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Post by rockynv on Jun 12, 2016 21:10:54 GMT -5
Valve time? if you add some oil with bad valve time compressing won't change Will for a valve burnt from the timing being off. We are talking about a fairly new horizontal engine with the exhaust valve on the bottom which would get oiled up in a wet test and potentially boost compression to this level if its not cracked. The short time frame in which this happened speaks to something more going on here than rings wearing out which happens gradually over the years and on an Linhai 300 one would not reasonably expect unless there are well over 35,000 miles on the bike. The bike should have been leaving a smoke screen behind and showing signs of the rings being worn out for some time and been using quite a bit of oil if the rings wore out. The root cause of the sudden failure needs to be determined lest there be a repeat performance. Time to pull the head and inspect things. |
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Post by crawford on Jun 13, 2016 10:49:31 GMT -5
well maybe if you flood the engine with oil but in real world test says a table spoon of oil and can't see that working. Remember I'm talking about what schools teach and and tech manuals say.
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Post by tweberis on Jun 16, 2016 1:13:35 GMT -5
Hi all, sorry it's been a bit. I just haven;t had much time as of late to tackle this thing. Anyhow, I have the cylinder head off and cylinder off with some photos hereThe cylinder wall is definitely damaged as well as the piston. Planning on lapping the valves anyway while I'm this far in and should be able to make sure everything is pressed nice and square upon reassembly. Let me know what you guys think. Also, is there an easy way to get that wrist pin out of the piston? I have the circlips out but that pin won't budge.... |
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Post by tweberis on Jun 16, 2016 1:17:13 GMT -5
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Post by rockynv on Jun 16, 2016 4:22:19 GMT -5
Any signs that something was injested to damage the cylinder wall? I am presuming that this is a fairly low mileage bike being a 300 so I would be looking for a chipped valve, missing throttle plate screw, broken spark plug, failed air filter, carburetor slide failure and such. If I am following this right you went from a running engine not burning oil to total failure in 2 miles so you want to ensure that the situation that caused that failure has been corrected also or you could end up with another 2 mile ride.
How many miles are there on the bike? Any chance Linhai will warranty the parts?
From the pics I'd almost wonder if you ran low on oil or had an oil pump failure and had a soft seize. Is the oil pump drive still intact? Was it running hot lately?
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Post by tweberis on Jun 16, 2016 8:31:17 GMT -5
The day I bought it back in 2008 it ran hot when riding it home and I pulled over and towed it back to my dealer who fixed it. Said their was a clog in the water pump (I read the factory coolant is bad and has an additive that can do that) Currently has 6496 miles on it. No spark plug issues, (pic in link) and great spark. Not sure if linhai will warranty, where can I find out?
Can you tell me where the oil pimp drive is?
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Post by rockynv on Jun 17, 2016 4:33:07 GMT -5
The day I bought it back in 2008 it ran hot when riding it home and I pulled over and towed it back to my dealer who fixed it. Said their was a clog in the water pump (I read the factory coolant is bad and has an additive that can do that) Currently has 6496 miles on it. No spark plug issues, (pic in link) and great spark. Not sure if linhai will warranty, where can I find out? Can you tell me where the oil pimp drive is? Way to young to have that happen mile wise. Was it starting to loose oil? At 8 years old its doubtful they would cover it however it does not hurt to ask. The many years with few miles could explain the dirty looking engine. Were you changing the oil twice a year with dino or annually using synthetic? A bike that sees such little use still needs the oil changed regularly due to age regardless of the miles and the coolant along with the brake fluid still needed flushing and replacing every 2 years so you would have been on your fourth flush by now. What was the maintenance schedule that was being followed like? |
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Post by tweberis on Jun 18, 2016 2:01:23 GMT -5
Engine oil done twice a year in my service records, shell rotella t 15w-40, coolant done every 2 years. Brake lines not flushed/serviced ever, usually do that with my pad replacement which has never been done, prefer engine braking.
Kinda stuck at the moment, cannot get the wrist pin out of the piston any tips? it moves freely around the wrist pin and doesn't appear to be keyed to the circlip notch in any way....
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Post by rockynv on Jun 18, 2016 7:59:54 GMT -5
Engine oil done twice a year in my service records, shell rotella t 15w-40, coolant done every 2 years. Brake lines not flushed/serviced ever, usually do that with my pad replacement which has never been done, prefer engine braking. Kinda stuck at the moment, cannot get the wrist pin out of the piston any tips? it moves freely around the wrist pin and doesn't appear to be keyed to the circlip notch in any way.... If it moves freely in the connecting rod and is only stuck in the piston then remove both circlips and tap it out. If your also replacing the crankshaft then don't bother as the crank comes with the connecting rod and the new piston comes with a new pin so there is no need to salvage anything from the old one. This is what the piston, rings and pin look like in the PartsForScooters listing:  Crank kit:  |
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Post by tweberis on Jun 18, 2016 13:01:55 GMT -5
Circlips are already out, this thing just won't budge, keeping after it. Wasn't going to replace crank since it does crank just fine.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 19, 2016 7:36:34 GMT -5
Circlips are already out, this thing just won't budge, keeping after it. Wasn't going to replace crank since it does crank just fine. Could be galled by the heat it experienced. Was the drive chain on the oil pump off or broken? You will need to inspect it and clean up any metal fragments that may have got to it. |
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Post by tweberis on Jun 19, 2016 12:23:29 GMT -5
Chain looks great actually and oil comes out nice, used but no fragments of any kind.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 20, 2016 4:19:36 GMT -5
Chain looks great actually and oil comes out nice, used but no fragments of any kind. The metal that came off the piston and cylinder had to go somewhere. You need to ensure it did not end up inside the oil pump. Oil screen will need to be cleaned thoroughly and while you have the piston off you may want to flush the crankcase with Diesel fuel or Kerosene to get any shavings out of there. It will be another short ride if any metal from the scored piston and cylinder make it into the oil pump and plug it. |
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Post by crawford on Jun 20, 2016 12:56:40 GMT -5
If you go that far remove stater then pull cover when open remove ring gear this will get you to oil pump at bottom. To me this engine was over heated but it also may have be starved for oil. So replace oil pump clean all parts. The reason wist pin won't move over heated badly either water system failed pump, or oil pump. Not if I were to do it it sure would have Both new pumps. My oil of choice 10-14 Amsoil metric and never over 2,000 mile per change. My water cooled system Even's water less coolant boil point 370 degrees yes I paid extra but you never have to change it either.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 21, 2016 7:49:43 GMT -5
Evan's or Engine Ice are the only two coolants I will consider now. The Ice made a noticeable difference in how fast the cooling system performs. At stop lights if the fan does come on its only for a very short time since I changed over to Engine Ice while prior to that it would stay running until the light turned green and you got moving again when our roadway temps were hovering at 115 + degrees.
Amsoil Full Synthetic 10W40 Motorcycle Oil is what I use and at 30,000 miles the engine on my Aprilia is no where as grungy inside as yours (actually looks brand new inside). Replacing the oil pump is probably one of the best things you can do to prevent this from happening again beside surgically cleaning things up.
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