fuel flow. I also tested it with a used but working cdi and coil with no result. I think the gas should be okay and it smells pretty much like gas and the filter looks good. I sprayed some "extremely flammable" carb cleaner into the intake manifold and still no combustion. EDIT: ALSO TRIED STARTING FLUID I'm thinking maybe weak spark? The battery is strong, indicating the battery and charging system are working properly. EDIT: ALSO MIGHT INDICATE ENGINE IS TOO EASY TO TURN OVER AND THAT'S WHY THE BATTERY IS HOLDING UP SO WELL TO SO MUCH CRANKING. I TURNED THE FAN BY HAND AND THE MOTOR DOESN'T FEEL LIKE IT'S VERY HARD TO TURN OVER AT ALL. EDIT:ALSO THE DIPSTICK READ NO OIL, ALTHOUGH THERE APPARENTLY WAS AT LEAST SOME OIL IN IT.
ALSO, I PUT A LITTLE OIL IN THE SPARK PLUG HOLE. THIS WAS SUPPOSED TO TEST FOR COMPRESSION LEAKS IN THE RINGS. I BROKE THE COMPRESSION TOOL SO I DIDN'T GET TO RETEST COMPRESSION, BUT SOMETHING ELSE HAPPENED. I WAS ABLE TO GET IT TO CRANK UP FOR A FEW SECONDS WITH SOME BURNING WHITE SMOKE AS WOULD BE EXPECTED WITH THE OIL IN THERE. SO, I ASSUME MAYBE THE RINGS ARE LEAKY AND THE OIL HELPED THEM SEAL ENOUGH TO START THE ENGINE BY INCREASING COMPRESSION?
NEXT EDIT:
A leak down test showed some leaking, but putting air into the cylinder only made a hissing noise just before and after TDC with the valves still not touching the rocker arms. I think the cylinder may be damaged, or the rings, or the valves. 
Another compression tester registered only 70psi.
I put oil in the cylinder and redid the test. The compression went up to around 120. I am suspecting the rings or cylinder or both.
Okay. Got a new head and cylinder on it, compression reads 125 with the kick starter. Scooter cranked up like a champ, but has a little smoke. I am told this might be the rings seating, and I sure hope so. If not.... I'll have to do it again. The bike also got a new variator, belt, fuel filter, valves adjusted, etc. It's running great. The owner is breaking it in, and I'm putting a new clutch on it this weekend. So far so good!  lain tvnacman crawford steve toddmaples geh3333
Final update:
Smoking has stopped and all is well. Done.
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Post by scooter on Jul 1, 2015 15:55:04 GMT -5
Sorry about your wreck, Ricardo. Get well soon. Have a bone on me for wearing your gear.
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Post by scooter on Jun 15, 2015 15:53:24 GMT -5
someone suggested it might be a float bowl running out of fuel. that would explain the delay in it getting going again. that is a possibility. i had a problem with gas getting in my oil awhile ago. my petcock was leaking and the carb floats weren't adjusted right so fuel was constantly dripping into the engine. i readjusted the floats but over compensated and it ran similar to what you describe. if i was running at WOT for more than 20 seconds it would bog down. As I recall, it turned out that Rocky was right, and I had a vacuum leak that was keeping the fuel pump from operating at high speed. Another case closed. |
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Post by scooter on Jun 11, 2015 16:31:32 GMT -5
It seems a calculable problem. Let's think it through. What are we asking? volume and smallest opening of the carb hole, piston of x size, running at y rpm, something like that? We would have to take into consideration manifold , valve size , intake and exhaust size, carb and jet sizes, air filter , head size , carb size . not only that , we would have to compare all of this to a stock carb and a stock bore . we would have to know the suction of the piston . this would vary from scoot to scoot. It would be much harder then it sounds. Oh. I thought you were asking how much air and fuel a carb could feed an engine. |
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Post by scooter on Jun 11, 2015 16:06:58 GMT -5
Bingo, Hit the nail right on the head. Velocity is Very, Very Important, I.m not in much favor of throwing on considerable larger Carb's for the same Velocity reason, The Stocker or just a little larger already Out Flows what the Engine can use. Big Carb, Large Port is like Flushing a Toilet into a Straw. That's the issue others had also , with bigger carbs. However it seems as if these scoots may be under carbed from the start. I'm only a fan of using a bigger carb if you install a bigger head with bigger intake and exaust ports . also a bigger manifold with a uni filter and a high flow exhaust. If I and others haven't had the success we've had , I would never push installing a bigger carb. But it seems as if these scoots can handle more air and fuel then we first thought. It would be nice to have the equipment to be able to test how much air and fuel these babies can handle, but that would be an expensive test. It seems a calculable problem. Let's think it through. What are we asking? volume and smallest opening of the carb hole, piston of x size, running at y rpm, something like that? |
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Belt wear
by: scooter - Jun 8, 2015 11:10:32 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Jun 8, 2015 11:10:32 GMT -5
I've been wanting to buy one like in the top pick. Those are pretty nice , but if I'm not mistaken they are a little pricey. Yep, $150  And it looks downright dangerous too.  |
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Belt wear
by: scooter - Jun 8, 2015 10:58:21 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Jun 8, 2015 10:58:21 GMT -5
Yes and its own little air box.
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Belt wear
by: scooter - Jun 8, 2015 10:02:57 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Jun 8, 2015 10:02:57 GMT -5
or water either. Mine has a washable foam element on it like a lawnmower would use.
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Post by scooter on Jun 8, 2015 7:07:26 GMT -5
Between looking like a large hairy toddler or a student of a Catholic school for homely girls. That's a tough one.
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Post by scooter on Jun 8, 2015 6:09:09 GMT -5
How hot should the variator get ? I'm sure a hot CVT is normal , but what would be too hot ? I have problems with glazed belts. I have a fanless drive face , but my CVT cover is opened up in a few places to allow some of the heat to escape. If I go on a short trip , my variator is still so hot that I cannot touch it , at least not for more then a second or so. Even wearing glove I cannot hold it all that long. Is this normal ? Its been like this since I can remember. They get pretty hot in stock configuration as well. I think a mod to intake more air into the CVT would be worth doing. |
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Post by scooter on May 28, 2015 15:15:45 GMT -5
How's everyone doing ? I recently just installed a 1500rpm main spring. I use to run a 2000 main , but with the new variator im using " k&s " it was too stiff. The 1500 rpm main may also be too stiff . I'm currently running 16 gram weights and my rpms are nearly reaching 8000 and the clutch pulley is not opening fully . I'm giving the 1.5k some time to break in and loosen up before I decide to take it out. Im also waiting on 17 gram weights just in case I need them. My scoot nearly pulls a wheely on takeoff. I actually pulled a nice one when I sat far back on the seat ,lol. When it comes to the ratings on these springs . I'm sure now that the rpm rating is compared to the stock . meaning , the 1k spring will start to open 1000 rpms after the stock would start to open . many thought that the stock main spring was the same as the 1k performance spring. However it seems as if this is not the case. Some also thought that maybe the stock main springs were possibly a 500 or 750 rpm rated spring. One thing I can say is that I would expect that the stock main spring would not start to open the same time the stock clutch springs engage . if it did , this would leave no room to run at the lowest gearing. I would expect the rpm rating of the main clutch spring to mean that a 1k performance spring will begin to open 1000 rpms after what a stock main spring would open, and so on with the 1.5k and 2000rpm main. Im not sure if we could even rate the stock main spring. We would have to see at what rpm the pulley begins to open , after the clutch engages. I'd imagine it would not begin to open until at least 1000 rpms after the clutch engages. Stock + 1000, 1500, 2000... That's what I was thinking too. I was also wondering how accurate this is considering the differences in variators from one manufacturer to another. |
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Post by scooter on May 28, 2015 15:11:33 GMT -5
I like your photo, Jarrett. Is that a long exposure and a flashlight or some photoshop work? Sorry for the long wait scooter yes that was a long exposure. i want to say it was f.8 at maybe twenty seconds. and the light is a cheap little led finger light from the dollar store. I didn't photoshop it, however there were some levels adjustments in Lightroom. Very cool. I would like to see a spiral "christmas tree" done like that. |
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PSI MAX.
