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Post by phssthpok on Dec 23, 2013 11:29:31 GMT -5
...even that is still hard to see . If you put the video on full screen you can see the "F" mark on the flywheel . John I was thinking the same thing when I saw your video. First thing that came to mind was "I bet if he took a black sharpie to the flywheel right next to the 'F', the mark would jump right out and smack you in the face!" |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 22, 2013 9:11:01 GMT -5
...you have a bigger carb which allows more fuel with a smaller jet. Can you maybe explain the physics of this? It's not making any kind of logical sense to me. You are claiming that a smaller jet is able to pass more fuel? What majik be this?  If I'm not mistaken the numbers on any given jet are generally a reflection of the actual physical size of the opening. A 112 jet pulled from a smaller carburetor, and installed in a larger carburetor is still only physically able to flow as much fuel as will pass through the opening, but the larger carb is capable of flowing much more air resulting in a lean condition (all else being equal). Going even smaller would exacerbate the condition. What am I missing here?  |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 21, 2013 16:06:50 GMT -5
I hope I don't blow my engine removing the fan cover to get it on video . John I presume you mean to remove the fan assembly in order to film the timing marks while the engine is running and changing RPM? If you have an electric leaf blower (or reversible vacuum cleaner) you could direct the output over the engine... some air movement is really all you need and either arrangement should provide more than enough. |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 21, 2013 15:11:19 GMT -5
In such a situation it is not beyond the realm of possibility for the engineers to incorporate a permanent physical advance in the timing of the magnet passing under the pick-up, and having the CDI incorporate an electronic 'delay' in sending spark signal out at lower RPM. Conversely, the CDI would, at higher RPM, reduce the delay in passing along the signal resulting, in effect, in 'advanced' timing (read: 'not delayed') over lower RPM.
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 21, 2013 10:51:48 GMT -5
If I was going to buy an air compressor and impact wrench, what would the recommended psi and everything I should buy? Or should I buy an electric one? Someone please guide me before purchasing one so I don't buy one that can't even take the clutch/variator bolts off.. The compressor I used is actually quite small... about the smallest you can get with an air tank attached to it I think...2 gallons. (It's very similar to this one, but not CH brand) As long as it will fill the tank to a minimum of  PSI you should be good to go for an impact. You won't have much 'trigger time' with a small unit like mine...after about two or three seconds the air pressure drops off enough that you're not getting 'full impact'... but mine was sufficient to do the job (barely). If you're serious about equipping a garage for automotive work in the future, I wouldn't settle for anything less than a 5 gallon tank *BARE MINIMUM*, preferably something 10gal+. Those compressors ranging from 2-5 gallons are great for smaller projects...air staplers/finish nailers, light sanding, air brushing, die-grinding...that sort of thing. Most full-on automotive type air tools require large volumes of air 'at pressure' to perform properly. |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 20, 2013 22:51:55 GMT -5
Sorry to sound stupid but I couldn't figure out how to get to the arm inside the tank. :/ What does it look like? Thank you is a photo of the tank (removed from the chassis). The opening on the left is the filler neck. The opening on the right (with the three 'ridges' around it) is where the sending unit fits in. (looks like a 'twist-lock' to me...not screws.) You will have to remove the seat-tub to access the sending unit assembly. HERE is a photo of the fuel sending unit/float arm assembly (removed from the tank). The arm (metal wire thingummy) should move freely up and down. The float (black 'cylinder' at the end of the arm should be intact (if I'm not mistaken it's closed cell foam and shouldn't suffer from leaking internally, or saturation). |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 20, 2013 15:45:55 GMT -5
Based on the title alone I was going to point you to that video. I just changed out my clutch a couple days ago, and fully intended to use that method. Unfortunately, I couldn't find my big 15" 'multiple sixteenths' wrench, and all my 12'' were just a titch too small. I wound up having to use the bench vise and a strap wrench. It was actually a lot easier then I anticipated. For the compressing part (to keep the spring from going 'splody when the nut is removed), rather than trying to stand on it and bend over, I placed the round box-ends of my two largest wrenches on either side and kneeled on the wrenches. Worked a treat! (though I'd suggest a couple of 2x4's instead...the wrenches were a bit 'slippery' on the clutch and a 2x4 has a broader surface to rest the knees on)  |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 18, 2013 22:23:30 GMT -5
This one. Apparently I did get a 'performance' unit...to be honest I was just looking for the least expensive clutch I could find. $35 and free shipping fit the bill. In the photo you can see blue springs. I didn't examine the springs closely, but they looked black on mine...though it's possible they were a very dark blue. All in all, I'd have to say I'm 'satisfied' (so far) with the item. The pads themselves seem to be a touch shorter from end to end than the stock unit, as well as about 1/3 less thick, but fit and function seems to be just fine.
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 18, 2013 20:28:41 GMT -5
Good Job, If there is still some wheel spinning get 1000 rated clutch springs and that will let the motor idle nice at low rpms without the clutch engaging the bell. The OEM clutch springs are rated at around 700-800. Alleyoop After the test ride (and everything got good and warmed/limbered up) I put it up on the stand to see how it was holding. Idle had increased to just under 2000, but there was ZERO movement in the rear wheel. ZERO...not even the 'residual drag' stuff. .  I still need to futz with the idle settings though...I didn't have time (to do it right) after the test ride. I don't know what the springs in the new clutch are supposed to be rated at, but I didn't opt for any kind of 'performance' unit or springs. Regardless... the clutch arms seem to engage at around 3000rpm (it's kind of hard to get more exact than that as I can't watch both the wheel and the tach at the same time ). As it stands now I'm happy with it's engagement point though, so I'm not gunna futz with it. Unfortunately, I tried to ride my wave of good-wrenching-luck and figure out where the slow leak in my front tire was. I traced to the valve stem (still the factory unit), and the center brass tube blew out as I was examining it. So now I get to fiddle-fart around with replacing the valve stems (yes...I'm doing both), but apparently we don't actually have the C-clamp I seem to recall stumbling over constantly ('cause I sure as can't find it now that I need it!  ). *Le Sigh* such is life...  |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 17, 2013 21:17:18 GMT -5
I got lost after this. Could you please explain on how to do this? High RPM: Check also the automatic enricher servo. If it's stuck in the 'on' position, and you have a vacuum leak in the manifold, it's plausible that such conditions could result in the high 'idle'. The auto-enrich servo is similar to an electric choke only rather than cutting off air flow ahead of the venturi (or fuel metering jets in this case) like on a car, it opens a fuel passage to allow extra fuel into the manifold BEHIND the throttle blade, to aid in cold running conditions. It is located on the drive-belt side of the carburetor, and usually has a somewhat shiny back plastic cover on it with a couple of wires coming out. This is an electric 'plunger' servo, that should shut off (retract) when the engine reaches operating temperature. If this is faulty, then the servo remains 'engaged' and constantly adding extra fuel. Under normal conditions this would result in idling problems as the engine 'floods out'. You would need to have a corresponding vacuum leak for this condition to result in sustained high RPM. The vacuum actuated petcock is essentially a 'dash pot' assembly used to open and close a fuel flow valve. When vacuum is applied to one side of the diaphragm, the valve on the other side of the diaphragm is opened allowing fuel to flow (a weak spring is used to press on the diaphragm and keep the valve closed when there is not enough vacuum present). If the diaphragm fails, then fuel could (probably would) be sucked past the diaphragm into the vacuum line, and then on down to the manifold where, again, you'd need a corresponding vacuum leak to supply enough air for sustained operation lest the engine flood out. |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 17, 2013 20:51:30 GMT -5
Are you thinking of THIS? That bushing (they call it a washer) prevents the drive faces from completely closing. removing it allows for additional movement, resulting in the belt riding higher in the pulley. My 150cc does not have such a bushing on the shaft. Since the variator is free sliding on the shaft, shortening it should have zero effect on how 'close' the drive faces are able to come together. Ideally their faces will make contact at their narrowest point (down near the shaft) when fully extended. The only thing I can think of that would prevent this would be the purported difference between sliders and rollers (where rollers are supposedly not able to FULLY open or close the variator, owing to their round shape, whereas the wedge shaped sliders are). If this is the case (roller not making full use of the ramps in the variator), then I suppose shortening the bushing (allowing the outer drive face to sit closer to the variator to begin with) would be one way to close the gap...but it's much cheaper and easier to simply install wedge shaped sliders (read: you don't need to take the shaft to a machine shop to have it PROPERLY shortened). Note that among all the 'performance' parts marketed for the GY6, I don't see any 'shortened' variator shafts offered. |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 17, 2013 20:32:57 GMT -5
Not to be overly pedantic, but please take note that there are two separate links in my post.
One link (Variator) links to an actual variator assembly complete with (claimed 117mm) pulley face, back-plate, slide bushings and your choice of roller weights included as a 'package deal'.
the second link (Drive face/Fan) is to the matching 117mm (claimed) drive face.
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 17, 2013 18:33:28 GMT -5
I got curious and did a search. Not speaking to the validity of the claims (of being an 'true' 117mm) or to the quality, but it seems they do exist. VariatorDrive face/FanThe question then becomes.. which belt to use? Would an 842 be adequate? Is there an 843? |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 17, 2013 17:03:39 GMT -5
Possible red flags I'm seeing so far: Which is it? 'Normal GY6 variator? 'Upgraded' from the kit? Saying it's 'about' 4.5" doesn't really help much. IIRC stock diameter is 112mm and the 'performance' upgrades are usually 115mm (I seem to recall seeing a 117 out there somewhere but I forget where). The difference between 112 and 115mm is about 7/64 inch (.118 to be exact)...not something most folks can 'eyeball' on a round part like a variator, even with a tape measure. The reason this is important is the belt you have installed. If I'm remembering my research correctly the 842 belt is for use with the upgraded diameter variator (115mm). Using it on a stock variator (112mm) will prevent the belt from fully opening the rear pulley when the front pulley (variator) is fully closed. This will create a 'hard cap' on your top speed. Having just replaced my clutch this very day, I can tell you with certainty that the belt on my (bone stock) 150cc is an 835 and it's functioning perfectly. 50mph (chinometer) is right at 6100rpm steady, with plenty of throttle to go (previous owner GPS'd the chinometer to be within 3mph when reading 50mph). I'm going to '+1' everyone who calls 'over-carbureted'. Using the Geo engine/Holley carb example from my previous post, not only will a bigger carb NOT make more power on a stock engine, it can actually make it run worse. My gut is screaming at me that this is just a tad loose, but I have no hard data to back that up, so I'll defer to more knowledgeable folks on that. For some reason I want to say .004 intake and .006 exhaust...not sure why. |
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 17, 2013 15:46:00 GMT -5
1.1p57qmj motor (stock internals) 2. 32mm CVK Carb 130 jet with performance manifold3. 12 gram variator rollers 4. No rev limit CDI 5. Gates main drive belt 6. NGK Iridium plug 7. I swapped the final drive gear to because I was tached out and only achieved 45mph. I had full travel on the belt. 8. straight through exhaust9.Stock Fuel pump 10. upgraded Variator from Monster GY6 11. Uni foam filter12. eliminated all of the CARB items With the exception of the bolded items everything on your list either improves reliability of the engine (without adding any performance), or adds additional load to a stock engine (the upgraded gears). The 12g roller offer a very slight offset to the added engine load, but only under low speed conditions. I note also that you have not done anything with the contra-spring on the clutch. The contra-spring and rollers work in unison. Messing with one, and not the other is 'a job half done'. My first suggestion would be to step up to at least a 1500rpm contra spring (don't be surprised if you find you need to re-adjust which variator weights you use). EXPECT to be tearing your transmission apart several times to get it tuned in correctly for what you want, but bear in mind, that you haven't really done anything to make the engine put out more power. No bigger cam...no larger valves...no increased compression...nothing. To whit: A 1.0l, 3 cylinder Geo metro engine will not make a '72 Dodge Charger move as fast as a 318cid (5.2l) will, regardless of what gears you put in it or how long a stretch of road you let it have to 'get up to speed'. There is a point of diminishing returns when it comes to moments of energy available from a given engine, and you have exceeded that point by adding taller gears, but not increasing your engine output to match. The larger carb/intake/filter/exhaust might help a little, but putting an 800cfm Holley double-pumper on a stock Geo engine with a straight pipe isn't going to make the Geo engine suddenly put out 300HP. There's a saying amongst old-school wrenching types: "There's no replacement for displacement." |
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PSI you should be good to go for an impact. You won't have much 'trigger time' with a small unit like mine...after about two or three seconds the air pressure drops off enough that you're not getting 'full impact'... but mine was sufficient to do the job (barely).
