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Post by JerryScript on Nov 10, 2015 15:45:30 GMT -5
Yes, it is the extra long case made for 16" wheels.
No harm done on posting, we moved it to the proper section. This isn't an issue to get worked up over.
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 10, 2015 15:41:45 GMT -5
Really stubborn screws come out pretty easily with a socket driver. They allow you to press down and use the ratchet handle as a cheater bar. A bit of penetrating oil and I've never failed to get one out.
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 8, 2015 19:07:16 GMT -5
If the tail light itself is busted and not just the lense, that can prevent starting on many models, not sure about the atm50.
By AC I meant alternating current. Most scooters are AC, some are DC. On most but not all, you can tell by turning the ignition on, if the headlight comes on before starting the scooter, it's usually DC (meaning most components run off the battery). If the headlight only comes on when the engine is running, it's usually an AC system. Most AC scooters can be kickstarted and run with no battery.
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 8, 2015 19:02:10 GMT -5
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 8, 2015 12:56:28 GMT -5
You can do it without pulling the jug, but you may have leakage around the base gasket since you wouldn't be able to replace it.
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 8, 2015 10:05:21 GMT -5
Yep, thanks for catching that, 7ah.
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 8, 2015 0:39:12 GMT -5
That's a good age to replace the battery, and the symptoms say it's time. You can get it load tested to see if it needs replacing at most auto parts stores.
That turn signal relay could be bleeding juice. Does it get hot?
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 8, 2015 0:31:40 GMT -5
A neighbor kid found a scooter, a mini-bike, in the woods. He called the police to report it, and a patrol car came out soon after, but the cop said that since it didn't have a VIN, they weren't really interested, implied he could have it, and left without it. I offered to help him fix it up. (It's missing some parts and others are broken) I found manuals and downloaded them. I hope you can help us. It's a Taotao ATM50, blue. 1) Does the bike have a VIN? None of us could find it, including the cop. 2) Will it start and run without a battery? 3) Do I want a lead acid or a sealed lead acid battery? The latter is a gel, right, and that doesn't have enough output? 4) No key for the gas cap. Do you think I can pick the gas cap lock or get it out somehow without a drill? 5) Where is the emergency Engine Stop switch? 6) The instructions say to keep one's hand on the brake when starting it. Is that only because something not standard might make the engine race, which would put it in gear? Thanks a lot for any help you can give us. I meant to call myself MickATM50, but used 10 instead and now I can't change it! Welcome to the forums, and kudos for helping get this project running! We will help all we can. The ATM50 is a very common model, and all parts are easy to find. 1) the vin is usually located on the main front frame member, there is often a rectangular piece in the body panel that can be removed to show it. 2) It may start and run without a battery if it's an AC system. 3) A standard lead acid battery will do fine, at least 7cca 4) Do not attempt to drill the gas cap lock, sparks and gas don't play nice!!! If a screwdriver jammed into it won't turn it, take it to a locksmith for safety (empty tank is not safe, fumes ignite, not fuel) 5) The emergency kill switch is on the right handlebar, it's usually a red switch that slides 6) The brake does have to be pulled while starting, it completes the starter circuit (some models have a side-stand kill switch, only allowing it to start when up). Hold the brake lever in and either press the starter button, or kick the kickstarter. You'll need to flush the fuel system, and take apart the carb and clean it. Let us know how it goes. |
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 8, 2015 0:16:10 GMT -5
Very nice! Love the ghost skulls!
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 6, 2015 22:24:47 GMT -5
Those 9g rollers are spinning your engine out too soon. Try 7-8g sliders, you'll keep your acceleration, and I'll bet find that missing speed increase. And yes, a larger performance variator is a good idea.
Beyond that, you'll have to change the final drive gears to gain more.
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 6, 2015 22:20:56 GMT -5
Hey Everybody, RCQ provided me a link to this thread so I thought I would just stop in and say hi to everyone and say what an awesome thread this is....I've been very busy with work and haven't had much time to visit other forums and don't know how soon I'll check back in, but if anyone has any questions, you can find a link to my forum by clicking on the friends list here at it'stheride... Or, you can send me a personal message on this forum, I will get a notification in my email. In case you haven't realized by my handle, I am Dan Martin, owner of Martin Mopeds LLC, the person who assembled RCQ's engine. This engine was a fun build.... I build a lot GY6's, but Taida's are always the coolest. Good to hear from you Dan, great job on this build! |
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 6, 2015 9:51:24 GMT -5
Another reason to not ride in the center of the lane. Glad you kept it upright, I bet your heart still races when you think about it!
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 5, 2015 15:33:54 GMT -5
If the muffler was gutted, that would be a reason to upjet.
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 5, 2015 13:05:16 GMT -5
Sounds like you need to upjet the carb.
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 5, 2015 3:21:45 GMT -5
Nice ride.   Swap out a few body panels, and it's the same as my Znen ZN150T-18, the blue scooter in my sig below with 16" wheels. Makes me wonder how big I could swap up to and still fit the engine in my frame!? |
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