Sophomore Rider
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Commuting is the best part of my day!
Posts: 213
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Joined: Feb 26, 2013 7:56:23 GMT -5
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Post by trailheadmike on Nov 9, 2013 14:58:48 GMT -5
I just put on a new rear tire and changed the brakes. I thought the brakes were going to be difficult but they were a snap. Hardest part was pushing the pistons in so that the new pads would fit in and over the rotor. So glad I finally got to this -- I was down to the metal on my pad. Here's old and new pads:  I also put on a Shinko sr429. So far so good - like riding on a magic carpet. My Michellin, which cost me $53, didn't even last a year so I'm hoping to have better luck. I got the sr429 becuase it's rated for 75mph.  |
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Post by rockynv on Nov 10, 2013 2:00:17 GMT -5
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Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Commuting is the best part of my day!
Posts: 213
Likes: 14
Joined: Feb 26, 2013 7:56:23 GMT -5
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Post by trailheadmike on Nov 10, 2013 7:45:09 GMT -5
There's a tool for everything, right? The c-clamp is a great idea too, thank.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Nov 10, 2013 16:48:57 GMT -5
Trailheadmike,
It's good you replaced the brake when you did... I found on my old 150 that when the pads wear (at least on mine) the caliper-pistons can suddenly reach their full amount of travel, SUDDENLY and WITHOUT ANY WARNING, rendering the brake INSTANTLY "dead". Fortunately, mine did this in the driveway as I began a ride! I applied the brake as I rolled off the center-stand, and all was fine. I applied the brake again before entering the street, and it was GONE!
I replaced the caliper and noticed there was an abnormally large amount of free-space between the pads and disk, even with new pads.
So, I took one of the old pads, ground off all the remaining pad material and inserted it as a spacer, behind the moveable pad in the new caliper which placed it "just right" before ever activating the brake. That gave me a "full-squeeze" on the lever, and eliminated the excessive free-play that was always there, even when the scoot was new... I suspect these calipers are used not only on scooters, but on ATV's and larger cycles which use thicker disks. The open space between pads on the new caliper is about 1/4" and the disk on my old 150 was only 1/8" thick, so I'm guessing the calipers are designed for 1/4" thick disks, and they work OK on 1/8" disks... UNTIL they wear some... LOL!
I just traded the '07 Xingyue 150 on an '07 Kymco 250. I love the way it rides, but noticed while it has new tires front and rear, they are the common "J" speed-rated (62 mph) Kendas. Since the scoot will do 80 mph, and, since I will need to do some serious freeway travel at 65 to 70 mph they are not even "marginal"... So like you did, I will be replacing them with higher-speed rated tires.
My "new" oldie Grand Vista is just "begging" for old-school whitewalls... And Shinko makes a nice 120/70-12 whitewall for the FRONT, but NOBODY offers a 140/70-12 whitewall for the rear. Shinko's "rear" offering is a 130/70-12 whitewall that's nearly a half-inch smaller-diameter than the proper size. So... I'll most likely get a proper size Shinko blackwall and paint the whitewall with Gledi.. Rumor has it that it's nearly as durable as "genuine" whites... I'll find out!
I've heard nothing but good reports on the Shinko tires. Some riders swear by the more expensive "name-brands" but they also seem to complain about them not holding up as well as the Shinko. For the everyday scooter-jockey, I don't think you can beat Shinko tires.
Ride safe!
Leo in Texas
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Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Commuting is the best part of my day!
Posts: 213
Likes: 14
Joined: Feb 26, 2013 7:56:23 GMT -5
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Post by trailheadmike on Nov 10, 2013 17:06:05 GMT -5
All great points Leo. The Shinko story that I read is that Yokohama's motorcycle tire division had a major fire at their main manufacturing facility, and instead of rebuilding they sold the business to Shinko. Point being that when you buy Shinko its like buying a Yokohama. I'm hoping this will be a long lasting tire.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Nov 10, 2013 17:24:47 GMT -5
All great points Leo. The Shinko story that I read is that Yokohama's motorcycle tire division had a major fire at their main manufacturing facility, and instead of rebuilding they sold the business to Shinko. Point being that when you buy Shinko its like buying a Yokohama. I'm hoping this will be a long lasting tire. They "jus' gotta be good" since even the Big-Twin Harley-bagger-jockeys often use them in their wide-whitewall incarnation! When it comes to durability, I have a funny story from the 1970's "stone-age". Back then, I got a well-worn Honda 500cc 4-cylinder motorcycle. A nice little bike... NO torque, but plenty of horsepower. I replaced the bald Michelins with a new set of Bridgestone tires. You absolutely could NOT wear them out. As far as I could see, you couldn't wear them at all... LOL! They were made of such HARD rubber, they were impervious to wear, BUT... SO hard they would slip and slide on dry concrete like you were riding on slippery, wet pavement!On high-speed 2-lanes, I had to slow to below the speed-limit to safely negotiate any but GENTLE curves! On merely WET pavement, it was like riding on ICE... Tires have come a LONG way since then!Long live our little "scooterdoodle" donut-tires!Leo (keepin' the shiny side up, and the greasy side down) in Texas |
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Post by onewheeldrive on Nov 10, 2013 21:24:52 GMT -5
I used a pair of arc-joint pliers to compress mine. It worked fine--- and they were pretty rusty before I replaced the caliper.
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