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Post by prodigit on Nov 1, 2013 11:53:24 GMT -5
You could also ask Pizza Hut, and you'll get this nice box (for free?): It's commercial for them, you know
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Post by prodigit on Nov 1, 2013 11:51:13 GMT -5
I would have checked the bike for more damage. Never know if something got out of alignment, or the muffler cracked in a hard to see space. However, if it was me, I'd charge $150, for a new exhaust, and just keep riding with the old one. A new exhaust is $120, and labor is about $20 (though most stores have a minimum of $40 for 30 minutes work; changing exhaust should take 15mins tops).
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Post by prodigit on Nov 1, 2013 11:45:34 GMT -5
On my Honda motorcycle, I have a battery that's been in there for at least 4 years, if not 8 years, and is almost to it's end. The battery on my ATM50 is now dying, after only 1,5 years, and I wonder which battery would be a good, lasting one, and if they are much more expensive than the cheaper ones?
Or is it possible to add water or acid to the old battery, and get it's performance back up?
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Post by prodigit on Oct 31, 2013 14:33:58 GMT -5
Always start with the BBK. Then the gears, though you'll just have more top end; and it's a lot of wasted money, but if you're doing it for the fun of it, the gears will be number 2. Then change the rollers to lighter sliders, for faster take off. Performance variator is not necessary when you do gear change. But if you're just playing around skip the gear change and do the performance variator. I think the TaoTao's pretty much use freeflow air intake. A freeflow exhaust does very little on a 50cc. I doubt it'll account for more than 0.2HP, you'll have more success inflating the tires to 38PSI.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 31, 2013 10:32:17 GMT -5
It's the Volkswagen Beetle that had 1350HP, not the scooter. Besides, jet engines are good for top speed, not for acceleration (they're very slow; much slower than a 50cc upto almost 35MPH).
Third, the engines are just placed next to the scooter, not even installed. They would suck empty the gasoline tank (provided they ran on gasoline instead of on other crap) in a few minutes.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 29, 2013 16:57:05 GMT -5
How much HP/top speed gain?
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Post by prodigit on Oct 28, 2013 18:15:56 GMT -5
It's probably best to keep the exhaust stock (best performance that way), but if you want to have a bit nicer sounding idle, you could drill 3 holes; 1 x 1/8" hole to the right, 1 to the left, and 1 just above the exhaust tip. I would not drill a hole under the exhaust tip, because when it rains, that hole will allow water in the muffler, which could rust the muffler from the inside.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 28, 2013 17:59:11 GMT -5
If you don't need the trunk you could remove it. Another mod you can do is splice the brake cable, and rout it to the trunk, and install a LED strip there. Some trunks have red plastic, as if they where brake lights, yours doesn't, but just installing a red LED strip might look cool on the trunk, in case you want to keep it.
You can also install a cigarette lighter plug in the underseat trunk area, or in the glove compartment. (seat tapped from the 12V battery; glove compartment, tapped from the ignition key wires.
Also, over time you may notice that the exhaust 'chrome' will start rusting! Surprise! Chrome rusting? Yep, it's just polished steel. You may want to either paint it, or find another exhaust, because just that small exhaust plate makes the whole scoot look old and worn if it's rusted.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 28, 2013 17:55:21 GMT -5
Kickstart. Other than that, I'd also check the CDI, if it's plugged in well.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 27, 2013 13:54:58 GMT -5
I loved the KLR650! Awesome for anyone 6+": A couple of negative points, but not that many. The Honda NC700s is just another beauty for 5'8" people, however I felt like my knees where hitting the gas tank due to being too large: Surprisingly the tad smaller CB500x sits better for tall people, but doesn't have as large storage tank: The good about this bike is that it has a large gas tank, good to get you going for many miles (If I'm correct over 250-300 miles per tank). If you're more old school, I can't really help you; I'm not old school. As a tall person I was surprised at how well the newer Honda Rebel 250s sat: A small modification necessary on the handlebars so they won't hit the knees of a tall person (just tilting them more up), and a tall person would be ready to go. Their suspension was softer than many bikes of that caliber, and their seat felt like an air compression seat (with a tiny hole in the seat, so when you sat, you didn't immediately sank down, until the air had left the seat; some kind of extra cushioning that seems to work perfectly well! They have a slightly larger fuel injected bike, the RS750, I sat on that too, and it feels as tiny as a 750 bike can get, not to mention Honda quality and fuel injection, means MPG monster: A parallel twin engine makes both on the Rebel, and the RS750, for a cheaper, more efficient, and smaller bike, with higher top speeds, than on the VT750. They're the eco versions of the VT750 or the Honda Shadow or Aero bikes. The shadow or aero bikes look like larger bikes (look like 1200cc bikes), because of the V-twin cylinder layout, but don't handle as well, due to being so large. I sat on the TU250x and it sat a bit odd for a tall person like me, but it is perfectly possible to get accustomed to it. These tiny bikes feel silly when you're tall, but they sure as ride fun! The only thing I didn't like is that the handlebars where in the way of my knees a lot, and needed at least 2" riser pieces. I did not try racing bikes, as I think those bikes are for hooligans, and don't want to be associated with such; besides they get stolen more often; much like a Honda Accord or Civic used to be owned by idiots who try to pimp their $500 second hand cars like crazy, that are falling apart, and I just pass them with my Chevy Cruze Eco car, as if they where snails on the road. Dunno, I think a sports bike does not belong on the roads, it's uncomfortable, almost impossible to ride long rides on, and people owning them usually only have them to speed with them; not to slowly enjoy the ride, taking in the environment, or adventuring.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 26, 2013 23:01:13 GMT -5
Yeah, on my ATM50 the drain plug is on the bottom, not the side. The only drainplug on the side is the CVT drain.
Because I've had so many bikes already, I kinda lose track of what drain plug goes on which bike. But I don't think the magnetic drain plug would fit the ATM50. It does on my EVO150, and probably on my Roketa MC-05-127.
I don't know if it's possible to magnetize the oil filter (net). If it was, it would be a good solution to filter out most of the flakes.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 26, 2013 3:34:35 GMT -5
Very nice! I especially like the parking light! Perhaps wanna do it on my scoot as well.
Best way to see if the headlight change is done well, is to park the bike in front of a wall, and turn on the high/low beams. Where you see the beam hitting the wall should match the beam with the new light (usually high beam means a nearly horizontal beam, and the top of the beam is about level with the headlight height. Low beam should be angled under an angle of approx 10-15 degrees down). Some HID lights might still scatter the light, because their filament is further away from the socket than the stock incandescent bulb, and not cause a good headlight beam, but more a dispersed, wide angled beam. If that is the case, you should modify the headlight socket to be moved backwards or forwards (usually backwards) until the beam direction matches the stock beam's path.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 25, 2013 23:46:26 GMT -5
It makes no sense to replace blinkers with leds, as blinkers are only operational <1% of your riding. Tail light makes a lot of sense; I replaced mine with these: www.amazon.com/hkbayi-BAY15D-27SMD-Brake-Light/dp/B00DIVV6WY/Only complaint is at daylight the tail light is less visible; the brake light is clearly visible even under the sun. The dash lights I'd only switch to get a better backlight. The yellow incandescent bulb is somewhat a bit on the weak side, a LED might actually make it better visible. The headlight I would NOT recommend you to change, for 3 reasons: 1- The headlight is AC, not DC, and LEDs don't work on AC (they flicker) 2- The headlight filament is measured (if you see the small distance between low and high beam filament, that's what it takes for your beam to shine high or low. LEDs are not at those exact locations so they will scatter the light; more than likely blinding the drivers ahead of you, while giving a very lousy street illumination (beam is not focused on the road, but scattered)). 3- The incandescent headlight is an excellent voltage regulator. Any voltage spikes, and incandescent lights will buffer those easily. LEDs will shine much brighter, and will not cause as good of a voltage regulating (in other words, they don't cut the voltage spikes very well). They're also more sensitive and prone to failing from voltage spikes. There is a front parking light which you could replace with LED (the tiny light). It looks cool when you change it to a color LED. I've seen bright white, looks better than the incandescent bulb.
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Post by prodigit on Oct 25, 2013 18:58:02 GMT -5
I think JR explained it pretty much as long as you can. My contribution to this topic would be this:
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Post by prodigit on Oct 25, 2013 18:44:59 GMT -5
LoL! I took my 127cc on the freeway, tailgating a truck I did 60MPH, for hours, but not after a sprocket change. I prefer to ride 35-40 MPH on that bike.
I also took my TaoTao EVO150 with CVT on the freeway. Again, tailgating a truck at 65MPH peak, reaching to 70MPH, for at least 30 minutes, and no problemo.
I did get off the freeway about 1 hour in the ride, as I wanted to take it a bit easier on the bike; and took it down to 45-55MPH roads.
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