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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 13, 2013 20:05:39 GMT -5
Here's one from Linkin Park, a video of a haunted house I went to 2 years ago on my birthday. ; )
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 13, 2013 19:56:46 GMT -5
With all these videos loading, it makes me feel like my high-speed internet is dial up, lol. Maybe post link instead?
Anyway:
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 13, 2013 17:22:11 GMT -5
Thanks guys. I will do a valve adjustment check just to prevent any future problems from happening Nothing wrong with checking the valves.. EVER. Besides checking hoses and the carb, it's one of the first things I check if my scooter isn't running properly. That's after the brain farts of checking the kill switch.. or checking the coil to make sure it's on the spark plug. Lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 13, 2013 17:08:00 GMT -5
I try and run my scoot as often as I can in the winter, and if I need or feel that I need to charge my battery.. I can, because I have a charger/maintainer. So either way I'm covered, unless I get really lazy.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 13, 2013 17:00:11 GMT -5
You'll know if you need a valve adjustment, your scoot won't run right. Period.
If you check the gaps as periodically as scootnwinn suggested (props to anyone that does--nothing wrong with preventive maintenance), then you'll probably never ever have to worry about it. Not sure, a lot can happen between oil changes I suppose?
There really is no exact time that you may need to adjust the valves--- each scoot does vary. I've had an engine that seemed to need it every 3 months, then another engine needed it once over a period of approximately a year.
One thing is for sure, IMO, and that is to always check, and even double check, after a rebuild (BBK..etc) or if/when you ever get a new engine---before starting.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 13, 2013 12:41:07 GMT -5
I ride mine nearly every day if its real cold I may just take it around the block a few times than put it back in the garage I get the "itch" after a few days of not riding, you too? Lol
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 13, 2013 10:56:14 GMT -5
I like to ride mine as much as I can in the winter. I just don't like my scoot to sit.
Once it gets below freezing, the 10 mile trip to work gets pretty cold-- plus my face shield gets iced up from my breath. So I, unless absolutely necessary, refrain from it as best I can. Really the coldest parts of my body are my hands, neck, and face--- after the fact, from that long of a trip. My hands have been numb several times--and having to take my bulky glove off to pump gas doesn't help.
Here in northern Indiana, the winters can be brutal at times. We do get lake effect snow where I'm at, even being a few counties away from Lake Michigan.
I'm fortunate enough to have a garage with a space heater in it-- that helps. There is really only maybe a 2-3 week period (temperature wise) to where it can be "unbearable" to scoot, or just not worth it. I mean, I'm able to ride at least enough to keep the battery charged, overall throught the winter.
I try to stay off the roads when they are still snowy (plows can't keep up, or aren't out yet), when it's icy, and when the snow is on the road, packed down like 'Kat said.
As long as I feel that I'm not a hazard to myself or anyone else on the road, and the temperature is bearable, I'm good to go.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 12, 2013 2:47:58 GMT -5
Pushing the scoot home sucks, lol.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 12, 2013 1:05:04 GMT -5
Usually the symptoms for a valve adjustment are: hard starting and lack of power. Sometimes after it finally starts, the power is just not there as before, and may even die out down the road(probably) like Alley said--- at a stop sign or light. Usually less uphill power, slower acceleration.
The symptoms gradually get worse. Usually it starts off as a hard start or three. Then for a bit it's hard starting(usually when the engine is cold or shut off for a bit) and lack of power. Then, finally, you'll be lucky if it even starts, lol
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 10, 2013 21:24:52 GMT -5
I used a pair of arc-joint pliers to compress mine. It worked fine--- and they were pretty rusty before I replaced the caliper.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 8, 2013 23:20:20 GMT -5
I also think there may either be:
A) 2 different back-plates, with different sized grooves where the v-guides fit into, or B) 2 different sized v-guides. Both being black, and not being sold as better quality---as stock replacement for the 139qmb variator.
I could barely get the back plate on last time, after installing new v-guides. They just would not fit all the way into the grooves like they have in the past.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 8, 2013 4:12:22 GMT -5
Those 3 V-shaped variator plate guides scare me. Those things are such junk. There just to guide the ramp plate and keep it from binding up. They do wear out tho.... They wear out fairly fast. I've changed them out several times over time. They definitely need changed out once a year, and probably closer to twice a year with or without BBK, or just lot's of riding. I buy 2 sets just to have a spare set on hand. Nothing like a $3 or so fix to keep you off the road, and possibly a new variator if you go too long without replacing/checking, before catching the culprit. I've had that happen.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 7, 2013 21:23:02 GMT -5
Those 3 V-shaped variator plate guides scare me. Those things are such junk.
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 7, 2013 21:20:15 GMT -5
I'm just planning on dropping about $150 on a beefy crank(and hopefully forget about it for a long, long time), and probably a new oil pump/seals. I haven't explored the strokers yet, but I do read what gets posted about them. I've considered doing a top end on mine... I have 7k on it.... but if it's not broke, why fix it? Were you considering, whenever that may be, on just a stock rebuild or a BBK?
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 7, 2013 21:05:42 GMT -5
I wanted to, and should have, upgraded my crank last time. I plan on doing that over the winter.
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