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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 21, 2015 23:16:06 GMT -5
check for compression.
remove plug and disconnect the coil from the CDI.
hold thumb over plug hole and crank engine.
you should feel the pressure as the engine comes up on the compression stroke.
make sure to disconnect the coil or you might get tangled with it and get shocked.
if you can't get compression then you have a bent valve stem, valves need replaced.
other possibilities, although unlikely are broken connecting rod or broken crank,
if you get compression then reassemble plug, coil, and CDI and check for correct timing.
this not only means aligning the timing marks, but also means to make sure the the pulse pickup and rotor are installed properly.
it's unlikely these components are installed incorrectly on a new scoot.
if this scoot was purchased second hand then you must assume every possibility.
if the compression and timing check out then proceed with the following:
remove fuel line from carb and plug it.
remove carb from intake.
pour some gas into a spray bottle, and give a squirt into intake while cranking.
i advise making sure of your electrical components, especially the CDI, coil, and plug.
a CDI will just flat out fail, it doesn't go "half bad".
coils on the other hand can have shorted turns, which will give a spark, but not enough under compression.
plugs can be improperly gaped and be of poor construction.
an iridium plug properly gaped will outlast your scoot, but they are pricey, i paid 12 bucks for mine.
if your ride still fails to start, and you have thoroughly checked the above, then you might have a grounded stator or some other ground that prevents the scoot from starting.
mine had a similar problem.
the starter would spin the engine over pretty good, and it acted like it wanted to start but it wouldn't.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 21, 2015 20:37:44 GMT -5
i'm new to the thread, so what problems are you having?
did you buy the scoot new from the factory or dealer or did you get it second hand.
correct me if i'm wrong but you can't get the scoot started, right?
a few questions:
1. does the engine have compression?
2. do you have the tools and knowledge to work on your ride?
in regards to (2) above, if i told you to isolate the stator, could you do it?
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 21, 2015 20:21:35 GMT -5
i don't know if i would use this particular product, but i certainly see the need for products like this.
as far as that goes, we already have products like this, for example, bondo and epoxy glue.
i've used epoxy glue to glue the window in the tray that raises my car window.
as far as scooter body panels go, i'm kind of like a hick or a mcgyver type.
i'll drill a few holes and use zip ties.
i've even used screws and copper wire.
put screws on both sides of the split, then "laced" them together with copper wire.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 21, 2015 15:55:15 GMT -5
one finer point in regards to safety is working on your ride.
this almost invariably requires you to use the centerstand, although the sidestand can be used in certain circumstances.
i'm sure that most of us likes, or needs, to rev the engine, but this presents problems with a scooter because the engine cannot be disengaged from the drive wheel except at, or just above, idle.
so, with that in mind, i offer the following tip:
when revving your engine, keep one foot on the centerstand ground peg, this will prevent the scoot from "hoppihg off" the stand and getting away from you.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 21, 2015 13:46:18 GMT -5
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 20, 2015 16:22:12 GMT -5
vacuum shutoff valves for 50cc engines shouldn't pose much of a problem.
mine never gave any problems.
the issue arises with 250cc engines, and probably 150cc too.
i simply had enough of the constant WOT then release.
twist fully open, then having to close the throttle.
finally tossed the vacuum valve and at first got an electrically operated pump.
i do not recommend a electrically operated pump.
i went to NAPA and got a manual valve for a briggs and stratton engine.
you need to be aware of shutting off the fuel EVERY TIME you get off your ride.
carb floats usually work pretty good at shutting off fuel flow, but sometimes they stick open.
combine that with a particular position of the combustion cycle and you can wind up with an engine full of gas.
i finally eliminated all of my vacuum lines except for the air cutoff valve.
i would have eliminated that one too but i didn't like my scoot back firing on closed throttle.
6 inches from fuel tank outlet to carb inlet is sufficient for constant fuel flow for a 250, even at WOT.
the reason i don't recommend an electrical pump is because of the pressure of the fuel.
i found this out the hard way.
i didn't get one of my band clamps tight enough and the fuel line to the carb blew off at speed.
my chines scoot just up and died, and there i am thinking "what now?"
so i park the ride, raised the seat, and started looking around, then finally noticed the stream of gas shooting out of the fuel line.
that could have been a very bad situation.
OTOH, some type of pump will be required for a tank below the carb inlet.
just be careful with an electric pump.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 20, 2015 3:37:07 GMT -5
NEVER drag your feet.... Your feet belong on the pegs or floorboards. doing this, putting a foot down, during a skills test will cost you your endorsement in indiana. you bring up a good point with the running wide topic. it's one of those odd aspects of 2 wheels that i don't fully understand. in a cage, you can simply turn the wheel sharper, but 2 wheels seems to negate that. any ideas why a biker runs wide? yes, i know a decreasing radius will cause it, but why can't a biker seem to correct for it? shifting winds can also cause it. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 20, 2015 3:13:27 GMT -5
post edited because the URL was wrong and i really don't feel like searching for it.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 20, 2015 3:00:49 GMT -5
It's all good. Order from Walmart's website and specify free shipping to the store closest to you. Then drive to the store and go to cust. service at the entrance - your belt will be waiting. Takes about a day. Free shipping! the problem i see with sources such as walmart is that they seldom offer any type of professional advice. the OP makes that clear. i suppose you could get it all sorted out by going from source to source, but why bother with all of that when you have dealers that specifically deal with our chinese products? i'll give walmart credit for their wide selection of merchandise, but i'm sure not going to ask them for scooter parts any time soon. most walmart stores that carry this specific item, the gates belt, probably have no idea it will fit a scooter. customer: i need a drive belt for a 244cc 172mm-A long case. walmart employee: huh? |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 19, 2015 16:11:36 GMT -5
People are in the mistaken belief that they have that right here in Florida however there is a big "IF" attached which is only "IF" mandatory minimum personal injury insurance is in place. Since many insurance companies here no longer honor PIP if your not wearing a helmet, jacket, long pants, gloves and boots then you can't legally go without a helmet. Even with a helmet if your missing the other required elements you can be denied PIP. People with a full health and injury personal health care policy are finding they also can be without coverage if they are not wearing their gear. in indiana, it's required to show proof of insurance to even get your license. on top of that, if you get this proof, then let it lapse, then that carrier will refuse you any more coverage. you can't get insurance with them anymore. helmet laws here are: if you have a MC permit, then you must wear a helmet. if you have the endorsement, you dont. mine hasn't saved my life yet, but it has kept me from getting seriously injured. a half face would have worked too, but a full face just provides a lot more protection. i can only imagine what it would feel like getting hit by a junebug at 65MPH with a fullface, you don't have to worry about your glasses being blown off by the wind, or grasshoppers, locusts, or anything else like that. it provides vital protection for your chin and throat. maybe i need to do the same. i always left mine on the floorboard, and it has always been there when i got back. it's odd that i think about it. i would chain up my ride, but leave my helmet vulnerable. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 19, 2015 15:51:48 GMT -5
Plus, their prices are lowest (and you can do free store pickup; no ship charge). i doubt if you can get free shipping from a website. the opening post was in reference to walmarts website, not to a physical store. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 19, 2015 15:48:57 GMT -5
I found some interesting advice on the web on removing cvt w/out impact wrench. the 244cc engine makes this process pretty easy. the variator on these engines have a sort of "cooling fin" arrangement around the outside circumference that enables you to use a piece of tire tread as a wedging device. you can use a breaker bar to remove the nut. a hammer might help if it's being difficult. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 19, 2015 6:33:08 GMT -5
quick draw.
edit:
quick reply (heh, heh)
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 19, 2015 6:20:31 GMT -5
triangles?
as far as i know, there are 3 replacable parts in the variator:
1. ramp plate, a big chunk of metal.
2. rollers or sliders, usually 6 or 8 of them.
3, ramp plate guides, usually 3.
the ramp plate doesn't get replaced unless you get a complete variator assembly, or you upgrade to performance parts.
the rollers or sliders get replaced when damaged, to idiot proof the replacement replace all of them at once with identical parts.
the guides get replaced when worn or broken.
replace the entire variator when the roller pocket retaining walls are damaged.
the belt gets replaced when it starts to show signs of fraying, or cracking, or goes below minimum specs on width.
be sure to grease the crank spindle and the variator journal before reinstalling variator on the engine.
also be absolutely certain that you keep all grease off the belt and variator faces, this includes handling with greasy fingers.
if in doubt about this, then install variator, then sponge all drive surfaces with a good degreaser.
i heard acetone works for this, but i used 70% isopropyl alcohol.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 19, 2015 3:05:08 GMT -5
i could never understand the "i have a right to not wear a helmet" mindset.
OTOH, i guess i would rather die than to be made a permanent vegetable.
i feel naked without mine, it's like i'm committing the mother of all sins if i ride without it.
a fullface will protect your head from all kinds of airborn nasties.
the only problem i ever had with mine was fogging in cold weather, but i found that opening the visor just a teeny bit prevented most of it.
the only other "problem" i had was a bee got in mine.
it crawled in there when i went into walmart.
talk about freaking out.
a simple check would have caught that though.
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