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Looks like a variation of the 'NY-lock nut' to me. It's a special 'lock-nut' with a (generally) Teflon ring inserted to prevent vibratory loosening. Note the threads of the bolt 'cutting through' and pushing up the insert material at the 9 o'clock position in your photo:


...and compare with an unused nut:


While the insert will add a bit of resistance during tightening/loosening, it shouldn't rise to the level of difficulty you describe. As mentioned by others I'd wager it's simply a matter of exposure to the elements resulting in corrosion lock. There is nothing 'special' about these nuts that would lend themselves
to any greater tendency to 'break things' when attempting to remove
them. Typical removal procedures should suffice. Either a torque wrench, breaker bar, or heat applied to the nut. (Note that heat applied will 'ruin' the insert, but a replacement nut should be easy enough to find.)

My battery is dead. No bones about it. All tests confirm it, and all attempts to charge it are fruitless. It was old-ish, and not not in the best of shape to begin with, so it's no surprise.

What was a surprise though, was the fact that despite the scoot kick starting just fine, the turn signals apparently run directly off of battery voltage, and it has dropped to the point of making them non-functional. All I get is an annoying crunchy 'buzz' when I try to turn them on. Even with the battery charger hooked up in 6A mode and the scoot running, it barely runs the flashers, and they still make a brief crunchy buzz when they click 'on' and 'off'. "Crunchzzz-click! (on) Crunchzzz-click! (off)"

What's worse is the low voltage 'partially' engages the flasher, but in so doing completes enough of a circuit that turning the switch off, does not break the 'contact/break' cycle of the flasher, so it continues to buzz. It stops when I turn off the key and/or kill switch (completely de-energise the entire system), and remains 'off' when I restart the engine.

Now, I can live without turn signals for a little bit until I work up the funds to get a new battery (I do know my hand signals after all ). What I'm concerned about is whether or not running the scoot in this condition will risk voltage regulator damage the same way running without any battery would. I can't imagine why it would, but then... I'm an automotive gear-head... I'm not as familiar with scooter electrical systems.

Thoughts? Opinions?

Linky no worky.

Is this the photo?



Edit: Yup... you noticed the broken link and fixed it while I was searching out the photo!

Not as crazy as you might think!





Admittedly the sno-runner is a much smaller unit than the 'tank-cyle', but you can see the evolution of the idea from military application to civilian. Ramp it up in size (larger frame/V-twin) and give it a freewheeling 'front track' with a .30 belt fed MG, and you're pretty much back on track.

I have zero interest in a 'sport bike'. my speed demon days are done...I had my fun (plenty of it in fact) and got my fill. The Harley in question really is fairly top-heavy with the huge fairing, and the large top-box. I can plant my feet just fine, but I don't think I'd dare try and ride it. Add in 1600cc of engine, and yeah... no thanks.

Were I to go the 'throw down 250' route it would probably be a Rebel or something similar.. a lightweight cruiser style. If I had the funds I would have jumped on this the moment I saw it though: spacecoast.craigslist.org/mcy/4309273846.html



It's a 99.9% exact match for what I'd like in a bike; low slung, 650cc, shaft drive, bags, windshield, driver's seat-back, engine guard, and highway-pegs. The missing .1% is the color... I'd dearly love a deep midnight blue, but I can't say the burgundy red is turning me off all that much.

I was working on getting a friend's bike fired up (sat long time, weak battery, very cold ambient temps not helping), and I decided to sit on the bike after my efforts to try and start it.

I have learned that a 2008 Harley Davidson FLHTCU feels GOOD rumbling underneath you! I never really cared much for full dress baggers, but, now?... I've been bitten.

Makes sense since, from what I could see on diagrams, the pressurized portion of the oiling system only goes up to the head. The crank and rod seem to be splash lubricated on the roller bearings.