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Post by wutzthedeal on Jul 14, 2014 7:50:41 GMT -5
Update: I ended up finding a tiny leak near the petcock, literally like one drop of fuel per 10 seconds and patched that up, plus I took out my plug and cleaned it with a wire brush; it wasn't really gunked up or anything but the threads had a dark color, unusually dark, and the tip that goes to the coil was also pretty dark. Cleaned those and WD40d 'em. Also sprayed a little WD40 inside the plug end of the coil. Finally, re-cleaned the other end of the coil (the posts and clips) and WD40d those, too. Since then, all has run well but I've only had bout 50 miles worth of test-riding. Hope this helps anybody who has the cutting-off during a ride problem.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jul 8, 2014 12:26:57 GMT -5
This may not help much, but I went through three "cheap" variators and the v guides (plastic pieces) were the worst weakness. The Koso I got had thick guides and they've been doing well.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jul 6, 2014 15:36:12 GMT -5
Well guys for an update on this; it was ok for a while, then started messing up again. I just went n and twisted everything like the coil where it connects to the plug and the other end where the nuts are. That held it for about 100 miles. Now it's doing it again. I stood up on the scooter as it sputtered along like it wasn't getting enough fuel to make sure that sitting on the seat wasn't pinching a hose or connection and that didn't help. Came sputtering home again... it would die out, then would go maybe 15 or 20mph, sputtering, then "catch" and go ahead up to 35mph, then after a mile, maybe, start repeating the process. This morning before all of this I rechecked all cables/connections and WD40d the exposed connections. Swapping CDI has not made a difference. Because it was "catching," it makes me think it's not heat related; that I either have an air/fuel flow intermittent problem or a loose wire (or, as others have suggested, a dying coil). I'm going to swap coils next.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 16, 2014 12:29:17 GMT -5
Ok that all makes sense; I just don't get why they built this with the fuel tank exit at the same height as the petcock. I'll make than line as taught as possible w/o going too tight and then get the slack out from petcock to carb.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 15, 2014 17:42:35 GMT -5
Ok the fuel line to the petcock is almost on the same horizontal plane, though, so that line has to be perfectly straight because otherwise it'll have at least a slight droop in it with any extra... I think the original was about 9 inches long. Should I make it a perfectly straight diagonal connection, level to the ground or lower the petcock?
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 15, 2014 16:35:41 GMT -5
Switched CDI and moved it back; same thing. Noticed that as it begins to (overheat?) fail, the tach will jump all the way up, pegged past 10krpm (yet it's not; it was just running fine at 7.5k rpm). As it jumps up like that, you feel the power failure, then it jumps back down and life is ok, maybe for 10 seconds, maybe for a minute, then it does it again. Then, if you try to keep going/push it (which I didn't) you might get another half a mile out of it before it cuts off. Came sputtering back into the driveway. I have yet to check all the electrical signals yet, but did recheck all hoses and hose clamps (stuff I've done recently). This sucks so bad and I know it's going to be something simple.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 15, 2014 15:59:26 GMT -5
Ok thanks. I'm not getting back into the valves right now. I adjusted them correctly and triple-checked them last time (and they were still almost perfect from the adjustment 18 mos prior). I am moving CDI back as Alleyoop suggested. I also have a bit of a lengthy fuel line in there going from filter to petcock; probably a foot or more, because I hate to cut hose when I don't have to in case I need some later. Can hose length effect fuel delivery? I did notice one air bubble in that line, along 3 inches of it as it sat cold. I took the gas cap off plus rocked the throttle (engine still off) to see if it affected it, and it didn't; is that a sore thumb sticking out? PS John variator works like a champ; thank you again. This was happening before variator switch.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 14, 2014 14:05:30 GMT -5
I guess I'll go .005 in and .006 out?
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 11, 2014 16:47:54 GMT -5
Ok thanks guys; I'll start with measurements and valves, though I just did valves a month or two ago to .004 and .005 (exhaust) but afterward, heard a light tapping that I hadn't heard before which I've read that most aren't concerned about. I'll get back w/results.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 11, 2014 14:25:52 GMT -5
Hey guys; I've read through the board and it seems I may be looking at a coil problem or a seat problem.
I can ride for about 15 minutes, and then it'll cut off when I slow way down or a couple of times, it did it at full throttle. Trying to restart seemed like it really wanted to, but the only solution was to leave it alone for ten minutes. That made me think heat issue, but then I realized it could have been a fuel flow issue. As far as what I've done to it lately; just replaced variator, replaced fuel and air lines, and about three weeks ago, my big ARSE caused one of the two seat support brackets to snap off (the ones that have the permanently affixed bolts sticking up that you put the seat down over and then put the nuts on; one of those snapped off). That could cause some type of pinching, I suspect, and the top of my coil does look "smushed" but I think it had always looked like that.
So:
1. What do you think it is?
2. Would JB Quick Weld be strong enough to put the bracket back on (it had been welded to the frame).
3. If it's a heat related issue, am I just out of luck?
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 6, 2014 20:21:41 GMT -5
I tested mine repeatedly and the glide was good but I did put a little graphite lube on the posts as I always do. One thing I noticed right away is that the thickness is at least double on these guides, and these guides have plagued me for breaking/flying off/wearing out.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 6, 2014 16:33:05 GMT -5
JR, alleyoop, Doug, JerryScript, skuttadawg, For my fourth variator in under 10 kilometers, I decided to stop buying junk. Alleyoop recommended John (Tvnacman) for a mid-quality (all I could afford) Koso variator with 6g sliders. She's faster than she's ever been, and for the first time ever has seen 8k rpm chinameter. I'll never buy a Chinese scooter again, but whatever I get next, I'll be sure to get quality parts the first time. 
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 3, 2014 0:43:24 GMT -5
I ride about 4x per week short errands and a joy ride or two. 2012 Tao Tao CY-50a. 4103km = 2549 miles so far. Talk about a tale of two scooters; I have the same year/model as you, and have 8,700km ~5.4k miles on mine! Got it July 4th, 2012. Have put a buttload of parts in to try to make it a quality ride. It sort of is now. I almost trust it. |
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 2, 2014 11:13:11 GMT -5
No conditions in VA have stopped me since I got my scoot two years ago. Once rode it to a graveyard for a ghost hunt about 10 miles away when it was 20 degrees. Snow is too risky, though; once you've cracked your head a time or two, you start respecting slippery shid.
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Post by wutzthedeal on Jun 2, 2014 11:08:31 GMT -5
I already ordered two, one for each tire but it could be a few days. It's holding pressure... just wondering about the chemistry. It's broken down by where the fat nub is (the recess, where half goes inside and half goes outside the tire). It was a slow leak, to the point where yesterday I felt this shiftiniess. Thought my meds were messing with me or something, found out the pressure was down to about 20psi. Just wondering how long it would/should hold. I'm not above jb kwik either til the valves stems come in.
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