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Post by tweberis on Jun 6, 2016 21:02:18 GMT -5
Hello everyone, It's been quite some time since I have posted but only because I do so much riding. I have a new problem that unfortunately crept up at 330AM on the freeway. Just filled the scoot up with premium gas and hopped on the freeway, about 2 miles down the road, scoot died and wouldn't refire. Got it home and here's the symptoms: I have power, lights, horn, turn signals etc. Last year replaced with Shorai Lithium battery rated up to 14Ah and 210 CCA It cranks and I have spark. I replaced my coil about 2 months ago with another stock coil. The original coil was still good, just wanted to have a backup. Verified spark by hold to body to watch for arc. Using an NGK iridium spark plug as recommended on these forums. I have it all apart now so things are easier to troubleshoot. Replaced the fuel filter, was pretty gnarly at this point. Blew through the fuel pump, no clogs there. All lines attached. I can hear the pump sometimes after cranking, not always, but the pump doesn't seem to pull much if any through the filter (shouldn't it be full?), does it run all the time or should it be fairly slow? Perhaps bad electric pump? Can I test this with a 9 volt by jumping wires (which ones?)? Changed the oil, fresh 15w40 Rotella T last month and it's been doing great. Been running since I got the scoot in 08, only have 6500 miles on it. Did gear oil earlier in the season, all looks good. I did find a wire off the bottom of the carb, crimped a bit more to make it tighter and cleaned, put back on but same thing. Thinking this may have come off during disassembly. Kickstand switch is good, lubed it just in case and can hear the switch go on/off while working the plunger. I have it out of the way for now. I have read that it could be the CDI, checked a few tutorials and my CDI appears good. If I have to replace it I am going to go with this Hi Rev CDI (9000RPM)My problems seem very similar to this thread, cannot find a bad ground anywhere yet and all wiring looks good. His ended up being a battery, but mine is good (swapped with another bat for good measure) Any help is greatly appreciated. On the cusp of summer, amazing weather and I'm down a scoot.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 6, 2016 21:04:05 GMT -5
Also while I have it apart, I am replacing the thermostat, water pump (won't drain for service) and the temp sending unit. Flushed everything and new qualtiy 50/50 mix put in.
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Post by crawford on Jun 7, 2016 18:27:17 GMT -5
First how is compress no compression no fire if none check valves
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Post by flyangler on Jun 7, 2016 19:28:50 GMT -5
I would check valves first, at over six k mi. I would assume that they have been done at least once.
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Post by crawford on Jun 7, 2016 19:36:29 GMT -5
remember assume is a bad word taking spark plug out is easier and doing a compression will tell the real story it will tell you a great deal.
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Post by reggie on Jun 8, 2016 1:13:26 GMT -5
since you just filled it up and went about 2 miles when it quit did you check for bad gas or water in it?
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Post by tweberis on Jun 8, 2016 4:00:38 GMT -5
Valves were done quite some time ago, went ahead and checked them tonight. Intake was at .0025 and now set back to .004, exhaust was at .006 and now back to .005. Compression I need to confirm the actual numbers (my adapter is too big for this plug hole) and will get that checked in the next day. Plugging the hole with my thumb it does feel like solid compression but numbers are better
Checked the gas, shook the tank up real nice and siphoned a quart size mason jar out, no water in the gas and looks to be good. Filled my 4-wheel rig up from the same place not long after and have been using the same gas location for about 8 years now.
With regard to the fuel pump, should this thing kick on as soon as the key is turned to on? I have cranked and cranked and rarely get that thing to kick on. Other times I can tap the starter twice and then hear it go for about 2 minutes before it stops
Lastly, from some other users I made the jump to the orange aluminum safe coolant after a proper flush. Any problems with that or green recommended?
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Post by tweberis on Jun 9, 2016 21:08:18 GMT -5
Okay, first guage was bad (no reading) but second guage is good and it reads 30PSI (Throttle wide open and cranked for 2 minutes)... looking at a top end tear down then? Any reason why it would be sudden with no oil loss that I can detect?
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Post by crawford on Jun 9, 2016 22:26:53 GMT -5
put a little oil in spark plug then check again if better ring problem. If no help valves out of wack you should be at least 125 PSI of better to support fire.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 10, 2016 1:02:36 GMT -5
Thanks, will give this a try tomorrow night and report back.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 10, 2016 21:42:16 GMT -5
Very cool.. wet compression test got me to 80 PSI within seconds (guessing oil started pushing through under pressure, wouldn't go any higher)...based on your suggestion this is just a ring problem and should I procure a piston and rings, rings only, or the entire ensemble (cylinder, cylinder head, piston rings, etc)?
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Post by crawford on Jun 10, 2016 22:26:09 GMT -5
You may have a real problem you need a good 125 psi it looks like rings are bad but maybe cylinder wall maybe also a problem.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 10, 2016 22:57:59 GMT -5
Okay. It's safe to say at this point I can pull it apart and get some photos up here for some more experienced eyes to look at. Will get going on that. Thanks
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Post by rockynv on Jun 12, 2016 7:15:14 GMT -5
That can still be a valve timing or burnt valve issue especially since the intake was extremely tight when you checked it. Rings usually do not go bad in 2 miles of riding unless you are out of oil or its been contaminated very badly with something like sugar or fine sand.
Verify the valve timing is correct and that the ratchet on the timing chain tensioner has not failed. If anyone turned the engine using the cam shaft then there is a high probability that the ratchet on the tensioner has been damaged and is releasing when the engine is running.
The valve being tight can also be a sign that the valve seat was not pressed in completely finally dropped a bit cockeyed and may need to be pressed fully square and lapped or recut.
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Post by crawford on Jun 12, 2016 8:59:46 GMT -5
Valve time? if you add some oil with bad valve time compressing won't change
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