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Post by gingel on Apr 18, 2015 10:32:21 GMT -5
I have a question about the timing chain. During the rebuild i replaced the chain and also the tensioner.
Yesterday, when i checked the valves clearence i noticed that the chain have free play to the sides. if i try to push it up and down, then it's not moving that much. Is this normal? I don't remember how it was when i assembled the engine. Here is a video i made:
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Post by gingel on Apr 18, 2015 5:17:57 GMT -5
I'll get a new fuel petcock.
Regarding the gear oil, i'll drain it again in another 600 miles. hopefully it will be cleaner. Normally i change the gear oil only every 5000 miles.
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Post by gingel on Apr 17, 2015 15:09:10 GMT -5
geh3333, Are you feeling better? Did you find a new fan shroud, or are you going to try and fix it?
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Post by gingel on Apr 17, 2015 13:50:56 GMT -5
With a genuine SYM belt (made my Mitsuboshi i think), i can get around 16,000 KM (10,000 miles). When i bought a replacment belt that also made by Mitsuboshi (but in china), it only last around 8,000 KM (5000 miles) before i had to change it. It started to have too much cracks.
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Post by gingel on Apr 17, 2015 13:32:29 GMT -5
Are you overfilling the fuel tank when you get gas? If you overfill, the tank, and it get's into the emissions canister, it can end up in the air box. You can get traces of oil in the air box on a worn engine (you said it was consuming oil before you rebuilt it, so it might be residue from before the rebuild. If you were getting a lot of blow by on the old motor, it would be oil that smells like gas). It may also be residue from break-in. Clean it up and see if that clears it. I do fill the fuel tank to the top. the fuel tank is small, only about 1.45 gallons. It could be that the traces of oil was from before the rebuild. i'll keep and check it. I finished doing the break in today (600 miles) , so i worked on the scooter today. I changed the engine oil, and also the gear oil. Rearding the gear oil, it was really dark color (almost black). I never had this kind of color with the gear oil. The only thing i can think that cause it, is that some of the new bearings still had some grease in them. That because some of the bearings came with side covers, and i removed them, but they had grease inside, and i cleaned as much as i can, but some grease was still inside them. Can a grease cause the gear oil to get a black color? I planned on replacing the fuel filter, and when i dissconnected one of the fuel lines, fuel started to flow out. This means the fuel petcock is not good. I started to drain the fuel to a bottle, and when the fuel level got to about a half of tank, suddenly the fuel petcock started to work again. What about that? Maybe too much fuel inside the tank can cause the petcock to stop working? Anyway, i'm going to order a new one, and mean while i will not fill more than half of tank. Do you think the bad fuel petcock is related to the fuel smell i sometimes get from the exhaust, when i'm standing with the scooter and the engine is idle? I also checked the valve clearence, and the intake was ok, but the exhaust valve was slightly too open, so i adjusted that. Thank you guys for helping.
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Post by gingel on Apr 14, 2015 14:01:52 GMT -5
I replaced the airfilter today and i noticed that inside the airbox where the rubber snorkel connects, there was something like maybe traces of oil, but it smells more like fuel. it wasn't a lot. I cleaned it. Is it related to the smell of fuel i sometimes smell from the exhaust when i'm standing with the scooter and the engine is idle? What do you think about the scooter fuel consumption? Here is a picture of where i found the oil traces (i marked it with red arrow):
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Post by gingel on Apr 11, 2015 8:53:06 GMT -5
I like the looks of the plug , yes its a little on the rich side . is the scoot smoking at all ? Any bogging ? If no to both , I would leave it alone. I would also see how many miles per gallon you are getting. I read your post about hitting that deer. I'm glad to hear that you are ok and well. I hope you'll be riding again soon. The scooter is not smoking or bogging, but i did notice that sometimes when i'm standing with the scooter and engine is on, the exhaust gas smell like fuel. I checked the fuel consumption a few times, but i need to drive it more to be more accurate. i used the scooter with a lot of stop and go, so i got a figure of around 63 MPG. Without so many stop and go, i think i can get around 75-77 MPG. This is about the same fuel consumption i had before the rebuild. Do you think it will get better? (i only done around 400 miles) I have a CV carburetor with i think a main jet and 35 pilot jet. (These are the stock jets). Regarding the oil consumption, it's no longer drink oil like it did. Before the rebuild it got to a point where the oil consumption was almost 1 quart for every 620 miles. (strangely it didn't smoke). After the rebuild it burned a very small amount of oil at the beginning, but now the oil level is constant, and it's still almost at the top level (i didn't add more oil since i first started it). I understand that it's nomral for a new engine to burn a small amount of oil at the beginning.
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Post by gingel on Apr 6, 2015 9:07:18 GMT -5
Thank you for the explanation.
I would like to replace all of the vacuum lines, and i wonder what is the correct I.D ? Is it I.D of 4mm(5/32inch) or 5mm(3/16 inch) ?
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Post by gingel on Apr 5, 2015 6:56:11 GMT -5
Thank you JoeyBee. Your plug looks perfect. If you have a richer mixture, can it prevent from the threads to have these burn marks?
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Post by gingel on Apr 5, 2015 6:23:34 GMT -5
Maybe i'll try to lean the mixture a bit, see what it does. lain, i didn't understand what you said about the burn marks on the plug threads. I didn't clean the plug before taking the pictures. Do you have a picture of a plug with these burn marks on the plug threads? Thank you.
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Post by gingel on Apr 4, 2015 2:55:16 GMT -5
I hope that these bolts will not get loose. I took pictures of the plug, now that i did around 500KM (310 miles). What do you think about the color of the plug?
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Post by gingel on Mar 30, 2015 18:58:07 GMT -5
Any one knows if i need to recheck the torque on the engine head nuts, after i'll end the engine break in?
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Post by gingel on Mar 28, 2015 5:00:22 GMT -5
I had to use a heat gun to warm the bearings seat so i can get them out with the puller. When i installed the new bearings i also used the heat gun to heat the bearing seat, and i put the bearings in the freezer for a few hours. Still, they didn't go in so easy like you see in this video. Only the final axle bearing dropped straight in, and also the driving gear (with the bearing on it) just slid in without any force (after it was in the freezer also). The small bearings (number 6301C3 i think), were a tight fit, and even after heating the bearings seat, and putting the bearings in the freezer, i still had to use a socket which have about the same outer diameter and use a hammer to get them inside. To replace the bearing on the driving gear, i asked someone with a manual press to help me with that.
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Post by gingel on Mar 26, 2015 18:30:03 GMT -5
Yes, you are right. For 59-69$, it's better to buy a new crank.
I have a question about what i need to do after i'll end the engine break in. Do i need to recheck the torque on the engine head nuts?
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Post by gingel on Mar 18, 2015 8:36:04 GMT -5
Thank you all Hopefully the engine will keep working. I will try to lean the mixture a little, see if that help. Regarding the crankshaft, i took it to a workshop, cost around 40$ for the labor (not including the cost of bearings). You need a press and a dial gauge to balance the crankshaft. I don't have these tools. A new SYM crankshaft is around 200$ + shipping (it's heavy so shipping will not be cheap), so i prefered to rebuild the crank that i have. Btw, the old bearings from the crankshaft are still ok, even though they made more than 100K km.
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