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Post by prodigit on Aug 20, 2013 13:51:44 GMT -5
Curious about the speedo/odometer on my YY250T with 13" wheels... There's a RADAR sign at my workplace setup, and my scooter speedo reads accurately at speeds between 20-35mph, per the sign's display. My odometer seems to read over by as much as .1-.2 miles over for a known 1-mile stretch of road. That would really mess up my calculated fuel economy if the odometer is off by that much. I don't have a GPS unit to monitor against the bike instruments to verify though. Just plot a course with Google maps, and ride it! Record the odo at beginning and end of the course, and compare to google maps. Usually within 3-5% error rate can occure, because of not following the route exactly. (eg: outside turns, or inside turns, or going off track). Then compare the results to the google maps measurement, and you know if it's off or not. |
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Post by prodigit on Aug 20, 2013 13:49:15 GMT -5
Lol!
I'm pretty content with my 50cc, but I still believe that they should up the limit to 75cc. With 75cc you'll get normal acceleration and great top speed (probably just over 50MPH); while still having near to 100MPG.
You really need to tune the heck out of a 50cc (4stroke) to be able to keep up with start-stop traffic.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 20, 2013 10:14:05 GMT -5
I saw it online too. I like the body design, but wasn't fond of the 2 stroke exhaust on a 4 stroke engine.
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RPM Band ?
by: prodigit - Aug 19, 2013 18:54:48 GMT -5
Post by prodigit on Aug 19, 2013 18:54:48 GMT -5
If my engine blows because of overrevving, I just buy another scoot.
For $<900 delivered it's the better option compared to buying parts, and spending weeks trying to fix the broken one.
Quite often such scooters still count for $200 worth on parts. Sell it off to a scooter garage that fixes these scoots, and your new scoot costs you less than $700.
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RPM Band ?
by: prodigit - Aug 19, 2013 17:53:17 GMT -5
Post by prodigit on Aug 19, 2013 17:53:17 GMT -5
On the center stand mine does 10K RPM, but bolts will spontaneously loosen.
While riding i don't often get more than 8k RPM. Most of the time I'm running at 7200 tops, 8000-8500 downhill.
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Idle ?
by: prodigit - Aug 19, 2013 17:51:51 GMT -5
Post by prodigit on Aug 19, 2013 17:51:51 GMT -5
I have gotten it to idle at 800RPM, but I recommend 1200RPM minimum. 1900 is wasting gasoline needlessly.
Just as long as the RPM's don't exceed 2k RPM on a hot engine (or the clutch will engage), and it's not too low that it will start well, I'd say ~1200RPM is good for South Florida weather, and 1400RPM for New York weather, and perhaps 1600RPM for winter weather.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 19, 2013 17:48:09 GMT -5
could be a lean running pilot, or main jet. It often happens that only one of both jets are running lean.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 19, 2013 17:46:24 GMT -5
You're running your bike too lean. Increase jet size, or fuel up with BP Premium fuel.
BP Premium fuel has invigorate in it, which is something that combusts better than gas. It'll balance running the bike lean. It is better to run with airfilter, and increase jet size, but if you don't want to rejet, just keep everything stock, and fuel up with BP Premium fuel.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 18, 2013 11:51:45 GMT -5
The above would be in a situation where the carb is jetted correctly.
Would the same still hold true if the jets are too lean?
I set my idle at ~2k RPM. Perhaps I should reset it on a hot engine at ~1200RPM.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 17, 2013 21:04:17 GMT -5
I don't know where they sell em, the 150cc version, but they are available on the taotao.us website.
The ATMs are small scooters. Probably the smallest size scooter (aside from pocket bikes or unusually small sized scoots), a standard size for 50cc scooters, unusual to find a 150cc engine in them, but it exists.
The evo150 or even the VIP150 are mid sized scoots, or also called full sized scoots. The burgmans or most chinese 250cc scooters (like roketa, BMS 260) are deluxe sized scoots, about 20% bigger than full sized scoots.
Looks to me you're looking for the regular (standard) scoots; the 80% fullsized, in which the ATM fit into.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 17, 2013 20:52:02 GMT -5
Another possibility why the speedo meter and ODO meter are not connected, is because many chinese companies want to make you feel like your 50cc really can do 55MPH. So they create a back sticker showing you're doing 55-60MPH at top speed. It's very easy for them to print out a correct speedo sticker, but they refuse to do this, because of this make-believe false advertisements asian countries are so known for! You'd think that a company like TaoTao, making the ATM50 since 2006 or 2007, would have figured out how to change the speedo to a correct setting? No, for 7 years they're releasing the same overrated speedometers on their bikes, and probably will continue to do so, because people really believe they're going 45MPH when the speedo tells them, when in fact they're only going 35MPH. The ODO is calibrated in many cases. The speedo is calibrated, and then on the background an incorrect speed readout is printed; so it's no longer calibrated. To calibrate it, just do as jeepsteve said, either write a line with permanent marker on the plastic, and write the correct speeds, or get the speedo out, and sticker them to a correct speed, or create your own custom background sticker with zazzle: www.zazzle.com/speedometer+stickers |
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Post by prodigit on Aug 17, 2013 20:44:45 GMT -5
It's actually because the idle jet is running too lean. The main jet is running lean, but I'm not going to rejet the bike.
I thought of putting perhaps 10W40 in it, instead of 15W40, as 15W40 gives too hard starts. I'm playing around with a slipping clutch demanding thicker oil (15W40+), a hard starting engine, demanding thinner oil (5W30), a high idling engine at hot temperatures demanding W40 or W50 oil), a vibrating engine demanding 10W40 for least vibration, and from all of these I can only choose one oil to put in there.
The bike needs to run richer, much richer in idle, and only a tiny bit richer at WOT.
I did not know I needed to set the AF screw at max RPM? I thought I had to set it around 2-3k RPM, was I incorrect here?
I should fix the clutch, but no way I can do that right now. Not enough knowledge yet.
The valves are ok, and the bike has a manual choke.
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Post by prodigit on Aug 17, 2013 20:33:42 GMT -5
My ATM50 has an oil net (not filter but a metal net) at the drain plug. I could put a bigger magnet in the net, without fearing it would get into the engine somehow.
The net is metal, presumably steel, so a magnet will magnetize it.
Great idea to get some magnets in them!
I only wonder if they can handle the heat (it's known that especially neodymium magnets lose magnetism when heated up; I just don't know how hot they have to become before losing most of their magnetic field)
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Post by prodigit on Aug 17, 2013 0:28:46 GMT -5
TaoTao has a lot of scoot models. The one you posted is the predecessor of the EVO150. It's a complete different beast compared to the ATM50 with 150cc engine in:  above is an example of the ATM50, and how the ATM150 should look like (a tiny 80% fullsize scooter). |
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Post by prodigit on Aug 17, 2013 0:25:29 GMT -5
He probably didn't want to have anything to do with it, because you didn't buy it from him.
Vintage or not, if they are a licensed Vespa dealer they can't deny you service. If they do, they're not a licensed (by vespa) sales channel.
Anyway, there are plenty of chinese scooter stores that will want to work on your scoot, and for much cheaper. Though they may not be able to get any body panels, or stock parts, but aftermarket parts.
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