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Post by tvnacman on Nov 18, 2014 13:44:51 GMT -5
ok , I need some details here , when you used the black wire to power the relay (tell me what you did) ?
John
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 18, 2014 11:52:41 GMT -5
ok you have 4 wires on your ignition switch , red black green black/white .
the brown is switched power when your kill switch is in the run position and the key switch is in the run position , are you getting any lights ?
here is the deal fuse off the battery + red wire splits to the regulators red and the ignition switch red , when the key is in the run position , the power crosses from the red to the black(could be brown) the black dips into the harness and will connect to brown .
Check the the voltage at the plug by the harness , it will be a larger plug (ground ,running brake left and right turn signal ) do you have a licence plate light or a clear lens area under the tail light ?
When you fed 12vdc to the brown did anything come alive ?
I assume that because you have a 3 phase system your not using acv off a yellow from the stator to power anything . We need to be sure of this ohm all 3 yellows to ground with the regulator unplugged .
I know I'm all over the place here try to answer all the questions as best as you can , working without a diagram here .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 18, 2014 10:26:21 GMT -5
Ok...I have continuity from the white wire on the harness to the white wire on the fuel enrichener. I did connect the 12v from the battery to the white wire and got no lights or relays clicking...however I have disconnected the headlights and installed HID's which are directly connected via a relay to the battery..so perhaps thats why no lights....however no taillights either. Do you think I can connect the black wire on the new relay to the white wire on the harness? no on the black wire !!!!! Does your electric start work as it should ? pull either brake press the start button and it cranks ? What if you hit the start button will the starter crank ? As far as the rear running light , could it be a bulb , did you check the bulb , did you check for power ? John |
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 18, 2014 3:22:19 GMT -5
well I have a stock 150cc with a pod air filter and free flow exhaust , I use it in the cold weather so to aid in cold start ups I installed a 40 pilot jet I get some engine break up in the upper rpm about 7k I have a 115 main jet I was thinking of dropping in the 120 or 125 main jet and see what happens , I'm using a Keihin 24mm CVK . What are your thoughts ? John I would like to see the results with a 26mm carb and the 115 main . the 26mm will pull more fuel through the 115 then the 24mm carb. I would stick with whatever pilot that the 26mm carb comes with . a 125 main with the 24 mm carb will prob be to rich for the stock bore and stock head . but the extra air flow the 26mm carb will allow should match the extra fuel it will pull with the 115. I have read this several times , it seems just not right . I'm going to step outside the box here for a moment . I'm going to apply some hydronics theory here . They say that the max flow of water through a 3/4" pipe is 8.5 GPM (gallon Per Minute) . The point I going for here is if you take two carbs one with a 26mm and the other with a 24mm throte what did we change if they both have a 115 jet ? Remember we changed the throte size not the jet size . I think we just increased the amount of air while the fuel flow rate stayed the same . I would think you can pass more air through a larger opening . The flip side here might be the larger carb will have a larger pilot jet , do we know this for certain ? Doesn't the pilot jet drop out when the butterfly is opened ? What do you guys think ? Have I gone off the deep end here ? John |
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 18, 2014 2:32:14 GMT -5
I have done this a while ago still have the "T" caped off in the system I don't remember the numbers . I tinkered with it for a long time to get the highest vac I could .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 17, 2014 19:49:00 GMT -5
I don't know what regulator you have , but I can tell you what my regulators and wires are for . The 3 phase 7pin/wire the white wire outputs 12vdc only the engine is running . The black goes to switched power (senses system voltage and adjusts regulator output ). Green is ground .The red goes to the battery for charging . 3 yellows are ac input from the stator .
the 6pin is absent of the white the 5 pin is absent of the black and white .
I would unplug the regulator and check for continuity from the white wire on the harness side to the enrichener , I would also send 12vdc via the white wire and listen for any relays clicking or any lights illuminating .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 17, 2014 17:38:47 GMT -5
did the stock regulator have a white and no black ?
I was trick or treating when this thread popped up . I never saw it .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 16, 2014 14:51:58 GMT -5
Thank you guys this is such a better option then the epoxy. I actually have a bunch of thread taps, I just need to find the right size and a new stud/nut. What is the 10mm studs for 150cc heads? I used the stock studs and its a 139qmb engine so I assume those are 6mm? And all that means I should get the 8mm studs then i'm guessing and i'll have to call around see whos got these parts but thanks again alleyoop your like an encyclopedia of scooter knowledge. Encyclopediaoop |
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 15, 2014 12:06:23 GMT -5
I have had a passenger a few times , I kinda think you may have some damage from the accident and it might be a good idea to have someone else have a a close look at it . I had a very minor wiggle in turns on my scooter , then found an upper motor mounting bolt at the frame missing . The symptom was very minor but the defect was major , could have caused my engine and rear wheel to disconnect from the frame .
Air on the side of safety .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 15, 2014 11:53:04 GMT -5
Most headlights on China scoots are ran through the ac system not off of the battery . unless u have a DC setup u should be able to start the scoot and disconnect the battery and still have normal functioning headlights . This is kinda an old thread so I hope its taking care of by now . They will still function but they are half as bright when your scoot's lights are running straight off the stater instead of a good battery on both my scooters AC and DC fired both times I am barely visible at night when my battery is dead I even got a warning one day for not using my blinkers even though I did it's just you couldn't see them they were not bright enough. don't play with headlights . It is a real safety issue . get the lights bright and working . John |
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 14, 2014 23:15:12 GMT -5
I'd love to be able to ride all year round . I'm really considering buying a heated jacket and gloves. They have some that use rechargeable battery packs . some are very expensive but I saw a kobalt jacket for around 100 bucks after shipping , and a cheap set of gloves on eBay . I bought the gerbing heated gloves , when not using the electric heat they are still the best pair of gloves I have ever owned . John |
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 14, 2014 18:52:27 GMT -5
well I have a stock 150cc with a pod air filter and free flow exhaust , I use it in the cold weather so to aid in cold start ups I installed a 40 pilot jet I get some engine break up in the upper rpm about 7k I have a 115 main jet I was thinking of dropping in the 120 or 125 main jet and see what happens , I'm using a Keihin 24mm CVK . What are your thoughts ?
John
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 14, 2014 16:11:40 GMT -5
i use this on my scooter 125wattJohn |
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 13, 2014 19:10:32 GMT -5
not wearing a full face in the cold is foolish .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Nov 13, 2014 19:05:51 GMT -5
fog it out with marvel mystery oil , I use Lucas oil additive during the extream temps in the summer .
John
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