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Post by rockynv on Jan 23, 2016 2:18:03 GMT -5
(5) Fill radiator completely with coolant, a long funnel is nice and doesn't make a mess. [USE ONLY COOLANT FREE OF NITRATES, BORATES, SILICATES & SPECIFIED FOR ALUMINUM BLOCK ENGINES] One can mix their own coolant on a 50/50 ratio but it is a lot easier to use a 50/50 premix (I use Prestone) Acutally, the first thing I did, was change the coolant. THEN I found your Big Guy PDI thread. That got me wondering if I had used the right coolant or not... it's neon yellow. I'm still not sure and that bothers me. I've checked Prestone's website and don't find anything concerning the chemicals listed in your post. And nothing to specific for aluminum blocks. I'm using the 50/50 shown here at Prestone. Although mine doesn't say "NEW" like the link above.  Did I choose wisely? Loren The universal formula should be just fine. Here in Tampa Bay where the roadways get over 115 degrees in the 10 months of summer I am partial to Engine Ice. It is non toxic and it does what it claims for promoting better operation of the cooling system. After I flushed the old coolant out with white vinegar and distilled water and changed to the Engine Ice the bike does cool faster now. At traffic stops instead of the fan running continuously it cycles on for a very short while and then off for a minute or so until the light changes and while moving now the fan will rarely needs to turn on at all. Temperature gauge stays more steady and starts dropping moments after the fan cycles on so the change in temperature is hardly noticeable. I have been pleasantly surprised by how well it has met the claims of what its supposed to do. |
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 23, 2016 3:20:53 GMT -5
Loren,
Here's a rough idea of a Yin-Yang theme, lightly "ghosted"... The name, Yin Yang with the roundel on the nose, and a string of roundels on the rear plastic. The graphics could be masked off, then, a very light mist of thin black sprayed over to obtain the ghost effect. Just something to get the creative juices flowing... You may have to click on it and see it larger to see the light graphics. 
Enjoy...
Leo
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 23, 2016 12:09:36 GMT -5
rockynv oldchopperguy The airbrush work will have to wait until Spring so there's time to figure it out. Thanks Leo for getting the juices flowing.  But, for now, my concerns are with the Temperature Gauge and the Mirrors. I've adjusted the mirrors as high as I can get them without taking a chance of breaking them all together. Right now to use them is just plain dangerous and makes riding a bit unnerving by taking all attention off the road ahead. I can't just glance over and see behind me. I literally have to lean forward, duck down and shoulder check while the traffic is changing constantly ahead.  Have also adjusted the master cylinders as much as possible to get a little more upward movement. Problem there, is a TAB, that keeps the brake lines from twisting and coming loose (my best guess anyway) and are wedged between the tab and handlebar.    I could cut the tabs off, loosen the brake lines and turn the switch housings forward some more. That would also turn the brake handles down a little more. How far down I don't know unless I cut the tabs off. It's the same situation on both sides. ANY thoughts on doing this...?  I really like the look of mine and Parts For Scooters has similar if not the SAME one's in stock. I've emailed them for info, just awaiting a reply. Maybe theirs have more adjustment.(fingers crossed) I know there's a ton of different mirrors available, but, not to my liking. No Skeleton Hands, Dagger Styles or the little one's that belong on a child's Tricycle. Just a nice clean look.  Loren (Can't see what's in the rear view) in Dallas.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 23, 2016 20:51:21 GMT -5
Yellowscoot,
The mirror issue IS a real bite! I had that same trouble with my Xingyue 150, and reamed out the bottoms of the holes in the mirror-posts to a "flare". Then used a disk-sander to change the angle of the bottoms slightly to be perpendicular to the front of the tapered hole. That allowed the posts to be angled more forward, but only a little. It WAS enough though.
When you do that, you ARE risking cracking the thinned-out base of the mirror-posts though... Also, try loosening the mounts and see if maybe they already ARE factory-made angle-adjustable at the mounting bolt. Some actually are!
Also, do check to see if maybe your mirrors are adjustable WITHIN their housings. SOME, but not ALL mirrors like these ARE adjustable with the glass moving inside the housing, and may be very stiff! My Kymco is like that. I can push the glass mirrors around, left, right, up and down inside the housings like on many cars. At first, I couldn't figure out HOW the mirrors would work, down at knee-level... LOL!
The aftermarket mirrors in your link look good. They appear to have a "ball-joint" adjustment at the mirrors which would be great! Their other model with signals built in look like they might have the mirror-glass moveable inside the housing too.
If nothing else, I'm sure there are some bolt-on mirrors with plenty of adjustment at the mirrors themselves.
I see no harm in removing the stops at the brake-lines, but don't end up moving the levers to an uncomfortable position to get the mirrors right. You CAN get the mirrors right one way or another. With levers out-of-whack with your wrists, one day you'll start hating to ride, and not really know why! Really!
Concerning the water-temp gauge, if you just can't get the factory gauge operational, I'd still suggest checking into a simple, old-school add-on gauge like the 1950's Stewart/Warner gauges. I had those on my old cars for oil and water temp, and ammeter. Some were mechanical and some were electronic, and I would think an electronic sender could be spliced into a water line without much trouble. I'll see what I can find.
Hey! I just noticed your "signature"... You got FUEL-INJECTION? Very cool! You got Minnie Mouse one-upped there! She's an old carbureted hoss...
The mirrors and gauge are technically "small problems" but are MAJOR ones until fixed... I do understand!
It's "supposed" to get up in the 60's in a day or so... SO...
Ride safe!
Leo
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 23, 2016 21:25:26 GMT -5
Hey! I just noticed your "signature"... You got FUEL-INJECTION? Very cool! You got Minnie Mouse one-upped there! She's an old carbureted hoss...  DO I?....Where??
As far as I know, it's carb'ed. Unless you see something I'm missing. That would be nice though. Loren (dreaming about be injected) in Dallas. |
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 23, 2016 21:45:12 GMT -5
Hey! I just noticed your "signature"... You got FUEL-INJECTION? Very cool! You got Minnie Mouse one-upped there! She's an old carbureted hoss...
As far as I know, it's carb'ed. Unless you see something I'm missing. That would be nice though. Loren (dreaming about be injected) in Dallas.
Loren,
My mistake... Your signature shows "Fuelly" by your mpg note. I thought that meant Fuel Injection... Duh... Old age brain-fart...
Anyway, I just perused eBay's offerings for temp-gauges and the selection never ends! There are NUMEROUS 12V gauges from $10 to "way too much". Most register in Celsius but Fahrenheit versions are available for us on this side of the pond... Below are pix of a typical setup; a sending adapter to splice into the coolant-line, and, a gauge with sender.
The sending adapter may be larger than the hoses on our scoots, but if it is, that should be fixable with bits of tubing.
I particularly dislike the bar-graph gauges on my Kymco, and this looks so simple that I may add one to my own ride!
These parts are VERY affordable, with FREE shipping... Just check out "temp gauge" on eBay and you'll find PAGES of them!
Hope this helps,
Leo
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 23, 2016 21:59:42 GMT -5
oldchopperguy Thanks for the input on cutting the tabs off. That will probably be the route that I decide to take. But I will check the mount first. I hadn't thought of that. The mirrors in the link, I believe, are the same as mine and don't have a way to adjust them inside the housing. The one's with the signal are the type I have on Yellow, which, do adjust inside. I still need to check all the connections for the water-temp gauge. I'm still waiting on some warmer weather to start removing any major plastics for fear of breaking in the cold weather. I'd like them to be a little more pliable while I'm figuring out how to remove them. Like you say...in the 60's tomorrow. Loren
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 23, 2016 22:25:18 GMT -5
Loren,
My mistake... Your signature shows "Fuelly" by your mpg note. I thought that meant Fuel Injection... Duh... Old age brain-fart...
Anyway, I just perused eBay's offerings for temp-gauges and the selection never ends! There are NUMEROUS 12V gauges from $10 to "way too much". Most register in Celsius but Fahrenheit versions are available for us on this side of the pond...
I was hoping I had missed something. LOL I'm starting to have eBay withdraws. I haven't had any deliveries since last week. I'll take a look quick and add some stuff to my collection for future reference. Once I can get to the connections and the instrument panel I'll know more. If need be I'll take it apart and check it out too. I want to check the trip odometer also, maybe, adjust and oil it up some. If the gauge is bad, it would be nice, to replace it with one from eBay in the original spot. I have found a new gauge cluster for as low as $50. But then I lose my "TRUE" mileage... Loren |
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jan 23, 2016 22:31:47 GMT -5
Please DO check possible mirror-adjustment options before moving the brake-line "banjo-bolts"... If you DO, just "crack" them loose the least amount needed to twist the lines. And don't squeeze the brake levers while the banjos are loosened. If air gets in there, you'll need to bleed the brakes and that's somewhat of a pain... LOL!
I've got a thousand things that need doing, but if it gets to the sixties tomorrow, I'll surely do SOME of them on the scoot, dirty, raggedy and all... Plenty of time to get her shined-up in a couple of months when it warms up for real!
Ride safe,
Leo
PS: I wouldn't be all that disappointed about having a CARBURETOR... They are easy to comprehend, and work just fine! I think over the long haul, a carb might even be a little less trouble-prone than injection, but I know many would argue THAT with me... Just an old-guy's opinion... LOL!
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 23, 2016 23:13:19 GMT -5
Please DO check possible mirror-adjustment options before moving the brake-line "banjo-bolts"... If you DO, just "crack" them loose the least amount needed to twist the lines. And don't squeeze the brake levers while the banjos are loosened. If air gets in there, you'll need to bleed the brakes and that's somewhat of a pain... LOL! .......... PS: I wouldn't be all that disappointed about having a CARBURETOR... They are easy to comprehend, and work just fine! I think over the long haul, a carb might even be a little less trouble-prone than injection, but I know many would argue THAT with me... Just an old-guy's opinionow itn... LOL!I still need to change out the brake fluid anyway. Already have a new, unopened, bottle and purchased a vacuum bleed kit from HF a couple weeks ago. SO...now it's a matter of Gitten'er Done. A Two-Birds/One Stone kinda thing. No,...I'm not disappointed with having a carb. I even wish this bike was air-cooled. At least there's no Body Control Computers and sensors out the Wha-zoo on these things. Loren |
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 24, 2016 10:02:41 GMT -5
oldchopperguy rockynv dollartwentyfive I was able to get the Iridium plug in last night with the help of a friend. I have had this new Orange Coil for a while now, bought it for my Red Sicily 150cc, but never installed it.  Quick question: Will this coil work if installed on the YY250T ?
If so, then I'll get that done today also. Thanks, Loren
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 24, 2016 13:28:14 GMT -5
oldchopperguy As I was going through the Honda Reflex Manual PDF, I found a diagram of the brake handle and "Banjo Bolts", that shows to replace the copper washers with new when changing. This got me to wondering if it would be safe to loosen them and not replace them. I just don't want any leaks.  Part of me says, yes it's safe, the other part says get new.  EDIT: After posting this, I did some Google'n, and found out that copper washers can be re-used after Annealing with a torch to soften the copper again. Just need to get buy a torch if I do it this way. Thanks in advance for any input. Loren
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 24, 2016 15:51:56 GMT -5
oldchopperguy Update: All done with the mirror problem. Went ahead and cut off the tabs, loosened the Banjo Bolt (slightly) and the handlebar clamps. Then, gave each one, a little twist and tightened everything up again. This worked out great and only took about 15 minutes. After a short test ride, it was nice to see, the road behind me and the brakes worked fine. Now, there's even room to adjust them downward if needed. I didn't need to bleed the brakes and the handles aren't much lower or even noticeable than before. I will however, keep an eye open for any small leaks just in case, though I don't expect any. As with anything I do on my bikes, there is always that short period of time, to gain 100% trust.  Now I can keep my mirrors and actually use them safely. Thanks for the input, Loren, having my cake and eating it too, in Texas.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 24, 2016 15:55:04 GMT -5
i never replaced any of my copper washers, and they are used in a number of places on my ride.
the final drive fill hole, the external oil line, and the master cylinders.
i lost one that went on the external oil line and made a replacement made of a piece of index card.
it didn't leak.
i've removed the brake lines from the master cylinders and didn't do anything to the washers before putting them back on and they didn't leak.
also, i believe one of my cylinders (left) couldn't be rotated up or down because the mount was welded to the handle bar.
the mirror mounts were also welded to the bars.
the mirrors were adjusted by moving the mirrors themselves, not the mount.
i'll agree that these mirrors leave a lot to be desired, mine were practically useless, and i got in the habit of glancing back (turning my head to look).
the coil should be fine, the OEM coil that shipped with my ride never gave me any problems with the iridium plug.
pricey little snots aren't they, but it cured my rough idle and rough running.
you shouldn't have any problems with that plug for at least 10,000 miles.
one other thing i would like to mention, and that's in regards to valve adjustment.
follow hondas method in an official honda service manual.
i tried the "engine running" method and it ruined my exhaust adjuster.
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Post by yelloscoot on Jan 24, 2016 16:30:23 GMT -5
dollartwentyfive Yes, after replacing the stock with the Iridium, the idle did jump up a bit. The pick-up is better though, or, maybe that's just in my head. So, do you think, the Orange Coil(purchased for a 150cc) will work? I don't want to burn up the CDI or anything.  Yes, I came across that earlier when I was going through the Manual. Nothing like the videos I've seen with the engine running. I haven't read into much detail about it yet, until I'm ready, still another 500 miles or so. Thanks, Loren
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