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Post by prodigit on Aug 17, 2013 0:18:22 GMT -5
First of all, when you want to carry fuel in the underseat compartment, connected to the fuel lines, chances are that the fuel of the top tank will drip into the bottom tank. So you'll need blowback valves to prevent that. Second, the temperature underseat is quite high. Not high enough to combust the gasoline, but high enough to degrade fuel quality drastically in a short amount of time. If you just want to carry containers to fill up the gas tank, why not get a 1/2gal gas can, like this:  or this:  And put it in the glove compartment, or tie it up on the floor board?  |
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Post by prodigit on Aug 17, 2013 0:13:56 GMT -5
The rear seat back support (sissy bars) has a few screws where you could mount a self made rack on
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Post by prodigit on Aug 17, 2013 0:10:10 GMT -5
I' 6'3" to 6'4" and the ATM is perfect for me! I'm sitting between drivers and passenger's seat, but when sitting on the passenger's seat, I still have about +1/2ft on knee space left!
I'd get it with superiorpowersports.com.
The ATM is problem free once you did a PDI.
Most people complain about hoseclips, and a single forgotten bolt/nut to tighten.
Also tighten exhaust studs, or double nut them.
Once that's done, you're in for a 5000+km problemfree ride, as long as you do the oil changes, and occasionally a fuel/carb cleaner treatment, and keep it out of the worst rain (as some people have mentioned that the blinker circuit stops functioning after a heavy downpour, and the exhaust chrome starts rusting pretty much right away).
The ATM50 is small, goes fast, in some cases you may not even need to do much of anything except get lighter weight sliders in the variator, to get a better acceleration.
Aside from that, the bike is a performer. It's small, and for that has little wind drag, and can go fast!
It's around 100MPG, and stock loves BP Premium fuel! The 10% higher price at the pump, definitely justifies the 10% better MPG, AND 10% better performance you get out of the fuel on these bikes!
Also make sure your tires are pumped up to at least 35PSI at all times! I put mine at 38PSI, my tires are rated for upto 40PSI.
The ATM50 comes pretty much tuned out of the factory.
You could put a BBK on it, but whatever good you gain out of it might work against you (reduced parts lifetime, reduced MPG, etc...).
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Post by prodigit on Aug 16, 2013 23:56:02 GMT -5
the engine vibrates and vibrates/semi-bends the rear fork by a few tenths of a degree.
Normally you won't notice it, but that bending of the rear forks, when locking the rear brake, could transfer through the wheel, and get converted to forward/backward motion of tenths of an inch. Good enough to make your bike, and mirrors shake.
The front brake doesn't work because the motor is more directly mounted to the rear fork, not the front fork.
Whatever vibrations go through the front fork get damped by the suspension, because whatever vibration from the motor on the front fork is vertical motion (and the suspension is a vertical suspension, unlike the rear wheel fork, which is a horizontal fork instead of a vertical fork.
This horizontal fork does not dampen anything, but the suspension dampens vertical motion towards the seat, not towards the wheels.
It's probably a very interesting topic with lots of mechanics on engineers level, that could keep you busy for days on end. The amount of info you can gain from just analyzing suspensions.
The reason why they don't equip scooters with a vertical fork on the rear wheel, like it is in the front, is because the engine and brakes would put too much stress on the fork (a front fork is backwards tiled (wheel more forward than handlebars), so that it will work better for braking).
A forward tiled rear suspension would work, if there's no rear wheel braking going on.
But the way things are, 2 wheelers mostly have a vertical fork, which at times can transmit engine vibrations to the wheels when the brakes are locked up.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 16, 2013 23:46:28 GMT -5
The gumming up of a carb usually happens when you have fuel leaking in the cylinder, and the bike is in the hot sunshine, and evaporates the gasoline. When the gasoline evaporates, and constantly new gasoline gets leaked into the cylinder, while being evaporated, the remains is what we know as gum, which will clog the injectors or jets.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 16, 2013 23:38:28 GMT -5
So I've noticed that my motorcycle's idle is very low when the engine is cold, but as soon as it warms up the idle goes up a lot.
I wonder if there's anything that can be done about this.
If I lower the idle too low, the bike won't start. If I set the idle so the bike will start (~800-1000rpm), on a hot engine the idle will surpass 1500RPM (where the clutch starts gripping).
When I set the idle just under where the clutch grips on a hot engine, it's hard to start.
The only thing I can still do is play around with the AF screw.
Is there any advise you would give to play with the AF screw, that could possibly solve my high idle difference (between cold and hot engine)?
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Post by prodigit on Aug 16, 2013 23:18:47 GMT -5
On my ATM50 the speedo is off by a million mph or something, but the odo is on the dot correct.
How I know this?
I plotted out a 200 mile route on google maps, rode it, and the odo was within 1.5% correct (the 1.5% variation could be attributed to not following the route perfectly (and making a few pit stops), eventhough the speedo was at least 25% off
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Post by prodigit on Aug 10, 2013 3:32:44 GMT -5
In that case, you could install a horn as a pipe. It'll amplify the sound, to deafening levels.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 10, 2013 2:42:38 GMT -5
I've got a little over 1,000km on the scooter. Bought it new 2012 TaoTao 50 (49cc). Live in Florida so the carb screw has been adjusted per season. Today I did a gear oil change again and thought I'ld check the air filter. When I pulled it off, I noticed oil on the filter and what appeared to be oil coming out of the hose that attaches to the carbureator... Pictures located here: drive.google.com/folderview?id=0B97byuS4_lCLMmFXMDNhUXh0U0k&usp=sharingThere is no smoke coming from the scooter like a cracked head or anything and it has very low mileage as well. Normally, if you have a spongy air filter, for good operation, it is best that it's lightly drenched in oil. Oil filters out smaller particles that would otherwise go through the pores of the sponge. |
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Post by prodigit on Aug 10, 2013 2:34:16 GMT -5
If every car and motorcycle had loud pipes, there we'd all be deaf!
If not deaf,we'd all go into a trance from the constant humming of a thousand bee sounds on the road.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 9, 2013 5:57:29 GMT -5
I'd NOT advise you to get a BMS 260.
I've had one, and sold it within 2k miles.
The engine and transmission is solid. The shocks do their job, the handlebar ends are solid steel ends. The gas mileage is ~80MPG, which is great for a 250cc, and ok for a fuel injected bike.
That's all good, but the problems outweigh the benefits.
The belt is not good. after 2k miles it needs to be changed, and if you're an aggressive rider, even a Bando belt gets a beating and needs to be replaced.
I had a bad front (brake) cylinder. Rust prevented it to brake normally.
It's idle was so bad, probably the engine wasn't calibrated very well, but the whole front was vibrating, and didn't took long for the plastics to start squeaking, and rattling.
The BMS 260 new costs just a tad less than a second hand Burgman 400; but the burgman is so much better quality.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 9, 2013 2:02:25 GMT -5
You haven't seen the TaoTao ATM50 with 150cc engine? (TaoTao ATM150). Still, enjoy your riding experience, and thanks for updating us on your story  ! |
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Post by prodigit on Aug 9, 2013 1:55:57 GMT -5
I know the gas mileage on those isn't as good as on the TUxies.
Especially the older ones, need a good Carburetor setup, for better gas mileage.
Like with almost every bike on the planet, your bike will probably run nicer with 4-5 tooth less on the rear sprocket, so I'd recommend a sprocket change.
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BMS Bikes
by: prodigit - Aug 9, 2013 1:53:44 GMT -5
Post by prodigit on Aug 9, 2013 1:53:44 GMT -5
Visit rebelgears.com, and ship them your rear sprocket.
Order a sprocket with ~4 or 5 teeth less than the stock sprocket.
I think you may want this, to keep RPMs lower, and top speed higher.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 9, 2013 1:51:43 GMT -5
The 250 is perfectly fine. You could get upto 70-75MPH on those; a great buy!
One thing though,
Women usually get scared of the unknown. When you take her on a 75MPH ride she might not want to ride anymore.
Also, she might think that the 50cc (which is a beginners bike), is totally not at all a 250cc, and give up. But a small rider on a 150cc doesn't notice a lot of difference with a 250cc with 2 riders. Perhaps 15MPH slower.
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