|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 11, 2014 5:11:30 GMT -5
Cool, i'm just going to install it and post my success or failure.
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 10, 2014 14:39:00 GMT -5
So the place i got it from said their are thicker gaskets for the 52 and that he's out of stock on them. Any one know where I could find a second base gasket or the thicker ones i'm hearing about. He said it should work fine but I think he's just trying to make a sale.Yea life would be simple to go scrappy. It would also be simpler to have the money to go scrappy too.
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 9, 2014 0:38:41 GMT -5
Thnx!
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 8, 2014 22:40:06 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 8, 2014 22:33:50 GMT -5
Thanks!
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 8, 2014 18:53:35 GMT -5
So the screws on the brake cylinder are stripped and won;t move and I have bad luck with extracting screws.
With that being said I need brake fluid and havn't replaced since. Brakes started to feel spongy but still work good.
A little while ago the bike went do and the front caliper was taken off for repairs.
When I "tried" to put it back on its as if i'm pushing the brake a little bit and the pads won't fit over the rotor.
Is my caliper damaged or do I just need to bleed the brakes?
I did notice that it rubbed a little bit but not much before, I neglect to inspect if its working properly.
My question is what should I do to get the brake pads to not "stick" or retract back like they should so they will fit over the rotor
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 7, 2014 23:58:29 GMT -5
I would visually inspect the rollers to check for where. I've seen some old rollers in perfect shape, and ive seen some new one with flat spots all over them. Every bike is different so its hard to tell.
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 4, 2014 13:55:10 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 3, 2014 16:40:46 GMT -5
Whats the difference between Airsal and the bbk's from ebay?
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 3, 2014 16:37:14 GMT -5
the mechanic side of the swap is the easy part I'm talking about parts wise I don't want to have to order 600 different things from 50 different places I want everything I need with one order What he posted above pretty much sums it up except some parts it comes with are cheap and your probably going to end up not using or replacing. I would get this cdi: www.ebay.com/itm/121141496370Its comes with all the main jets except for  which is the only one that works for me. Your stock carb does the samething as the one included if your stock carb is not sealed. Your stock intake manifold is fine to use if it only has one vacuum port(New scooters come with one for fuel pump and 1 for emissions.) Or just plug up the extra one. Your going to want sliders for better accel instead of roller weights. You don't need another fuel pump if the one you have is fine. I have the ignition coil in this package The spark plug wire and cap are super cheap with paper thin wires. Failed in 1 week for me, and the coil made no change. I bought that same variator and it made my bike slow and accel slow. Changed back to stock and problem solved. With all that said the cheapest bbk you will find cost 50 including piston and cylinder components.If you want an exhaust the cheapest you will find with a search is 65. Thats $115 for just those two upgrades. plus everything else would total more but is worth it Don't get me wrong this kit will dive you desired results, just there are better parts than whats listed, and some are extraneous. |
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 3, 2014 15:58:14 GMT -5
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 2, 2014 18:24:59 GMT -5
So the engine finally blew today. I went on a joy ride to test reliability and sure enough. It idles and starts fine but as soon as you hit the throttle it bogs and dies. Took it apart and the rings were fine but there was a substantial amount of scars on the cylinder and side of the piston. Its to my understanding that an piston heating faster than the cylinder will cause this or foreign debree getting into the gas/fuel mix. Checked my air filter and there is a part that's torn and letting in unfiltered air. seeing as its been snowing and salt and crap is all over the streets I think that might be the culprit. UPDATE: So I put everything back together. No smoke at start up, power came back, but still no power when gassed. I then suspected a clogged main jet.(I know i'm going backwards) Cleaned out the carb. Same results. Then I checked the needle jet and diaphragm. All looked good until I pulled up the diaphragm and there was no needle?  ? Turns out the needle top broke off and the needle fell all the way down and was blocking the gas passage. Replaced the needle with another one and the problem was solved. Only problem is the replacement was from a stock carb and only has one setting and is making me run lean. Anyone know where I can buy a needle jet for my carb? |
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 2, 2014 14:10:19 GMT -5
The scooter revs high, like really high. Maxing out going down hill, it was running so good I thought I was going to blow it. If I were to change the final gear ratio I don't think it would happen. The smoke was from the exhaust, When reved it produced more. I don't ever count miles I normally just check it randomly or when I think i've been riding alot. positive it never goes over 100miles though. If the rings are going, thats fine i'll just rebuild. I ride hard so its to be expected. Here you say it revs really high and maxing out going downhill. The higher revs are probably due to the A9 came that is what A8-A9 cams do produce higher rpms by opening and closing the valves quicker. As you go up in the Cam numbers A10+ it slows the opening and closing of the valves allowing for more air and fuel to come in and you get lower rpms but more low end torque. As far a locking up the rear wheel if the motor blows the sudden stoppage of the Variator no longer turning you do not know what it will do inside the CVT and could lock up the rear wheel which would be disastrous at speed is all I am saying. Alleyoop Yea, it all makes sense. Thanks! I think that if I had checked and changed my oil and used a good oil instead of cheap oil it would have held up. |
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 2, 2014 13:49:16 GMT -5
Second run with a lot of smoke at until it warms up. The oil was charcoal black, indicating excessive blow-by. I know I blew the rings.
However it runs fine, can I just keep riding or do the rings have an expiration date now?
Also, my plug looks fine so i'll leave the carb alone.
|
|
|
|
Post by jjoshua20213 on Feb 2, 2014 3:40:10 GMT -5
Speed is not the problem going down hill it's the RPMS the motor is turning , downhill the scoot is picking up speed all by itself just like rolling a ball downhill and no load on the motor. So the motors rpms start to rise along with the speed. But since you say you can handle it call us from the hospital if your still breathing. Alleyoop After the bbk for some reason the scooter dosn't pick up speed down hill like it used to. With stock downhill it would give me similar speeds to going flat on with bbk Before I installed an A9 camshaft I had a better top speed downhill with stock vs. the bbk. Almost feels like the bike is being forced downhill vs drawn down. Its like the bike would only go as fast as the rpm. As soon as I let off the throttle downhill or up the bike slows down considerably, with stock if would continue to glide at the speed and gradually slow down... No real way to tell my rpms unless I get a tach which is on my list.. If the engine were to instantly lock up that would cause the variator drive face to stop. Seeing how the transmission is belt drivin the back tire would be givin the hard braking effect vs. the lock up effect right? If I can lock up my back tire at high rpm/speed with the brake and have the engine keep running then it should be the same reversed right? |
|
which is the only one that works for me.