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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 24, 2016 17:57:48 GMT -5
the orange coil should work unless the packaging for the coil specifically states to use a specific CDI.
keep the old coil in your onboard stuff as a backup.
the only thing i would be concerned about is the length of the boot.
if the boot is too long then the wire can't contact the plug.
you are going to like this ride you got.
you can now ride on state roads without blocking traffic.
you'll also find yourself further and further from home.
i finally got mine to where i could feel comfortable 70-100 miles from home.
it wasn't unusual for me to put 70-100 miles a day on it.
just something about 2 wheels that attracts me i guess.
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Post by rockynv on Jan 24, 2016 23:15:01 GMT -5
With a well behaved 250 I am comfortable riding 5 hours out for a 4 hour outing at my destination and then a 5 hour ride home at the end of the day. Have had up to a 700 mile day on the interstate with the Aprilia. Getting caught in a Tropical Storm after midnight while out on the Interstate is interesting however with fresh tires the bike handles it very well.
When on vacation taking a full day ride to go exploring is a activity that starts at 4:00 AM and ends at around Midnight and can involve 5 or 6 fill ups. Would like to ride the full length of the Keys or possibly take the Lincoln Highway from east to west and back again before I get too old.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 25, 2016 0:52:19 GMT -5
Yellowscoot,
Sounds like you got plenty of good advice on everything! GREAT! Yes, those crush-washers are really supposed to be replaced, but usually they will re-seal OK at least once... Especially if not fully loosened. Watch for leaks, but I don't think you'll have any.
I personally do not know if the coil will work on the 250 or not. Some 250's use the same coils as the GY6 150's, but you need to be sure... I also used the orange coil on my old 150, with an iridium plug. It sped up my idle by 800 rpm and I actually had to adjust it back down a tad. Ran GREAT though! Smoother idle, slightly quicker pickup and easier tuning.
Well, the 60 degree sunny day came and went without my getting enough chores done to ride... DANG! More good weather coming so they say...
Ride safe,
Leo
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Post by rockynv on Jan 26, 2016 0:38:03 GMT -5
Yellowscoot, Sounds like you got plenty of good advice on everything! GREAT! Yes, those crush-washers are really supposed to be replaced, but usually they will re-seal OK at least once... Especially if not fully loosened. Watch for leaks, but I don't think you'll have any. I personally do not know if the coil will work on the 250 or not. Some 250's use the same coils as the GY6 150's, but you need to be sure... I also used the orange coil on my old 150, with an iridium plug. It sped up my idle by 800 rpm and I actually had to adjust it back down a tad. Ran GREAT though! Smoother idle, slightly quicker pickup and easier tuning. Well, the 60 degree sunny day came and went without my getting enough chores done to ride... DANG! More good weather coming so they say... Ride safe, Leo If the crush washers were not over tightened originally then you may get away with reusing them two or maybe three times however once they have been crushed to the limit then the Fat Lady has Sung and its time to replace them. They are relatively inexpensive even for the Piaggio/Vespa engines so I generally get a small bag of them so I always will have spares if I can remember where I put them. Can't advise you on the GY6 coil in the bigger bike however it does need to match or be compatible with the CDI. |
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 29, 2016 20:49:28 GMT -5
dollartwentyfive oldchopperguy rockynv LOL...I've searched everything I can think of ie. Paypal receipts, eBay history, Fuelly notes....., I don't know anything about the coil I have, except that, it is "orange". So my best option is just to get one that I know is going to work. ScrappyDog has Orange and Red coils w/ Casoli CDI's . Any thoughts? I just need to figure out if I'm AC or DC fired. Also, should those be added after the break-in period? Thanks in advance, Loren
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 29, 2016 21:17:31 GMT -5
This weekend is going to be like Spring here in Dallas and finally have a chance to get some good face-time in with the bike. (1) Planning on getting to the bottom of the temp gauge problem and ordered a used gauge from a 2003 Reflexjust in case. If it turns out to be just a connection, then, I'll have a spare on hand. (2) Time is due for the 500 mile oil change (third) with dino oil then on to Mobil 1 at the 1000 mark. (3) Install LED headlights. (4) Change out the brake fluid. (5) Install an LED compatible flasher. (6) Perform full PDI. Whether it all gets done, or not, remains to be seen. But, It will be a nice weekend to get something done for a change. Loren, walking on Sunshine, in Dallas |
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 29, 2016 21:58:18 GMT -5
you are going to like this ride you got. you can now ride on state roads without blocking traffic. you'll also find yourself further and further from home. i finally got mine to where i could feel comfortable 70-100 miles from home. it wasn't unusual for me to put 70-100 miles a day on it. just something about 2 wheels that attracts me i guess. Yes, I'm really getting used to this thing. I have been on the highway a few times now and it feels a little knarly at at those speeds. On the way back from work today the wind was blowing strong from the south. Running at an indicated 75, a gust of wind, almost blew me out of my lane. I took the next exit.  So far it has only been a couple miles at a time, to and from work, but looking forward to some exploring around. I want to find some good spots for Sooter Tag. With Spring just around the corner this is a great thread. I've enjoyed playing,...gives you a reason to get off your Bum and go for a ride. Plus,...it's fun and keeps you alert and on your bike. You can also learn more about your town/city and surrounding areas. Loren. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 30, 2016 0:54:35 GMT -5
windy days can be a problem for any bike.
as a matter of fact i'm going to make a post about it in my safety thread.
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Post by JR on Jan 30, 2016 6:52:36 GMT -5
yelloscoot May I ask why you are even considering replacing the coil on a scooter that has one that is working perfectly? What do you expect to gain? 99% of all "so called" ignition upgrades are just that so called. As I said before if you want this scooter to run without issues, strip it down and do a PDI and I'm saying go through every connection plug, check for lose bolts, replace the pitiful tire valve stems, replace the brake fluid, coolant and tranny oil. Want a smooth ride get rid of the hard as concrete tires and replace them with some Avons. Replace dim bulbs with bright LEDs. Betting money the temp gauge is a loose wire. You'll not gain anything by changing the coil or CDI, waste of time and money. Also going to synthetic oil? The difference between dino oil and synthetic oil for a scooter is when you change the engine oil you'll be throwing away $10 a quart oil with synthetic versus $3 a quart oil with dino oil. In Texas where it is hot in the summer use a good grade 20W/50W oil, I use Catrol GT, got 15k on my 2008 model 250B and I have rode it to Dallas where my sons live on 5 different occasions 416 miles one way from my house. That's over 4k in miles on 5 trips. The last time two years ago I did it in July and the temp was 106F at 5 p.m. when I arrived. I drove the piss out of it that day, in fact I've never babied this scooter and all 15k miles have been on dino oil. It doesn't use a drop of oil and still runs like a scalded ape, it'll purr down the highway at 60mph + with no issues. My 250B is now 8 years old, still has every single thing on it OEM except the fuel pump and even then I didn't replace it because I had to I just put a Mikuni on it because I got a real steal off of Ebay for 4 of them for $5 each and put it on for the heck of it. When I say OEM I mean what makes it run CDI, coil stator, R/R, carb, etc. I did also add the taller GIVI windshield and LED's for brighter/safer lights. Do a great PDI, don't fix what isn't broke, change the oil and ride it. JR
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 30, 2016 9:43:16 GMT -5
Yelloscoot,
Have a bone for your diligence toward making your new scoot the best it can be!
JR does have some ideas there which might save you some time and money though... JR is pretty much a genius where scooters are concerned. (He really helped me out when I was new to scooters and being "tormented" by my Chinese 150... LOL!) He gets more trouble-free miles from his 250 than most of us will.
One suggestion he made that REALLY hit home was concerning your tires and valve-stems. My original Chinese valve-stems (on my Xyngyue 150) were downright dangerous. They were those right-angle brass extensions with rubber bases, and the brass was simply pressed into the base, and the bases deteriorated, allowing the brass stems to be easily pulled out or, BLOWN OUT while riding if I had been so unlucky... LOL!
The tires were those rock-hard Kenda 62 mph "J-rated" which were fine on the 150 up to its top speed of around 60 mph. HOWEVER, my old Kymco 250 also had those J-rated Kendas (brand-new on delivery) and they were definitely NOT good on "Minnie Mouse" At 100 pounds heavier, and 20 mph faster than the old 150, the Kendas were not adequate. I almost considered re-trading her on something else!
However, since I intended to run over 70 mph now and then, AND wanted whitewalls, I first did a trade with my dealer for a pair of 92 mph "P-rated" tires... A 120/70/12 SHINKO whitewall up front, and a 140/70/12 MICHELIN Power Pure in the rear to be the painted fake whitewall. (NOBODY makes a 140/70/12 whitewall) My dealer kindly traded the nearly-new Kendas for the cost of changing, mounting and balancing the new tires. He also researched the compatibility of the mixed brands.
I normally would not mix tire types/brands, but my desire for whitewalls got the best of me, and, both the Shinko and Michelin tires have proved to be GREAT, at any speed... including a very LONG downhill, tailwind romp on HWY 121, hitting an indicated 99 mph... Don't try that at home, kids... LOL!
I think some 250's wear J-rated tires because riders don't often ride over the 62 mph rating, but after experiencing the difference with name-brand P-rated meats, I'd even put them on a smaller, slower scoot for improvement in performance. They only cost a little more than the J-rated tires, but are a GOOD investment.
With the new tires, no exaggeration, Minnie Mouse was like a brand-new scooter! ALL handling problems were GONE! Previously I experienced that "rock-hard" ride, unsettling instability at 70 mph which WAS over the speed-rating of the tires and, had a miserable tendency to wobble when decelerating, especially at LOW speed.
Name-brand P-rated tires (professionally balanced) cured ALL that stuff... The Mouse "morphed" from feeling like junk, to feeling like a luxury Harley. She became a "keeper". I don't know what tires "Yin-Yang" came with, but if they're anything less than P-rated name-brands, you might be surprised at the difference tires like JR's suggested Avons might make.
You posted that Yin/Yang got a little squirrely at an indicated 75 mph in the wind. Sounds like you got a frisky one... That's probably at LEAST an honest 70+ mph! THAT is "haulin' the mail with authority" on a 250 scoot! GOOD TIRES do help, but our big windshields DO grab side-winds (a 900-pound Harely bagger will do the same... TRUST ME on THAT... LOL!) but if the bike is dialed-in, it's only a momentary thing and a little lean into, and back out again and all is well. You'll get used to it quickly and it won't be a big problem.
I'm no expert, but I would imagine the newer Chinese 250's are quite a bit more solidly built, with better components than the old 150's and should require less changing-out of OEM equipment.
I do agree with "If it ain't BROKE, don't FIX it..." LOL!
GREAT WEATHER predicted for the next few days! ENJOY the ride! Do some maintenance if needed, but RIDE if possible!
Leo (checkin' the tires and puttin' on a few miles gettin' groceries) in Texas
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Post by JR on Jan 30, 2016 11:39:13 GMT -5
oldchopperguy No way Leo! But I have learned some things about these machines the hard way and just like you as a person who has rode two wheels a long time there is PM, fixing and tinkering, the tinkering most of the time had me walking!  JR
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Post by rockynv on Jan 30, 2016 12:45:11 GMT -5
On a bike designed to take advantage of it synthetic is the only way to go. I get 6,500 miles between oil changes on my bike using synthetic and at 30,000 miles mostly at 50 to 80+ mph only the headlight bulbs, tires, belt and rollers have needed changing.
Valve adjustments tend to be required less often when using a synthetic oil too and you do get a few more mph top end from some bikes when using it.
I am in Florida so our 115 degree roadways can be a bit more brutal however the big clincher for me is that the manufacture specifies that synthetic is preferred for longest service life from the bike. I'll see at 50,000 and maybe 75,000 miles how that turns out.
Anyways if Jonway is machining the engines to tight specs then go synthetic if they have a real oil filter on that model. (I keep forgetting that some don't actually have an oil filter so the would see little benefit from the synthetic)
You'll go more miles between oil changes, minimize valve train wear, improve fuel economy and over the life of the bike your talking a few dollars a year difference in maintenance costs compared to potentially hundreds to over a thousand dollars saved. Yes its a roll of the dice but to many its worth it.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 30, 2016 13:32:32 GMT -5
when i first heard about the notorious valve stems i decided to check mine (a long time ago i might add).
the rubber was all dry rotted and i bent the stem over to give it a thorough checking out.
i was amazed the stem stayed in the wheel.
i removed both wheels, tire and all, and drove them down to the local tire shop to get those stems replaced.
about the engine oil, i used straight dino oil (valvoline 10W40), changed once a month.
my engine took slightly less than a quart per change, so the cost was minimal.
the final drive oil can go longer between changes because it doesn't collect combustion byproducts
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Post by rockynv on Jan 30, 2016 14:56:27 GMT -5
when i first heard about the notorious valve stems i decided to check mine (a long time ago i might add). the rubber was all dry rotted and i bent the stem over to give it a thorough checking out. i was amazed the stem stayed in the wheel. i removed both wheels, tire and all, and drove them down to the local tire shop to get those stems replaced. about the engine oil, i used straight dino oil (valvoline 10W40), changed once a month. my engine took slightly less than a quart per change, so the cost was minimal. the final drive oil can go longer between changes because it doesn't collect combustion byproducts Change mine once or twice per year and over the year I end up with a lower carbon footprint and the cost is even lower than going with dino oil and a more constant monthly oil change schedule. The correct 4T Dino Oil to use in a motorbike or scooter is $3.97 per quart at Walmart with the 4T Synthetic selling at $8.47 per quart. If your bike has a real oil filter your cost per year is at the most basic level $3.97 times 13 since most bikes take a hair over a quart or $51.61 not counting tax, cleaning supplies, trips to dispose of the old oil, O-Rings, etc compared to $17.48 for a $34.13 basic savings not counting the money saved on the 11 additional oil plug O-Rings, cleaner/rags for 11 additional cleanups and 11 additional quarts of oil to dispose of along with the tire wear and fuel consumed disposing of all that oil not to mention lost time. That is using Valvoline however if you switch to MagTech 4T Full Synthetic which is also respectable your costs go down to $5.30 per quart for a $10.60 annual cost saving $41.01 per year over using dino oil. If you have multiple bike in your family this could multiply and end up saving a few hundred dollars every year lowering your carbon foot print by 40 or 50 quarts of oil each year. Then there is the savings on oil filters needing only 1 per year compared to 6 or 12 which can be another $30 to $60 per bike. It can end up being the best of both worlds becoming a better steward of the environment and saving money along with potentially have a longer lasting better running bike. |
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 30, 2016 15:49:05 GMT -5
my engine only had the screen, and i never replaced the o-ring because it never leaked.
i always used regular car engine oil in my engine.
i probably could have gone longer between changes, but it was a habit i got into, and the cost wasn't prohibitive.
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