|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 7, 2014 17:50:26 GMT -5
Oops, it was me. WAYALL. I was losing patience. Was going gd 20mph today with the wind in my face. Effing loggerheads were waddling by going, "Daaaaaayam, brah. You might as well walk, son." I kept tweaking this and screwing that, and nothing was helping. Alleyoop, who is always wise but who I'm too stooopid to listen to sometimes said the 9g was just too much, but I had gone back to a 7g/9g slider mix and noticed no improvement--leaving me to think I might as well stick with the 9g for the hope of higher top end and , they were new. So I went with just the 3 9g sliders (equal to, theoretically, my mind said, 6 4.5g sliders). I just knew I would blow some shi8 up, but I got my speed back! Only problem is I barely had to touch the throttle to almost redline the Chinatac; got to 7k rpm like right now, but so did my acceleration. I could seriously ride a wheelie on this now. So, now comes the obvious question; I will go ahead and probably get a new set of 6 4.5g or 5g sliders, but can this 3-slider setup hold out for now? Or even indefinitely? If so, the 9g sliders i just wasted my cash on won't go to waste. Am I gonna destroy my scoot's motor at 7.5krpm?
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 4, 2014 18:21:10 GMT -5
Word up, going back to all 9s and I'll stop beechin til I try taller gears  |
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 4, 2014 17:53:04 GMT -5
Ok so the 9/7g slider combo got the belt all the way up to the top of the variator by dry-erase marker method. Probably have less than 1/8th to the edge of the plate. I guess I should just leave it as is or go back to 9g. I mean, once you've reached the top of the variator, where else is there to go?
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 4, 2014 17:21:56 GMT -5
JJ live in the Northern Neck area, north of Yorktown. I'm not the type to do a bbk; I hate having this thing torn apart; just want the best I can get out of it. Alley, will do with rollers; funny, looks like the belt has been riding really high on the new variator if I'm reading the variator correctly. So that tells me that the 9g sliders (for some reason) have been performing best. I just did the 7/9 mix with a slight loss in power and acceleration (made no sense to me)--maxed 35.5 mph with wind at back (coming back against wind, 26 mph). Now I'm going to go all 7g again but mark the variator first with the dry erase after it cools down enough to work on it. EDIT: 7k rmp chinameter is the highest I've been able to get it.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 4, 2014 16:11:22 GMT -5
Gotcha, thank you Alley. Valves set, and the oil, plug, variator, belt, fuel lines, sliders (9g anyway), fuel lines, tires, carb (w  main) all brand new. Weight/other details in sig. Lemme know if you see anything jumping out at you. I don't care about low-end accel, I ride country roads to I just need that top end to do the best it can, and if I could I would DEFINITELY jump up to a more powerful scooter, but this is what I gots, so I gots what I gots. Thanks for your input, jj and Alley. Going to test the 9g/7g mix now, down from all 9g sliders. |
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 4, 2014 14:53:37 GMT -5
I'm going to try a 9g/7g mix now (3 ea.) then decide if i want to even bother testing a return to 7g or go back to 9g. With the wind at my back yesterday, it hit 46mph which made me happy. wind in my face, 25mph  . |
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 4, 2014 11:09:29 GMT -5
I just ordered some Helix 3/16. John, was the 1/4 a larger interior diameter and could that offer some benefit, do you think, say for air flow?
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 3, 2014 16:29:35 GMT -5
I've seen some debate about 3/16 vs. 1/4 inch lines for fuel and vacuum. Curious what you prefer for gy6 engines. And do they change as you go up in ccs? 1/4 seems a bit fat for mine.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 2, 2014 19:19:00 GMT -5
Dunno what to say; my kick works when start fails, and start rarely fails but it doesn't regularly do that "klank!" On trick you may want to try is is soon as it clanks, hit the starter button again quickly. You may have to tap on it a few times rapidly. Not a solution but might get you through.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 2, 2014 19:12:04 GMT -5
After replacing the fuel and main air line, the a/f screw anomaly went away. Now, twisting it all the way in stops the engine, as it should. So that's good. Idle is back down to 1800 rmp, idle is smooth, a/f was adjusted properly, but I'm still missing about 7mph off of my top end. Super sad about that. This has been a long battle (incl. replacing air filter then reverting back to original, replacing fuel and air lines, both tires, variator, sliders, belt, carb, and probably some other I'm not thinking of). Maybe I'm just expecting too much from a 49 cc and I should have expected it to lose 5-10 mph top end over the winter. I don't know. Tired of trying stuff at this point.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on May 1, 2014 8:07:56 GMT -5
I might try to mix some 9s and 7s, or go back to my 7s. But this problem was present w/7's in. It sucks. I further isolated it to the rear area/low side of the carb. The leak is either at the bottom of the air intake hose coming from the air box to the carb or it is in the carb itself on the lower half, rear side. I tried putting my finger over various parts in that area and then using some RTV silicon to seal off possible leaks, but the only thing that would affect rpms is the spray in a short, heavy dose. Oddly, when I went to re-adjust my a/f, turning it fully clockwise did not stop the engine; still a bit baffled about that, but I once again adjusted for highest idle (which, on this one, is only about 1.25 turns out).
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Apr 30, 2014 13:38:57 GMT -5
Yep, I just ordered tire irons off of Amazon; they didn't make it THAT much easier but still took the job from a 30 minute job to a 10 minute job so was worth it for like $15 but you may find them cheaper elsewhere.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Apr 30, 2014 13:32:37 GMT -5
I got a cheap 12v impact (hammer type; spins up on the inside and then "clank") one from Amazon, probably the same as PCBGY6 mentioned at Harbor Freight, something like $40. It has been worth its weight in gold for me... I use it anytime I have to take the rear tire or variator off and I can plug it right in to my 12V port that I installed to use it on the road if necessary.
|
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Apr 30, 2014 11:37:39 GMT -5
I think your problem might be you heavy slider weights with and without a bbk my weights had to have been between 5.5g-6.6g or my top speed was effected. Tried 8 gram weights once and the top was effected. Sorry, misread the post, but this is a though for higher top speed I thought heavier weights made for higher top speed? Carb I got is here: carb |
|
|
|
Post by wutzthedeal on Apr 26, 2014 18:55:51 GMT -5
Thanks all; that baffles me; I spray a highly flammable spray near intake areas, and the rpms decrease, meaning somehow you're saying the spray went on and essentially sealed the hole for a moment but did not make it into the engine to ignite. Now, if the rpms decreased, that would indicate a decrease in air in the a/f balance--is that right? So that would tell me that something on that right side is like a hairline-crack or something because the visuals all check out. Only other thing I could think of is torquing down the intake manifold even though it seems perfectly snug and tight.
EDIT: ordering new lines tomorrow for fuel and air.
|
|
main) all brand new. Weight/other details in sig. Lemme know if you see anything jumping out at you. I don't care about low-end accel, I ride country roads to I just need that top end to do the best it can, and if I could I would DEFINITELY jump up to a more powerful scooter, but this is what I gots, so I gots what I gots. Thanks for your input, jj and Alley. Going to test the 9g/7g mix now, down from all 9g sliders.