|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 17, 2017 4:59:41 GMT -5
I had "issues" with my electricals as well. I found the way around them was replacing the Chinese made connectors with ones made by Deutsch. (No more problems and they're built like a bank vault too.) any reason for that particular brand? i never did find the exact cause of my problems, but it was somewhere in the wiring. i bet a lot of it was my ignition switch. i couldn't redesign the tail light/turn signal section, so i just added extras. the dash gauges were set in molded styrofoam, and that was screwed to the handlebars. of course the little pegs that went to the handlebars broke, and that made the entire unit flop around. the gauges were all electronic LED and finally gave up. now, add to that a overheating problem that you could only go about 3 miles in 80F weather before it overheated. i kept at it though. actually it turned into a pretty decent ride, it didn't look all that good though. only after i been through the fire that i discover the PDI. i doubt if it would have made much difference, you would only be delaying the inevitable. don't get me wrong, my chinese 50cc was an angel, i sold it for the same price i gave for it. my chinese 250cc was a strong running engine, seldom did i go anywhere unless i was WOT.
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 16, 2017 14:17:34 GMT -5
Don't I know it DTF. Since I'm "mechanically inclined" I've rebuilt my scooter from the ground up. I know from where Rocky speaks, Chinese machines are slowly getting better, due to changing market patterns, (India) they have been forced to upgrade quality control. Hopefully they'll follow the well trod path of the Japanese, and improve quality and reliability to complete in a global market. i wrenched on mine so much, that i was able to put together a small toolkit that weighed about 3 to 5 pounds (excluding a 13 inch breakerbar). i strapped the breakerbar to the frame of the bike and carried the smaller parts in a waist pack. the pack contained the tools to remove every bolt and nut on the bike. overheating was the only real issue with the engine, although i did have a minor bendix problem with it. i discovered that % of my no start problems was electrical, not mechanical. when i first got it, i would never know if it would start, and i couldn't figure out why not. the electrics soon started to fall apart, and i rewired the entire bike. after the rewiring job, i didn't have any more no starts, except the mechanical kind which was few. when it was mechanical, it was associated with the fuel, carb, or intake. the question is, would i get another one. if the price was right, i probably would. but here again, i would be relying on my mechanical knowledge and my previous experience. chinese can be good rides, but only if you don't mind getting your hands dirty and parts dealers insist on quality parts.
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 15, 2017 21:00:01 GMT -5
If your an occasional rider or just like to tinker rolling the dice on a Chinese bike can work out but for reliable 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year transportation they many times will cost more than a used or even new bike thats made of more sturdy materials. it's really hard for me to classify all chines rides as "less quality". my 50cc never gave me a bit of problems, and i rode it almost every day. although i do have to admit, it left me stranded once, but that isn't really unusual. my 250 on the other hand was a beast to be reckoned with. i was beginning to wonder who would win, me or it. i finally got it tamed enough that i was fairly certain it could go cross country. then it just gave up. i debated expending any more time/effort in it, and there it sits. i'll have to agree with you. if you aren't mechanically inclined, then shop elsewhere. if you are, then chinese can be a viable alternative
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 13, 2017 8:25:19 GMT -5
I was strapped for cash and ended up even more strapped after dealing with the Znen. Three heads failed, bad gearbox, valve adjustments every month, oil changes twice a month, failed CDI, burnt out ignition pickup, defective clutch, weak variator worn out in 6,000 miles, 2 belts, failed muffler, headlamp burning out every 2 months, etc and the lost wages from being stuck on the side of the road and missing work on more than one occasion added up to costing more than just purchasing a new Aprilia when they were on sale for $2,999 at 0% interest. The Znen had 6,746.8 miles on it when I traded it in and cost me more than the past 30,000 miles on the Aprilia. The Znen kept taking back any savings I was getting by riding, to pay for parts, mechanics fees (needed a second opinion on all the head failures which ended up being poor quality casting) and time lost from work due to its poor quality. mine wasn't quite that bad. actually, the engine was pretty sound, only had minor problems with it. overheating was the only major problem with the engine, but it was caused from a poorly designed cooling system. i also had a bendix problem but i fixed that too. i bet that's what killed the motor, the bendix locked up engaging the starter. at least that's what it sounded like when it died. the rest of the bike though, especially the body panels and the electrics, talk about bottom of the pile stuff. it ran great though, it sounded good too. it came with 11 gram rollers and that gave me great acceleration from a dead stop, it would beat anything off the line. i guess they were 11 gram, i weighed the least damaged one. the other five were in little pieces. i switched to 20 gram rollers to to give me top end performance, but i was slower at getting off the line. thanks for the heads up, i'll keep a lookout for those shims.
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 13, 2017 4:15:02 GMT -5
Quote the full text instead of taking it out of context please. The comment about valve shims was a secondary comment and that was lead into with "To adjust the valves I just eyeball for when max gap between the rockers and valve stems exists and set them to spec unless the engine uses valve shims. When shims are involved I will verify the timing mark as I hate working with shims and want to be as accurate as possible..." i have no idea if the cf250 uses shims or not, i never seen any though. i don't even know what they are. i assume they would go between the valve stem and the rocker arm. my 250 was my first encounter with a chinese bike mechanically. that bike taught me everything i know about the step through twist and go design. lucky you. some of us are pretty strapped for cash. i'm hoping to get another one, maybe santa will get me one for christmas. [/quote]
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 11, 2017 23:42:49 GMT -5
Wait a second, I thought you said the scooter was in the back yard......Do you have more than one? it is in the back yard, and like i said, it ran strong until it choked. the estimated top speed was about 70mph with 20 gram rollers. no, i don't have another scooter, i can't seem to scrape up enough money for one. someone local had a helix for sale for 800 bucks, but it was gone by the time i came up with the money. i figured even if it didn't run i could get one bike out of it and my old one. scrappy has engines for my bike, but after sitting so long i would need other things too, like master cylinders and maybe even brake calipers. maybe i can tie a rope around the handlebars and get my brother-in-law to pull me down the street with me saying "VROOM VROOM".
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 11, 2017 21:07:40 GMT -5
Good idea. Mine was marked on the side but not on the very edge of flywheel, I filed a thin notch in it then painted it in bright red. Problem solved. i was thinking about the crank on the variator side. this would make it uber easy to get TDC. i haven't had any timing problems with my cf250, although i did set the valves a couple of times. it was a healthy engine that ran strong up until the day it choked, as far as the timing chain goes, you would still need to remove the valve cover to determine if you are at firing TDC. you would need to remove the cover anyway to get to the cam.
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 11, 2017 10:30:00 GMT -5
To set the timing chain back in place you need to find the True TDC. i think he can get it done by aligning the pickup on the stator with the rotor. but he would have to remove the valve cover to make sure he was at spark TDC. the CF250 doesn't use shims. both rocker arms are in the valve cover, and i haven't seen anything that looked like a shim. got ya beat, i've been wrenching on a chinese ride for about 5 or 6 years. i wouldn't trade that experience for anything. WAAAA, I WANT MY BIKE, I WANT MY BIKE [img style="max-width:100%;" src="
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 10, 2017 23:26:46 GMT -5
can you determine TDC by the alignment of the stator pickup? don't forget, these scooters utilize the "wasted spark" scheme, so you might have to remove the valve cover to make sure you are at spark TDC, not end of exhaust TDC when aligned properly, notch the crank on the variator side for future reference.
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 10, 2017 16:11:46 GMT -5
Why can't you remove the timing check plug and use the timing marks? Its the easiest and most accurate way to go to pull the access plug on the flywheel cover and align the marks. have you tried this method? the timing hole is on the right side of the engine, but you must be on the left side to turn the crank. it was impossible for me. i got so fed up with it, i had to just "guess" when TDC was reached. i removed the plug, held my thumb over the hole, and turned the crank until i felt compression. i then gave the crank an extra 1/4 to 1/3 turn more. like i said, it's a guess, but apparently close enough to set the valves. if you ever do find the true TDC, then notch the end of the crank with a file. if setting the valves is your goal, then the following is even better: remove the valve cover. rotate crank until the rocker arms are on the low part of the cam (both rocker arms). replace valve cover. set valves. you don't need TDC, just make sure both valves are closed.
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 6, 2017 12:26:33 GMT -5
so i just noticed the oil filter screen was upside down the filter was at the bottom of the spring instead of the top. i have a 250 and the filter, spring, plug, assembly is: filter goes in first, open end toward the engine. spring goes in next, widest end towards the engine. the plug is then screwed in by hand until it stops, and then given an 1/8 turn. (more or less) make sure you spread a little oil on the plug seal before assembly.
|
|
|
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 5, 2017 8:50:47 GMT -5
If there is a lot of blow by the crank seal behind the Variator can get blown out. this would indicate a blow-by vent hose is plugged somehow. oil or grease on friction surfaces causes them to glaze. i've heard that once this happens, the pads (brake or clutch) must be replaced, they CANNOT be sanded down and reused.
|
|
|
my bike
by: dollartwentyfive - Feb 1, 2017 21:44:26 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 1, 2017 21:44:26 GMT -5
[ I have added a set of old shock absorbers to the bottom of the seat. Where it is attaches to the bike... sincw hitting a bump on that bike is..... life altering to say the least not surprising since you only have, at most, 2" of rubber between the road and the rim. i would imagine you suffered a few bent, or broken, rims too. flat tires on these types of bikes are probably pretty common. one other thing, try not to ride it on sidewalks. this isn't out of respect for pedestrians, but for your safety. ride on the sidewalk, come to an intersection, then blow right through it. it's easy to do, and it can be deadly. a 45 MPH bicycle, sounds almost as fun as my 250.
|
|
|
my bike
by: dollartwentyfive - Jan 29, 2017 12:36:30 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 29, 2017 12:36:30 GMT -5
spandi, i'm not sure what's wrong with it. something in the engine let go when i was cruising at around 60mph. the bike immediately ground to a halt. i tried a couple of times to start it, but the engine wouldn't turn over, it was locked up.
it was starting to get cold outside, so i covered it, and it sit there since. as much as i loved my ride, i was hesitant to put any more effort into keeping it road worthy. i wouldn't trade my chinese experience for anything, because i've learned a great deal about scooters from it.
it's been 3 years and the weeds have gotten up into the frame and i'm not too confident that it would be worth it to get it back on the road.
the local newspaper had a late model burgman advertised for 2 grand. it was sold before i even got the paper. i'll get another one, it's a matter of when.
|
|
|
engine codes
by: dollartwentyfive - Jan 26, 2017 22:59:50 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 26, 2017 22:59:50 GMT -5
somebody says that they have this engine: 1PE40QMB what do they have? let's break it down: the first number (1) is the number of cylinders. second letter ) is the layout: blank=vertical V= v-type P=horizontal third letter (E), operation: blank=4 stroke E=2 stroke next 2 numbers (40) bore size in MM. next letter (Q) cooling: blank=water F=natural air Q=forced air Y=oil next letter (M) engine use: M=motorcycle A=automobile next letter (B) engine size: A<50, B=50, C=60, D=70, E=80, F= , G=100, H=110, I=125, J=150, K=175, L=200 M=250, N=300, P=350, Q=400, R=500, S=600, T=650, U=700, V=750, W=800 X=900, Y=1000, YG=1100, YL>1200 now someone says they have a 172MM engine. 1 is the cylinders, there is no layout, operation, or cooling codes, 72 is bore size. the 172MM engine is the vertical, water cooled, 4 stroke, honda 244cc
|
|