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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 4, 2017 21:37:00 GMT -5
i know little of the history of the scooter other than it ran up until about 6 months ago when it blew the belt. for some reason they took the 80cc kit it had off and tried to use it on another scooter but failed as they dident have the gaskets. this engine sat open for an un determined amount of time. when i built it i cleaned out as much as i could reach inside put a new 80cc kit on and then drained the oil in it it looked bad i flushed a half a quart through it because it was all i had extra then filled it up and rode it 12 miles home. it currently lives inside today i decided to drain the 12 mile oil and found many metal fragments most of them caught in the filter screen as well as the oil looked sparkly. can the new rings and piston be causing this? the engine did not knock after building it. im planning to flush it out as best as i can how worried should i be? i can have the engine with the im guessing broken key on the flywheel witch was a built motor up until 1 week ago it just did not run due to the timing being off.
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Post by cyborg55 on Feb 4, 2017 22:00:25 GMT -5
Metal chunks and silvery oil is not s good sign at all,,, it it were mine I'd tear it down but that's me
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Post by pistonguy on Feb 4, 2017 22:01:38 GMT -5
Nah, ya won't get that much trash from a new piston, ring and cyl, assembly.
Most always going to find some trash if ya look for it in the oil. thee is no real filter to take it out,
I wouldnt be too concerned, if it aint broke don't fix it!
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Post by pistonguy on Feb 4, 2017 22:05:00 GMT -5
Metal chunks and silvery oil is not s good sign at all,,, it it were mine I'd tear it down but that's me get the heck out Borg, ya holeshoted me one minute, We are both anal when it comes to motors etc. I always see some shinees stuff in my oil as I look thru it with a magnifying glass on white paper towel. |
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 5, 2017 8:01:44 GMT -5
the unfortunate deal is that i wont be able to ride it around for a while as i have it inside my basement torn apart awaiting more parts in the mail. there was about 4 metal bits in the screen and like 2 or 3 more that came out in the oil not very big but big enough to notice and the oil was silvery looking. the oil that came out was nasty looking when i did the first oil change in my possession thus the reason why i drained it again after 12 miles of riding. i can say there was no play in the connecting rod when i built it. im thinking im going to get the other engine for a just in case scenario and run this one until it ither pops or stops giving me metal in the oil. i will obviously flush out the engine as best as possible. as it sits right now i left it draining overnight so today ill fill it up as full as i possibly can pull spark plug wire off rotate the engine a few times and drain it ill probably do this a few times or until i stop seeing metal then hope my issues are over.
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 5, 2017 9:23:02 GMT -5
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Post by cyborg55 on Feb 5, 2017 9:55:33 GMT -5
It's a call here toker,,if you don't mind running it till it frags ,,I'd have the "other mill" waiting cause you're gonna need it,,,I've had a piece or two in filters before with new mills and chalked it up to machinging swarf but no silver oil came out,,,I'd be really suspect of metallic oil
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 5, 2017 10:00:17 GMT -5
filled it again cranked it a bit and drained it this is the results of that i also wiped clean the tray so everything in the tray is what came out.  and this was in the filter  |
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Post by rockynv on Feb 5, 2017 10:08:54 GMT -5
There is always some slag that loosens when you put in a new cylinder kit unless you really soak it and flush it out in parts cleaner before installing it. You can even find curly shavings caught up in the screen on the first oil change on a factory fresh engine. Many times I will overfill an old engine of unknown history with diesel fuel or kerosene and let it sit a week or so before I start in on it to aid in flushing it out before hand. You may want to flush it out with parts cleaner another time or diesel which will probably be cheaper at $2.36 a gallon. Then change the oil in a another 20 miles and if it looks good do it again in another 100 after which go to a more normal oil change schedule. How tight was the piston when you put it in and did you coat all moving parts with an assembly oil when putting it all back together? Some do not realize that assembly oil is used to aid in the break-in/run-in of new parts going a long way to prevent scuffing as parts mate up. Its not expensive at less than $7 a bottle and very cheap insurance considering that one bottle should last through a dozen or so small engine rebuilds. What you are seeing could be build up of particles in the sump from the last persons failed attempt. You may need to take out the screen and oil drain plug so everything will flush though in a rush when you pour a gallon of diesel through to get all the residual flushed out.  www.permatex.com/products/lubricants/specialty-lubricants/permatex-ultra-slick-engine-assembly-lube/ |
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 5, 2017 10:16:51 GMT -5
i did coat both the cylinder and piston/rings with oil before assembling them. the piston felt normal when going in it wasent extremely tight but had a bit of resistance going in.i actually have been using an engine cleaner product we got free from work for selling more than any other store int he first month of having the product and ive been using that to flush it. i can say that the cam chain was really tight on the assembly but the tensioner did click out when i put the spring in it i think it was 3 or 4 clicks. there was no play in the connecting rod during assembly i did check that as well.
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 5, 2017 10:32:57 GMT -5
results from next flush  and from the filter  |
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 5, 2017 21:03:50 GMT -5
so i just noticed the oil filter screen was upside down the filter was at the bottom of the spring instead of the top. not sure how long it was like this but that's how it was when i changed the oil before i took it home and i just dident notice it was backwards till now as i was looking through the gy6 manual i have on my pc.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Feb 6, 2017 12:26:33 GMT -5
so i just noticed the oil filter screen was upside down the filter was at the bottom of the spring instead of the top. i have a 250 and the filter, spring, plug, assembly is: filter goes in first, open end toward the engine. spring goes in next, widest end towards the engine. the plug is then screwed in by hand until it stops, and then given an 1/8 turn. (more or less) make sure you spread a little oil on the plug seal before assembly. |
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