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Post by pmatulew on Jul 24, 2014 5:23:40 GMT -5
0.006 might be too much, but try setting the exhaust to .005. By adjusting the valve clearance you are accounting for expansion of different parts in the engine, and you are also changing the dwell time that the valve is closed and dissipating heat to the valve seat and the cylinder head. More dwell time lets the valve run a little cooler.
While more is sometimes better, you have to stay within a certain range. These small displacement motors are very sensitive to small changes. I was experimenting with my 150 a little while ago. 4 in and 6 ex worked okay. 3 in and 5 ex had a nice quiet hum, but the power was down 10%-15%. A loose 4 in and loose 5 ex seems to be working better.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 24, 2014 5:02:52 GMT -5
2-stroke motors have a bit more oomph compared to the same size 4-stroke motors. They're getting harder to find these days but it might be worth a look around. My aunt has an unrestricted 50cc Eton Beemer that nails 45 without too much trouble.
In the long run you'll be much better off just biting the bullet and getting your motorcycle endorsement, Then you're set to ride whatever you can get your hands on.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 23, 2014 7:30:10 GMT -5
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 23, 2014 7:20:54 GMT -5
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 23, 2014 6:35:18 GMT -5
I finally bought a pack of "genuine" kickstand rubbers for my 150. No wonder that block of rubber I put on there kept breaking off.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 22, 2014 21:37:46 GMT -5
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 22, 2014 21:27:42 GMT -5
Got a picture? Is there a model code or manufacturer info on a rivet plate under the seat somewhere?
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 22, 2014 21:25:02 GMT -5
The engine code will tell you which factory it came from. Crankshafts are about the only thing that may not be generic GY6 as they can be longer or shorter or have different fittings on the ends for the flywheel and variator depending on the manufacturer. Kymco's are actually Taiwanese rather than Chinese and they're built with higher spec parts.
Once you pull the top end off the motor you should be able to twirl the crank around by hand and get a sense of whether or not the shaft bearings and the big end of the rod are showing any sign of wear, contamination or damage.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 21, 2014 12:09:54 GMT -5
BTDT. Oil drips from the valve cover down in to the cooling shroud and then gets blown all over by the cooling fan.  Some of this will help the valve cover gasket seal. Just don't get too carried away. A little squish out is good, but you don't want clumps of it getting loose inside the engine and clogging up your oil passages. |
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 19, 2014 6:14:45 GMT -5
I have the same problem, but it doesn't take weeks. If I ride my 150 every day or every other day the motor will start on the first or second attempt. (And yes it's already tuned and adjusted as well as it's ever been.) If I haven't ridden the scooter for more than a few days, it's very difficult to start. It may take 20 or 30 bursts of the starter before it finally catches. I don't believe it's the battery because it valiantly keeps on cranking the motor, long after I have lost my patience.
So what else could it be? My scoot has a low mounted fuel tank and a high mounted fuel pump. (A new Mikuni). But even if somehow the pump and the line to the tank had drained backward, there should still be enough fuel in the carburetor bowl to start and run the engine for several seconds. Enough to re-pressurize the system anyway. I've considered re-mounting the fuel pump someplace closer to the fuel tank per suggestions that the vacuum pumps push better than they pull. Haven't gotten around to doing that yet.
Fuel drying up in the carburetor bowl? I am skeptical of this idea. I've had many other machines over the years go extended period of time and still fire right up.
Electric choke? That may be worth investigating. My engine never really has a high idle at startup. It just starts and runs. If the choke isn't fully engaging, that would make it difficult to start.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 14, 2014 19:54:11 GMT -5
Ugh, This salesman gives me the creeps.
BMS Evo V9-->
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 14, 2014 19:45:01 GMT -5
Qlink -->
Just one of twenty or so different names this model gets badged with. They were all born in Taizhou at the Znen factory.
If it was Sym or Kymco it would cost double. I think the Qlink new retail price is so much higher than others because they offer a 2 year warranty. You get what you pay for.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 14, 2014 17:36:21 GMT -5
Little old lady pink? A rose by any other name is still a sweet ride --> elmira.craigslist.org/mcy/4522332157.htmlJust give it a good once over. 350 miles in 4 years isn't much. Probably will have original parts that need to be freshened up, (battery?, hoses?) If you decide to bring it home, give me a shout, and I'll be happy to share my experiences. |
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 13, 2014 8:59:32 GMT -5
I concur. Really not that much more difficult to drop the engine/transmision/wheel package out of the frame and throw it up on the bench. Easier to work on. Easier to see what you're doing. Especially if your're working with a drill and taps.
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Post by pmatulew on Jul 10, 2014 18:15:57 GMT -5
Scrappy dog/common parts --> scrappy dog common parts2/3 of the way down the page. I would recommend pulling the lock set and having it in your hand when you order since they come in several different styles |
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