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Post by retrobrian on Apr 12, 2015 19:52:03 GMT -5
yes...it is fixed. i think it was the fluid
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Freshman Rider
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Post by retrobrian on Apr 12, 2015 10:46:05 GMT -5
OK finally had some time to work on the brakes. Took the whole thing apart and drained the system. Calipers and pads were good. Looks like there was some dirt in the fluid. And the fluid was discolored. Thinking maybe bad Chinese fluid. This was a little expensive since I went and bought a vacuum bleeder to replace the fluid. $24 at Harbor Freight.
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Freshman Rider
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Post by retrobrian on Mar 15, 2015 12:16:07 GMT -5
Have you checked your brake line to ensure you don't have a qink or twist in the line? Something is causing the pressure of your brake fluid to build without reaching the front system. That would explain the hard brake handle without transferring to stopping power. If the line is good, the next step would be to bleed the line of old fluid to try and fix the problem. i'll check |
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Freshman Rider
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Post by retrobrian on Mar 15, 2015 12:14:55 GMT -5
nothing... looking for ideas what may be causing it... bad fluid?...bad cylinder
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Post by retrobrian on Mar 15, 2015 12:01:33 GMT -5
1100 miles and no srvice. ive had the scoot for a year. it does have what is called Anti lock
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Freshman Rider
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Post by retrobrian on Mar 15, 2015 11:20:33 GMT -5
So yesterday it was  + degrees in San Diego so I wanted to spend the day on the Scooter. I live inland and decided to work my way to the coast. Avoiding the highways... its 25 miles each way. About half way into the ride, the front hydraulic brake lever got real hard to pull and I lost a lot of the front braking. The lever would only move a couple millimeters. Now it sat all night and is still hard to squeeze. Any ideas? |
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Freshman Rider
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Post by retrobrian on Mar 14, 2015 10:17:49 GMT -5
I bought the cdi and cable off ebay. The hoses from Autozone. Tuning the carb was instructions from Alleyoop
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Freshman Rider
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Post by retrobrian on Mar 13, 2015 12:06:34 GMT -5
I have the BMS Chelsea 150. same engine. The scoot def runs lean. the only mods I have done is ....change out the fuel and vac lines... drilled out the air/fuel mix screw (best mod to date) to richen the mix... and a new coil/cdi. At 1000 miles I adjusted the valves... really didnt need it. Scoot runs great every time!
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Post by retrobrian on Dec 30, 2014 12:17:34 GMT -5
Here in California, driving without an endorsement would get your scoot impounded...possibly for 30 days, which would make it not worth retrieving. Also ...any insurance you have really isnt worth the paper its written on.
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Post by retrobrian on Dec 29, 2014 11:04:53 GMT -5
I too am in San Diego and find the enricher ness. for the initial start. If yours is going to 4000 rpm... im guessing your scoot is out of tune. mine goes up to about 2200 rpm for about 30-40 seconds...then drops off
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Freshman Rider
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Post by retrobrian on Oct 14, 2014 10:45:41 GMT -5
This applies more so on your motorcycle. I have been riding motorcycles for about 30 years. I too started thinking that you brake as if you are on a bicycle. Then I started riding professionally ( police motor cop ). I was sent to some incredible schools to learn how to ride with emphasis on collision avoidance. Almost all braking is done with the front. We were taught to just rest your foot against the rear foot pedal. Th inertial from applying the front brake will start to apply pressure to the rear. You can apply more pressure to assist if and when needed. Now that is for a faster stop. So in reality they were actually teaching closer to a 80/20.
Applying only or more rear brake can cause your rear to slide out and down you go. You can not scrub off enough speed that way. Think about it... you get much better disc brakes on the front.and drums on the rear. Drum brake system are lousy. My 2013 BMS even has some kind of anti-lock system on the front. Dont plan on testing it though.
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Post by retrobrian on Oct 12, 2014 11:27:01 GMT -5
As with any motorcycle, rears should last at least twice as long as the fronts. Braking on a bike should be about 70% front 30% or less rear.
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Post by retrobrian on Oct 10, 2014 14:39:09 GMT -5
I just did the 3rd oil change on my scoot since new. It has 850 miles on the odo. The oil is always clean and so was the screen on the first two. This time there was some "grit" on the screen and in the plug too. Im assuming it is metal shavings stuck together. No chunks or anything. It pulverizes between my fingers. But how much is normal?
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Post by retrobrian on Oct 10, 2014 14:31:48 GMT -5
and dont be an idiot like me and hold the carb while drilling or , like me, you will get the bit in the palm of your hand when it slips. Dang that hurt
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Freshman Rider
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Break in done.
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Joined: Jan 26, 2014 23:57:50 GMT -5
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Post by retrobrian on Oct 8, 2014 11:47:34 GMT -5
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+ degrees in San Diego so I wanted to spend the day on the Scooter. I live inland and decided to work my way to the coast. Avoiding the highways... its 25 miles each way. About half way into the ride, the front hydraulic brake lever got real hard to pull and I lost a lot of the front braking. The lever would only move a couple millimeters. Now it sat all night and is still hard to squeeze. Any ideas?