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Post by ramblinman on Dec 20, 2013 14:12:00 GMT -5
i saw this video months ago. he makes it look so easy. i had to look his video up again today because i was beginning to believe the threads were reversed. how in the heck do you guys get that nut off?
i'm trying to change the contra spring on my new clutch. i'm having difficulty opening my old clutch and the new one.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 20, 2013 14:47:46 GMT -5
finally got the old one apart. now on to the new one. i had to use a c-clamp, wd40 and an adjustable wrench. hope that trick works with the new one also. i wedged some cardboard between the clamp and clutch to prevent damage.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 20, 2013 14:58:10 GMT -5
got them both apart. the new clutch came with a yellow spring which i think is going to be too stiff. i don't want my engine to work too hard to get the belt all the way down in the clutch pulley.
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 20, 2013 15:45:55 GMT -5
Based on the title alone I was going to point you to that video. I just changed out my clutch a couple days ago, and fully intended to use that method. Unfortunately, I couldn't find my big 15" 'multiple sixteenths' wrench, and all my 12'' were just a titch too small. I wound up having to use the bench vise and a strap wrench. It was actually a lot easier then I anticipated. For the compressing part (to keep the spring from going 'splody when the nut is removed), rather than trying to stand on it and bend over, I placed the round box-ends of my two largest wrenches on either side and kneeled on the wrenches. Worked a treat! (though I'd suggest a couple of 2x4's instead...the wrenches were a bit 'slippery' on the clutch and a 2x4 has a broader surface to rest the knees on)
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 20, 2013 15:53:11 GMT -5
Unfortunately, I couldn't find my big 15" 'multiple sixteenths' wrench, and all my 12'' were just a titch too small. i had the same problem. i used a file and grinded a little off the jaw. fit like a glove after 10 minutes of filing. thought about removing a fragment of the thumb adjustment so it could open further but didn't have a small enough chisel.
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Post by spandi on Dec 20, 2013 17:11:52 GMT -5
This might make it easier next time.
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Post by ramblinman on Dec 20, 2013 18:53:13 GMT -5
This might make it easier next time. definitely... i don't have the right size socket though.
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Post by spandi on Dec 20, 2013 21:34:31 GMT -5
Yeah, but it's a good idea to look into. I found the 1 5/8" socket on ebay at a good price and after three squeezes of impact wrench, the nut was off. (worth every penny in saved frustration.)
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Post by sk8almost44 on Dec 21, 2013 9:38:50 GMT -5
If I was going to buy an air compressor and impact wrench, what would the recommended psi and everything I should buy? Or should I buy an electric one? Someone please guide me before purchasing one so I don't buy one that can't even take the clutch/variator bolts off..
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Post by phssthpok on Dec 21, 2013 10:51:48 GMT -5
If I was going to buy an air compressor and impact wrench, what would the recommended psi and everything I should buy? Or should I buy an electric one? Someone please guide me before purchasing one so I don't buy one that can't even take the clutch/variator bolts off.. The compressor I used is actually quite small... about the smallest you can get with an air tank attached to it I think...2 gallons. (It's very similar to this one, but not CH brand) As long as it will fill the tank to a minimum of PSI you should be good to go for an impact. You won't have much 'trigger time' with a small unit like mine...after about two or three seconds the air pressure drops off enough that you're not getting 'full impact'... but mine was sufficient to do the job (barely). If you're serious about equipping a garage for automotive work in the future, I wouldn't settle for anything less than a 5 gallon tank *BARE MINIMUM*, preferably something 10gal+. Those compressors ranging from 2-5 gallons are great for smaller projects...air staplers/finish nailers, light sanding, air brushing, die-grinding...that sort of thing. Most full-on automotive type air tools require large volumes of air 'at pressure' to perform properly.
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Post by sk8almost44 on Dec 21, 2013 20:17:09 GMT -5
Sorry wrong thread..
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 21, 2013 23:07:12 GMT -5
If you are not wrenching on multiple vehicles weekly, but just working on your scooter, you can use this impact wrench which runs off your scooter's battery. It's the spin-up-and-hit type, and takes about three whacks to get my variator or clutch off. I then let it whack it three times when putting the nuts back on to get as close to original torque as possible. I installed a cigarette lighter to battery adaptor for easy hook up, and I carry the impact and a spare belt with other tools under my seat, so I will never be stuck on the side of the road (knock on wood). Harbor Freight 12v 1/2 Inch Emergency Impact Wrench
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Post by junkyarddog on Dec 23, 2013 23:06:39 GMT -5
I used a fairly large pair of visegrips, and clamped them on the nut (I had to open them up almost all the way to get them on it) First I took an engraver, and made a mark on the nut and the part it screws onto, then I just took a hammer, and started tapping on the visegrips. After about 2 minutes, the nut came loose. I put my feet on it, like in the video, and unscrewed the nut. There is not that much spring pressure. I put it back the same way, and tapped on the visegrips until the marks I made lined up, then continued to tap on it for about another minute to make sure it was tight. I have torque wrenches, but no socket that big, or any way to hold it to use a torque wrench on it either. I did the same thing with the clutch bell nut. For the front variator nut I fabricated a holder with 2 pins that fit into the holes in the outer side of the pulley, and actually torqued it down.
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Post by earlylight160 on Dec 24, 2013 6:46:32 GMT -5
I just purchased a 39 mm impact socket ($14.51 + shipping) for my 12 volt impact wrench from www.toolfetch.com/ UPS should be bringing it today.
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