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Post by phssthpok on Jan 28, 2014 11:51:36 GMT -5
Durn British lingo! I was waiting for the guy to whip out a long flat chunk of leather and whack someone's car or something...
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Post by phssthpok on Jan 27, 2014 11:47:37 GMT -5
I'm thinking you need to replace the intake manifold. If they leak you will have a huge vacuum leak and the bike won't idle. The "white smoke" is probably fuel vapor leaking out when you shut it down. The intake manifold on these bikes is just made of rubber and the carb hangs off of it. Vibration and dry rot take their toll. I second the initial assessment. Investigate the manifold by removing it from the engine and inspecting it closely for cracks. If there are cracks, and they are minor, you can try coating the OUTSIDE of the manifold in silicone 'caulk' as a test procedure. I actually ran a manifold like this for a couple weeks until a replacement could be procured, and it was still working fine when I swapped it out for a fresh one. I kept the 'old' one in a small zip-lock bag of used, but 'known good' parts that I've replaced (CDI, coil/plugwire, sparkpug, manifold, etc) under the seat as 'road spares'.
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Post by phssthpok on Jan 21, 2014 16:17:17 GMT -5
I see it all the time and it looks ridiculous. People buy an expensive scooter like a Honda Ruckus or Yamaha Zuma only to do the hillbilly thing and mount a milk crate on the rack instead of a nice trunk. I can see a cheap $700 chicom scooter but a $2,200+ scooter. Rukus:Zuma:Given the similarities in their 'rugged, industrial-minimalist' design/image, I'm going to go out on a limb and speculate that it's mere 'hipster imaging' that causes people to put a 're-purposed' milk crate on their scoot. Kinda like hipsters that will spend money on 'fashion' glasses with plain glass (read: non-corrective) lenses...just so they can 'look' intellectually superior.
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Post by phssthpok on Jan 20, 2014 10:05:18 GMT -5
Could also be a dirty/plugged main jet.
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Post by phssthpok on Jan 12, 2014 9:48:23 GMT -5
I seem to recall this video being discussed before, with the consensus being poor form led to 'exiting the envelope' of stability/traction.
He wasn't going so fast that a proper (read: deeper) lean would not have saved the turn, but with his leg out like that there was no way to get into that lean, and once his foot touched it was 'just enough' to unload the suspension and lose grip resulting in the low side.
Also...ATGATT. Crocks and shorts? In the slow replay you can see his left knee scraping along the pavement. That's what made me cringe the most.
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Post by phssthpok on Jan 6, 2014 16:51:58 GMT -5
Don't use a screwdriver, find something with rounded edges (like a tire iron). I have been known to use the boxed end of a straight wrench in the past, because it's rounded and won't tear the rubber. The bigger ones (15/16", 7/8", etc.) are about the right length for the needed leverage without being too 'thick' in the shaft, and the rounded 'box' end is angled, so it helps when trying to 'grab' the edge of the tire. One trick I learned (and keep having to RE-learn ) is to make sure both beads are busted loose from the rim, and that the bead on the opposite side of the tire you are working on is situated in the deepest part of the rim groove down the middle. The extra inch or two of offset makes it SO much easier to get the bead you are working on up and over the rim. I almost destroyed a rim the first time I learned this, because I was dead set on having the offside (first) bead 'seated' before starting on the second bead. Once I gave up on that idea, and let the offside float in the valley of the rim, the second bead slipped over the edge like buttah.
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Post by phssthpok on Jan 3, 2014 15:55:37 GMT -5
Buy a whole new Clutch Assembly and you do not have to take anything apart, just take the nut off pull the old Assembly out and slide in the new one put the nut back on and your done. That's all well and good, but it sounds to me like he can't even get the first nut (on the clutch drum) loose to begin with. I ran into the same trouble when I did my clutch a few weeks back. I tried all sorts of bulliferications to jam the drum so I could get the leverage to break the nut loose. Even a 2 foot long, 1/2" drive breaker bar wouldn't budge it, so I finally caved and bought an impact. I STILL had to heat the nut/chill the stud even with the impact, and even then the impact almost didn't get it loose. If the impact hadn't done the trick, I would have busted out the Dremel with a cutoff wheel and a cold chisel!
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Post by phssthpok on Jan 2, 2014 12:48:30 GMT -5
Those are the engines that allow for the really BIG big bore kits without machining, yes?
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Post by phssthpok on Jan 2, 2014 11:05:47 GMT -5
Personally, I'm more intrigued by those 16" rims. They just look... RIGHT. (Though the flame job does look pretty bad-@rse too! )
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Post by phssthpok on Jan 1, 2014 9:58:18 GMT -5
Huh. A parallel twin, 2 cycle engine. Not what I had in mind, but interesting none the less. I bet that thing makes insane power for it's package size. I had thought of that, but really I wanted to avoid the rocking and vibrations of a quick 'one-two' double thump of power strokes inherent in alternating twin, four cycle engines whether they be flat, V, or parallel (and yes, I'm aware of a few mfg's. who make parallel twins where both pistons move in tandem (Honda Rebel 250? ), but the cranks require LOADS of counterweight, as well as additional counter shafts to eliminate the inherent vibrations issues, and weight is a major factor in my plans). In a boxer engine both pistons share the same stroke direction relative to the crankshaft and each one counters the inertial mass of the other one throughout the cycle, which inherently smooths out the operational vibrations, not to mention it simplifies the ignition system since, like the GY6, it can fire both cylinders off the flywheel on every TDC...no distributor needed. Um, yeah...no. Triumph already makes an inline triple, but it's water cooled, and..well...to be honest I'm not looking for a physically large overall engine size. I realize BMW already makes an air cooled boxer, but again...it's larger (both physically and in displacement) than I had in mind. Somewhere between 300 and 400cc in a lightweight, air cooled, four-stroke boxer is what I'm after. (I'd really be in heaven if I could make it Diesel...but OY VEY!...the engineering! )
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 30, 2013 20:48:47 GMT -5
Shop day!...(snip)...Watching this guy work makes me wonder how far out a mail order crank might be after bashing around in a shipping container for six weeks... So it's pressed together with no other parts involved....Hrrmmm...I suspected as much, but I wasn't sure. I had in fact found information similar to what you linked, but was holding out for a 150ccGY6 specific set of data, though I suppose basic information carries over from one make/model to another. Buy one already assembled and swap it too much trouble to try to replace pieces of it This isn't a matter or repairing a faulty unit. Every once in a while my mind goes off on a tangent and tries to figure out how to engineer something. In this instance, I wanted to know how the crank was assembled because I was pondering how hard it would be to make a 'boxer' (or maybe even a radial) engine out of gy6 parts. Obviously a new crank case would have to be engineered, since the 'off-side' cylinder would occupy the space normally taken up by the rear wheel, but then I had a different application in mind anyway, so it might be possible to simply 'cut off' the structure going back from the variator to the clutch/rear axle assembly. Maybe...I haven't looked at what's involved in the back part of the stock crank case yet.
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 29, 2013 12:59:22 GMT -5
Not really. Here's what I'm talking about; This is a photo of the rod/bearing/journal parts As you can see the rod has no 'traditional' end cap, and the journal is not an integral part of the crankshaft, which tells me that the two sides of the crank (with the counter weights and the output shafts) must be assembled onto the rod journal somehow. Here are two photos of the crank/rod assembly...one from each side You can see the ends of the rod journal in each view, but I cannot find any information as to precisely HOW they are assembled into the complete unit. I can find all sorts of diagrams and photos of completely assembled units (like what you linked to), but nothing like an 'exploded view' showing all the parts, but *not* assembled.
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 29, 2013 10:27:55 GMT -5
...so (bleep)ing hard to find an exploded view of a 150cc GY6 crankshaft assembly? I can find pictures of the entire crank/rod/main bearings assembly, and of just the connecting rod (as a 'package' including rod, bearing and rod journal), but nothing on how the whole crank/rod/main bearings assembly is put together.
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 25, 2013 12:50:54 GMT -5
I would like to know how you cleaned the oil off your plugs so the super glue or epoxy will stick for sure. I'm thinking along the lines of run them through the dishwasher when you do the dishes. I would use JB Weld. It's good for temperatures that would ignite the oil. Not so sure about super glue. 1,1,1, trichlor is ideal...but since it's no longer commercially available, Brake cleaner works a treat!
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 25, 2013 9:09:46 GMT -5
$20 for one drain plug vs. $2 plus some superglue (and a few minutes to pry off the magnets and glue them on the plugs) to do all three (both crank case plugs AND your gear oil plug). I had a couple of these neodymium magnets fall off of the clips and just hanging around on the fridge. A quick test fit shows they fit the tops of the plugs perfectly. A dab of super glue (epoxy works too), and you're set!
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