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Post by prodigit on Oct 25, 2013 18:41:50 GMT -5
you actually got a rubber seal? I got a metal one on mine.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 25, 2013 2:26:55 GMT -5
Way too insane!
A turbo on a 50cc would be awesome, but not on a bike.
A 50cc 4 stroke would already be too fast on a bicycle.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 24, 2013 2:26:58 GMT -5
Gravediggers  2 months old; user never reported back since. |
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Post by prodigit on Oct 24, 2013 0:52:25 GMT -5
There's 2.5 people per second less space on this globe!
We gotta do something about that!
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Post by prodigit on Oct 24, 2013 0:47:58 GMT -5
I had that same CDI, and it worked worse than the stock black CDI I had.
The starting was better on mine, the mid range was sloppier, the top end was the same.
I went back stock.
I also have the orange cable, but never got to installing it. The orange cable just makes sure your sparks are bigger.
If you gap the spark plug to <0.025", there is no benefit on this orange cable.
Only when the spark plug starts wearing out, and the gap gets bigger than 0.030", and the engine has trouble getting it to spark, does the orange cable help, as it gives less sparks per second, but they're higher voltage, so the spark can gap bigger distances.
It's way wiser to install an iridium plug, gap it correctly (preferably below 0.025") and get rid of the orange cable.
The only thing good about it is that the spark plug cable is of good quality.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 24, 2013 0:42:22 GMT -5
Plug it in parallel with an existing 12V battery.
If you have a spare battery, just parallel connect them; but keep your hands on the empty battery. The moment it gets warmer than hand warm, disconnect! You don't want it to explode!
If you have another empty or broken battery, connect them both in parallel and connect those 2 batteries to the charger.
The charger should recognize them, it just says your battery is not charging, because the remaining voltage on the 12V is too low.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 24, 2013 0:34:10 GMT -5
I'm sure you could even fit a 13" tire on a short case, you'd have to get a rubber flap as a tire or something, ultra low profile, like this:  not saying it exists for a scoot, but clearance wise it should fit. Mounting the rim might be another issue. Most of the time the rims are with drum brake included, which means there's not much difference between 10 or 12" rims on the brake side. Mounting to the CVT might be another issue I don't know of. The stock 10x3.5 tires work good all the way to 60MPH, when you pump them up to 38PSI. They should be able to handle 40-42PSI. When they are somewhat deflated, like 29PSI, in corners the tires tend to bend, and make the scoot feel wobbly indeed. If you want more upgrades to do, install LED lights, install a Cigarette lighter plug, an MP3 radio, an alarm, GPS tracking device, or experiment with installing a 12V blower on the carburetor (esp. on 50cc's is a blast!). |
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Post by prodigit on Oct 23, 2013 2:42:18 GMT -5
On those scoots, the 10x3.5 tires are the biggest you can put on them.
Perhaps you could put 12" wheels on there with low profile tires.
But on the stock 10x3.5" rear tire, you barely have 0.5" space between engine/CVT block and tire.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 22, 2013 16:12:05 GMT -5
I've had over 5,5k km on my tao without valve adjustment, mostly ran at idle or WOT.
By around 5k km I heard some ticking in front so I knew I needed to do the valve adjustment, which I will do as soon as my new bike arrives in the shop.
In the mean time, I've been riding 500km with ticking valves, though never far. When the engine is hot, it ticks less.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 21, 2013 23:54:06 GMT -5
That's how F1 started!
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Post by prodigit on Oct 21, 2013 17:36:06 GMT -5
Yup, looks like you've overburdened the engine; seems like the overhead on those engines is lower than 33%; that's about correct with what we learned in mechanics class, 1/3rd overhead will create products that have a reasonable lifetime. Industrial products have higher % overhead.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 21, 2013 17:29:06 GMT -5
My 'unprofessional' advise would be:
Try to turn the AF screw so the idle will be as high as possible; lower the idle a bit with the idle adjustment screw, so it'll have the correct idle RPM, and continue to adjust the AF screw.
If you put the idle too high, and try to adjust the AF screw there, it'll be incorrect at lower RPMs.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 21, 2013 17:14:51 GMT -5
The too tight valves never caused any problem with me.
If anything, over time valve spacing increases, so having the valves tight (but not too tight) just makes sure you'll be riding longer without adjustment.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 19, 2013 3:02:36 GMT -5
For that money, I would get a used Burgman400! I look at it the other way. For the price of a used, heavy, more gas hungry, unwarrantied Burgman you can get a new, lighter, fuel efficient bike with a warranty, ABS and Traction Control. You also take out of the mix the possiblility of buying someone elses self inflicted problems. It all depends for what you need it for. 250cc scoots are fun, they can get upto highway speeds, but don't go cross country (or even cross state) with them @80mph, or they WILL break! Here in S-Florida, on the Interstate I95, people are going between 75MPH and 85MPH (with the occasional nut going faster). With a 250, that means operating it near to it's peak. A Burgman 400 is more made for the 1-2 hour highway/interstate rides, while most 250s are made for the 1-2 hour <70MPH rides, with occasional short 75+ MPH speed stretches. I got a 750cc Honda Shadow, by many would be seen as a gas hog (48MPG at 80-90MPH, and 60MPG @ 40-45MPH), but by no means would I ever trade it for a 250cc for the 200+mile rides. My EVO150 gets about the same gas mileage as my VT750 (66MPG, compared to 60MPG of my 750). |
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Post by prodigit on Oct 19, 2013 0:22:10 GMT -5
If you do too many mods at a time, you won't know which mod is responsible for the change; eg:
You modded the needle clip, and did the AF ratio change on the AF screw. Doing them both simultaneously might confuse you if the bike does not respond the way you want it to go.
Better to do one at a time, test and set it to the best setting, then do the other mod, test and set it to optimal setting; then go back to the first mod, and see if the same setting still holds true;
for instance:
If your bike was running lean in the mid range, you could benefit from upping the needle a bit, or you could change the AF screw, which in minimal ways also affect the mixture. Doing them both at the same time, may cause one's effects, to cancel out the other, or add to them, making the mixture possibly too rich... Just as example.
You lose top end with heavier rollers, because the engine goes into lower RPM, and does not have enough hp to overcome wind resistance at higher speeds.
Chances are if you are able to improve engine performance the heavier rollers might work out perfect, and when changing them back to those that worked before, might not be the optimal setting when you are able to get more power out of the engine through mods.
Most common mods (in order of installation) are:
1- BBK installation,
2- Free flow air intake, unrestricted exhaust
3- carburetor rejetting, (and carburetor tuning)
4- Gear change,
5- performance variator (if necessary).
All the above mods are tuned to which ever BBK you install. The larger BBK you install, the more power the engine has, the larger diameter exhaust, and bigger the air intake filter can be, the bigger the jets the carburetor needs, the larger the gear change the bike will be able to accept for a higher top speed.
With a gear change, chances are that a performance variator is not even necessary; as a performance variator is just an easier mod than a gear change mod, but in minor ways works out to the same end result (higher top speed).
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