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Post by nassauequipment on Nov 2, 2013 17:09:54 GMT -5
We're parting out a Schwinn Collegiate 50cc.
Took on trade but can't find rider's right shock mount arm (it has two rear shocks)
Engine is all good (thinking of modding it)
All other body parts and running gear needs to go.
Shoot me a pm and I'll take some pics of it Monday.
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Post by nassauequipment on Oct 20, 2013 9:40:06 GMT -5
Small phillips head screws have always been pretty easy to round out on a lot of the carbs that we work on.
Both scooter and outdoor power equipment engines from Honda, Kawasaki, Briggs and Kohler.
We found that a small set of long nose visegrips will clamp and loosen them for normal removal in most cases.
A simple light tap on the handle while fitting the right size quality Phillips screwdriver will prevent a lot of it.
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Post by nassauequipment on Oct 12, 2013 16:03:30 GMT -5
Big help if you think you have some water in the bowl.
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Post by nassauequipment on Oct 12, 2013 15:52:28 GMT -5
Was riding the old ETon (2004) the mile down to the convienence store the other day. Had a lady in a Lexus get pretty close (limit in this section is 35 and I was running wot almost 40) so I slowed and swung over to a turn out to let her pass.....she didn't. So I sped up and kept trucking. Turned in to the store and she followed me in, pulled up with window down and told me my scooter was polluting (its a two stroke) and needs to be fixed. Thank you Mam.  |
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 25, 2013 15:54:54 GMT -5
I agree with an earlier poster....something is binding.
How does engine run with the belt off?
How does final drive turn by hand with belt off.
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 25, 2013 15:50:29 GMT -5
I grew up in the 50's and 60's....and all the "Jap Crap". We laughed at them.
We had just demolished the country.
Their stuff was cheap, but people bought it so they made it batter.
Then by the time the 80's rolled around, I was in my 30's and the 5 largest banks in the world all ended in "A" or "I".
Ninety's and I'm hitting forty and here comes China.... bye-bye Japan.
China has done in roughly ten years what it took Japan took twenty five years.
Scary.
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 14, 2013 19:57:13 GMT -5
Have you found the schematic on the scooter?
Normally the charge circuit has nothing to do with the cdi.
BUT, it could supply the power to the choke/enrichiner.
pm the wiring schematic and I'll try to help.
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 12, 2013 18:36:30 GMT -5
A diodes will be in a circuit to "block" the flow of voltage from going places you don't want it. think of it as a gate that swings one way. How to test? easy using your volt-ohm meter set for continuity you get it one way, switch your probes and you don't get it the other. Has your harness got them? Find a schematic and the graphic looks like this electronics-madeeasy.blogspot.com/2011/01/diodes.htmlTaking the regulator rectifier out of the equation seems to get rid of the dead short I'd check the ground of the r-r and see if its the fault. If it is replace it. They take your a/c out put and turn it to dc and "regulate" it as well so engine rpm doesn't change your voltage. The nominal 29 to 36 volts ac is rectified to 14 to 18 volts and then regulated to the 13+ volts your system needs to charge the battery and run accessories. |
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 10, 2013 16:53:05 GMT -5
Somes scoots run ac to the lights and dc for the other accessories (battery charging, choke solenoid,etc.)
A wiring schematic for your machine will tell you. The alternator output is ac, wiring going to a regulator- Rectifier (changes ac to dc) trace those out. Some alternators are split to provide ac to the ac circuits and a/c to the reg-rectifier.
We see Briggs & Stratton engines on lawn tractors doing this too. Especially if they have manual blade engagement.
Those will be very low amp unregulated dc (straight of a dc winding with another leg for a/c to run the lights.
You just need to follow the wiring to see what you have.
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 7, 2013 17:38:38 GMT -5
another cruel joke on the air-cooled two stroke user, whether its for a chainsaw , trimmer, blower (which all turn from 7,000 to 10,000 rpm no load and some even more) that displace 30cc to 70cc + or a scooter which at 49cc is smaller than some of the back pack blowers we sell. Out boards are generally under 5000~5500 rpm and are WATER cooled which means their operating temps are way lower.
There is simply NO one oil fits all on two strokes.
I had a landscape customers crew stop at a convienence store and pick up some because they were out of oil.
Took half a day to clog the exhaust port, a piece of carbon broke loose and scored the exhaust port side of piston and cylinder.
Don't expect them to make good on the expense , they won't,... even though they have all those pictures on the bottle.
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 7, 2013 17:25:13 GMT -5
The graphics are an eye catcher. Its currently up on their site with specs as well. Like all their scooters good parts and build quality.   |
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 6, 2013 20:27:53 GMT -5
well, cms is kicking in I meant the Blaze... D8
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 6, 2013 19:11:55 GMT -5
Checking in to the new boards.
We have worked on chinese scooters at our outdoor power equipment business the last few years. (Mowers, saws , trimmers , blowers etc)
We sold some scooters back in 2004 (a little ahead of the times)...Alphasports went blooie so we quit.
Been learning, watching and studying the business since 2006 and decided for many reasons, to start selling scooters again.
Anyone in Northeast Florida is welcome to come check us out.
We're soft launching right now and will be "banging the drum" soon.
Our goal is to be the best in service and support of Chinese scooters in our area.
We studied many brands and talked to dealers and distributors on both coasts.We're an 18 year old business that is careful about any brand we bring in to our store.
Our choice , after a ton of due diligence, is Wolf Brand (formerly known as Gorilla).
Existing products are really nice, what they have coming is really special.
I ride my old (2004) AlphaSports/eTon everyday and love it.
But I'll probably move on to the new Wolf FLASH.
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Post by nassauequipment on Aug 6, 2013 18:41:53 GMT -5
long time 2 cycle power equipment dealer here.
Its a common mistake made on two cycle engines to run too rich on oil mix.
Not only can it cause the exhaust port to build up carbon which can break loose and score the piston and cylinder.
Think of it this way. Oil is a GREAT insulator. That's why its in big electrical transformers.
An excess oil gas mix will put excess oil on the skirt of the piston. Heat MUST transfer from the piston to the cylinder wall and dissipate on the cylinder's fins ( we're talking air cooled here). Guess what happens when the extra oil is on the piston and "insulates" it from transferring the heat to the cylinder.
When you see dark brown on a piston skirt its "cooked" oil from heat.
The thought if some is good mORE is better just doesn't apply here.
Use the premix or the oiling system but not both.
main thing use an oil for an AIRCOOLED 2 stroke.
I run my 2004 AlphaSports/eTon on RedMax 2 cycle oil that is a good blend of synthetic.dino oil. Made for air cooled two cycle engines I have low to no smoke and approaching 2k miles. Other than running premium fuel, changed to NGK Iridium about a year ago and keeping a good fuel filter its had nothing done since 2004.
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