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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 5, 2014 18:47:41 GMT -5
jjoshua20213, Let me ask one simple question, I assume you have the throttle Wide Open now when it drops the rpms and you keep the throttle Wide Open do the Rpms start to climb again or do they stay where they dropped to? Alleyoop They start to climb again. I'm going to go fully inspect the cvt now, but I doubt thats the problem. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 5, 2014 16:36:59 GMT -5
Before I had a clutch get wet and rust a little and it created deep groves in the sheave and it would get stick there and not accel, just sound like its trying harder.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 5, 2014 6:37:21 GMT -5
Tried that already, same result
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 4, 2014 23:05:54 GMT -5
Thats pretty much what i'm trying to explain That shifting into a lower gear is accompanied with a significant increase in rpm not a decrease. Your description is of shifting prematurely into high gear, bogging the engine down and loosing rpm's. That indicates the issue is not slippage. A slipping clutch increases engine rpm and does not reduce it. I know its not slipping, the pads are new, but something else. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 4, 2014 22:37:33 GMT -5
The only time I've ever felt the cvt feel like it's shifting is while going uphill with a 2000rpm main spring, it will sometimes feel like it shifts to a lower gear . Other then that it should be a smooth transition . Thats pretty much what i'm trying to explain |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 4, 2014 22:33:42 GMT -5
I'll take pics tomorrow when I get off work. I only have the air screw problem with this carb, any other carb is normal, all my vacuum hoses and manifold are new, and I don't have egr
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 4, 2014 7:16:41 GMT -5
Tried 2 other diaphragms with the same result
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 3, 2014 7:44:01 GMT -5
OK, if initially it will rev up and lift the slider then it will not hold and the slider drops the diapghrgam has a rip and or it is leaking and you need a new one. Yes it will bounce up and down but will not hold a throttle position because the slider is going up and then dropping due to leaking and not holding the air pressure. Alleyoop The diaphragm is fairly new and looks good, but i'll try another. For some reason this carb has to has the air/fuel screw turned mostly out for it to accel nicely. Any other carb works with the normal adj. range. I even tried switching pilot jets with another carb. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 2, 2014 23:26:51 GMT -5
The question has not been answered, what is happening and when. Apparently at WOT it is acting up but in order to diagnose the problem more detail info is needed , what does it do any motor sounds BOG, BRAT, POPS etc.. But here is how the air on the air intake side of the carb works: Alleyoop  I guess it would sound like a bog? Imagine riding and hitting the brakes without releasing the throttle. You hear the engine working harder. I revved up the engine and listened to it. Then I took the diaphragm cover off. Then I revved it to wot again and watched and listened and it sounded the same. Then I wedged my finger in the hold and lifted the diaphragm manually. It quickly accelerated into a high rpm. However i cannot get the diaphragm to stay up at high rpm, only at idle. as soon as it revs past a curtain point the diaphragm sucks itself down into the seat and sounds like its bogging and feels like its starving for gas. I got it adjusted decently, now it takes off and your can hear it rev up then it acts like its starving for gas. It literally sounds like a manual transmission being up shifted. If I keep riding it feels like its surging a little.Sometimes I can hear it all of a sudden gain rpm like I just twisted the throttle more. |
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 2, 2014 11:49:58 GMT -5
Can anyone explain how the carb diaphragm works?
My diaphragm gets sucked in at wot, vs. it going out a little.and raising the needle.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 2, 2014 6:06:14 GMT -5
Even after you clean them, they will get dirty and glazed in the same time frame it took for it to initially start squealing. Its pointless.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Sept 1, 2014 8:12:29 GMT -5
The clutch
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 31, 2014 14:23:12 GMT -5
You know how when you hit full throttle from idle and you hear it rev, then switch. Well this bike sounds like i'm hitting the brake when it switches and the rate of accel is significantly effected. No mechanical noise, just rpm's drop significantly and I hear it struggling.
sounds kind of like when you hit a hill with variator weights too heavy.
I have a pretty good idea of what it is and hot to fix it, I just want to hear ideas.
The problem happened within a period of 1 week.
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 28, 2014 0:25:15 GMT -5
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Post by jjoshua20213 on Aug 28, 2014 0:12:49 GMT -5
If your tire is under 10-10,5 in than its short case, if its over its long.
I also pulled is off of scrappy's page.
SHORT/LONG CASE
How do I know if my 150cc GY6 is a long or short case? I want to change my belt and it has no indication on it?
With a few exceptions, the 125/150 GY6 has two belt sizes: 743 for the short case, and 842 for the long. If you have a 10 inch rim on the rear with a tire that is 3.50 wide or less, it's a short case. The belt cover will also measure 16 inches from end to end. If you have a 10" rim with a 4.00 wide, or a 12 or 13" rim, you have a long case. The belt cover will measure 17 1/8" long. Another easy way to tell is simply to count the number of retaining bolts for the belt cover, the short case has 8, the long one has 10.
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