New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 29, 2013 1:52:59 GMT -5
|
Post by greens on Aug 11, 2013 20:26:00 GMT -5
Alright so when i bought my scoot the guy claimed it had a bad battery and that was all i needed because he didn't have one.
Well i got a new battery stuck it in and while it did work the first use, started, blinkers, etc. it didn't work after that.
Well i noticed the fuse was blown. Replaced it, and noticed that the lights were on even though the scoot was completely off and the key removed.
Try to use starter; Fuse blown.
Time to bust out the multimeter. Red on positive black on frame and sure enough, i get a reading. I think they call that a Dead Short?
The scooter hasn't been touched by anyone other than me, the wiring is all factory, and in good shape so i don't believe it's any of the wires.
Easy enough to trouble shoot i guess, so i prop up the multimeter and start disconnecting devices to see if my reading goes back to 1.00000
Up front by the headlight is a small device which looks like a heatsink that has a socket of 4 wires. The manual states this is a Rectifier/Regulator. Unplug it and the multimeter instantly goes back to the 1.00.. reading! Nice!
Within the R/R itself, idk if this matters, but the 4th and 3rd slots pass continuity with flying colors, they are connected like a wire.
If i disconnect the R/R EVERYTHING works. The headlights turn off with the scoot, the starter can start without blowing the fuse, blinkers function, everything. (except, and i'm guessing, my ability to charge my battery while running, and my ability to provide anything other than 12 volt power?)
SO again Scooter completely off, with R/R connected, the lights stay on, the fuse gets too hot to touch, and the positive lead has continuity with the frame. Press starter and the fuse melts. If i disconnect the R/R the fuse is no longer hot, at all. And everything appears to work great!
Therefore i have a bad R/R and need to get another one?
I believe the battery wasn't bad, rather destroyed, as it was just permashorting out until the fuse blew, and if you never tried to start it the fuse never blew, and the poor battery just sat there shorted out. (i'm pretty sure i ruined my replacement battery too, but the autoshop exchanged it, since then i of course do not leave the R/R conneted)
The big question for me is, does this make sense? Would an R/R go bad, and would it cause these symptoms? Could something the PO done simply shorted out the R/R?
Can i run the bike without the R/R? If i plug the RR in lights stay on and fuse and battery start to heat up, can't be healthy. Without the RR everything works great.
Where can i find a new R/R? Seem pretty generic, i could just make one fit?
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
Joined: Aug 11, 2013 18:11:51 GMT -5
|
Post by westendscooters on Aug 11, 2013 21:42:13 GMT -5
Had this problem on a 250 before, was the Diodes.... haven't heard of it happening on a 50. what CC is it?
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Aug 12, 2013 0:25:16 GMT -5
you will blow headlights etc.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 29, 2013 1:52:59 GMT -5
|
Post by greens on Aug 12, 2013 9:44:32 GMT -5
I must disagree.
The R/R's primary function is to turn generated AC to DC, and clean up the DC created.
No R/R means no electricity from the scooter is being distributed.
The Meter reads 12.0 with the scoot off, 12.0 with the scoot on, and 12.0 with the scoot at wide open throttle. That's what my lights are getting.
If anything getting rid of the R/R and relying solely on a battery is the cleaner form of power. Just that... it will inevitably deplete.
The question is, would the problem be caused by the R/R itself, or something farther down the line?
"Diodes" is kind of vague isn't it? Where are they, their function, how to test, etc.
Thanks!!
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 14
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 20, 2013 15:15:52 GMT -5
|
Post by nassauequipment on Aug 12, 2013 18:36:30 GMT -5
A diodes will be in a circuit to "block" the flow of voltage from going places you don't want it. think of it as a gate that swings one way. How to test? easy using your volt-ohm meter set for continuity you get it one way, switch your probes and you don't get it the other. Has your harness got them? Find a schematic and the graphic looks like this electronics-madeeasy.blogspot.com/2011/01/diodes.htmlTaking the regulator rectifier out of the equation seems to get rid of the dead short I'd check the ground of the r-r and see if its the fault. If it is replace it. They take your a/c out put and turn it to dc and "regulate" it as well so engine rpm doesn't change your voltage. The nominal 29 to 36 volts ac is rectified to 14 to 18 volts and then regulated to the 13+ volts your system needs to charge the battery and run accessories.
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Aug 12, 2013 19:12:52 GMT -5
the regulator also should regulate how many volts goes to what. so no regulator means no regulation of vvoltage to certain areas . you will def have problems withburning headlights and whatnot.
|
|
|
Post by sailracer on Aug 12, 2013 19:40:30 GMT -5
A diode is a rectifier. A>C or alternating current willgoto12v+andbackto0 and than to12v- or whatever voltage you have. A diode will pass the positive voltage and block the negative. it"s how you make dorect current. to test one just put the red meter lead on one side, and the black on the other (meter in ohms) . If the needle moves,reverse the leads. if it doesn't move its good if it reads both ways its no good.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 29, 2013 1:52:59 GMT -5
|
Post by greens on Aug 13, 2013 11:00:02 GMT -5
That makes sense, things like the yellow wire that are not 12v are probably reading 12v then huh?
I will have to look for a wiring schematic and check those diodes out!
Uh Oh. Something interesting happened, might be unrelated, but i'm sure it is.
Started her up this morning, put on helmet, and noticed she was revving up, up, up! (not that high but still not an idle, and enough to get the rear wheel spinning.
I put her down from the stand and rev it up, still revs fine, so i let off throttle... Engine stalls, instantly, not like sputtered, but like someone turned it off. Will not turn back on for the life of me! not with the starter or the kick!
Smells like Gasoline, so its getting fuel, but no spark?
I check CDI thinking that maybe the first wire i pulled came loose again which prevents start, nope, still secure.
I noticed the headlight is shattered, both filaments in tact, but the bulb itself is broken! ? its inside the headlight, no way it got touched! glass shards still shaking around in there. But i never got any readings over 12 volts, so i still am hesitant to admit that it blew up.
Diodes sound easy enough to check out!
I'm going to take another step back and completely test everything that i can test with my meter.
I know that i can cause electrical problems to spread, frying different things along the way, so for now i am going to take a step back until i figure this out.
Hopefully i didn't ruin something like the CDI? :S
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 28
Likes: 0
Joined: Jul 29, 2013 1:52:59 GMT -5
|
Post by greens on Aug 13, 2013 15:03:15 GMT -5
EY!
I got the old, old battery from the guy, it's polarity is BACKWARDS. I think it was dead, was charged backwards, and installed correctly (BUT ITS POLARITY IS REVERSED!!!) No wonder he thought it needed a new battery...
This might explain the initial cause of the short, but not how to fix it or how much damage has been done.
I think that makes sense tho, reversed polarity, not enough to blow the 32v15a fuse, but enough to short out the R/R and maybe some diodes?
This could be a nightmare??!!
What doesn't make sense is why i am now getting a failure to start. Shorts don't take time, and my new battery is def positive on positive and it was working fine only yesterday without the R/R plugged in.
|
|