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Post by pistonguy on Dec 27, 2015 7:57:10 GMT -5
Your Symptoms aside. What the Piston look like After Any Seize. yo have your Old Trophy around to post up a pic? A Classic Cold Seize. Yes it did run enough to limp home. mine would only turn about a half rev then drag through the rest of the cycle. i tried to start it immediately after it died, and twice more, once when i got it to a friends house, then again after i got it home. same symptoms. i never tried it again until after i repaired the cooling system 2 or 3 days later. i didn't expect it to start, but it did, and i put a lot of miles on it after that with no apparent engine damage. I'm helpin bucktwenty with a misunderstanding of what any type of Piston Seize is, That's what a piston guy does. Hard Seize, Soft Seize, Cold Seize and all the others has Moved Material, Smeared or Scuffed, the Material Became Liquid. The Heat Treat has Also Been Removed and Any Piston Once this Happens, will be Butter. It Will Not and Cant Fix Itself. Ya can't fix it with Emory Cloth, Heat Treat Removed will do it again in short order. Here is a Hot Rod Piston Seizure, Oh and this Piston has the "Wont Seize, Last Forever" Skirt Coating. The Seizure Started on the Opposite Corner and Commonly Pushes the Piston into its opposite Corner and Seizing it there. Yes this Tech. Did try to Spiff Up with Emory and Didn't Last thru the Warm Up.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 27, 2015 10:16:52 GMT -5
I'm helpin bucktwenty with a misunderstanding of what any type of Piston Seize is, That's what a piston guy does. Ya can't fix it with Emory Cloth, Heat Treat Removed will do it again in short order. i'm just telling you the symptoms i had, and i called it a soft seize. i didn't mention ANYTHING about fixing it with emory cloth. what would you like for me to call it?
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 27, 2015 11:17:33 GMT -5
Guys! How about we try and guide Murky through this a step at a time, so he has at least a LITTLE chance of figuring out what is going on? Sure - this COULD be a bunch of things --- but if he is hopping about from one theory to the next he will never, ever, get anywhere. This stuff is interesting to us (esp the stuff P-Guy posts, which is REALLY interesting always) ... I feel we are doing more to confuse than to help at this point. First step - see if the starter or clutch is causing the inability to turn over. ps: dollar - a 150 does not have a bolt on the starter but a screw hole. And the motor, while in fact a torquey little thing, is not at all as torquey as that in a 244cc engine. You can easily hold it in your hand while running it. With the spark plug removed the starter keeps spinning it doesn't stop Now does this mean the starter motor isn't putting out enough power to start the engine? If so how does the starter suddenly not being strong enough make the scooter die while mid ride? About the second part of your comment: The failed starter does NOT have anything to do with why your scooter initially died while you were riding. But, until you get it to where it turns over normally you can't measure compression or do anything at all to figure out what's going on. And maybe - just maybe - once the starter works properly the thing will start up. I kind of doubt it - thinking you might still have a fuel delivery problem or something - but till it's turning over nothing more can be done. If you didn't put a BBK in you probably do not "need" a high torque starter and can "probably" get away with a cheaper China standard one. Also - if you still have your original, OEM CDI I'd put it back in (presuming it works) until the engine is running. Advanced angle CDIs advance the point of ignition all the time - including at very low RPMs (like when you are trying to get the engine to start) and make starting much more difficult. They work better than stock once the engine is going, but make starting more difficult. So .... till the engine is running, best to use the OEM one.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 27, 2015 12:52:30 GMT -5
I'm helpin bucktwenty with a misunderstanding of what any type of Piston Seize is, That's what a piston guy does. Ya can't fix it with Emory Cloth, Heat Treat Removed will do it again in short order. i'm just telling you the symptoms i had, and i called it a soft seize. i didn't mention ANYTHING about fixing it with emory cloth. what would you like for me to call it? I didn't state you said to fix it with Emory. Since you stated you had a Cold Seize I Incorrectly Assumed you Confirmed with Parts in Hand and Knew The Definition of Any Seize Hard or Soft. missed a point my bad. I thouhg My pics of Seizures would help Any Seize, Hard, Soft or anywhere in-between the Piston is Destroyed and Non Repairable. If operator continues catastrophic engine failure will happen. www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/SeizureHope another defining Seizure helps. If Any Seizure happened to your machine it just didn't go away with no apparent engine damage. A Seizure alone Is Severe Engine Damage.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 27, 2015 13:05:58 GMT -5
I did Fail to mention in this lil pup bathing in Oil. In a Sever over heat close to a Seizure will Cook that Compression Ring and it will Collapse 60-80% Ive had rings Weld in the Groove, Stick, Cool, Pop Out but Only to Be Collapsed by the number above. ya wont have snit or greatly reduced compression. And Don't think ya can get by by trowin on a new ring cuz again Heat Treat (Temper) is now gone from the piston and will pound a hole thru that puppy before the end of a twenty + 2 moto.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 27, 2015 16:30:40 GMT -5
i'm just telling you the symptoms i had, and i called it a soft seize. i didn't mention ANYTHING about fixing it with emory cloth. what would you like for me to call it? I didn't state you said to fix it with Emory. Since you stated you had a Cold Seize I Incorrectly Assumed you Confirmed with Parts in Hand and Knew The Definition of Any Seize Hard or Soft. missed a point my bad. I thouhg My pics of Seizures would help Any Seize, Hard, Soft or anywhere in-between the Piston is Destroyed and Non Repairable. If operator continues catastrophic engine failure will happen. www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/SeizureHope another defining Seizure helps. If Any Seizure happened to your machine it just didn't go away with no apparent engine damage. A Seizure alone Is Severe Engine Damage. the only reason i mentioned my situation is because the symptoms were similar to the OP. it was a warm day, and i was running WOT down some back roads. came to a stop sign, and when i got stopped i noticed a faint tapping or ticking type noise. i assumed i would need to adjust the valves when i got home and off i went. at this time the scoot was probably drained of coolant. i got maybe a mile further down the road, and the engine wound down and quit. i tried to restart it but the starter would spin normally then drag. i raised the seat to have a look, and i knew as soon as i raised it, it was bad news. the heat was unbelievable and the block was smoking. i felt the radiator and it was cold. i checked the oil, and i noticed the dipstick was partially melted. i push it about a mile to the next house where i left it. a couple hours later i finally got it home. tried to start it again, the same thing with the starter. at this point i didn't have much hope of it ever running again. i got the cooling system all patched up, and got it back on the road. the only thing i can figure that saved that engine was the roller bearings it uses for the crank journals. so, instead of going into all the above dialog, i call it a soft seize. that pretty well implies running an engine so hot it dies. that is a different animal than running an engine without oil.
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Post by pistonguy on Dec 27, 2015 17:49:34 GMT -5
I didn't state you said to fix it with Emory. Since you stated you had a Cold Seize I Incorrectly Assumed you Confirmed with Parts in Hand and Knew The Definition of Any Seize Hard or Soft. missed a point my bad. I thouhg My pics of Seizures would help Any Seize, Hard, Soft or anywhere in-between the Piston is Destroyed and Non Repairable. If operator continues catastrophic engine failure will happen. www.mopedarmy.com/wiki/SeizureHope another defining Seizure helps. If Any Seizure happened to your machine it just didn't go away with no apparent engine damage. A Seizure alone Is Severe Engine Damage. the only reason i mentioned my situation is because the symptoms were similar to the OP. it was a warm day, and i was running WOT down some back roads. came to a stop sign, and when i got stopped i noticed a faint tapping or ticking type noise. i assumed i would need to adjust the valves when i got home and off i went. at this time the scoot was probably drained of coolant. i got maybe a mile further down the road, and the engine wound down and quit. i tried to restart it but the starter would spin normally then drag. i raised the seat to have a look, and i knew as soon as i raised it, it was bad news. the heat was unbelievable and the block was smoking. i felt the radiator and it was cold. i checked the oil, and i noticed the dipstick was partially melted. i push it about a mile to the next house where i left it. a couple hours later i finally got it home. tried to start it again, the same thing with the starter. at this point i didn't have much hope of it ever running again. i got the cooling system all patched up, and got it back on the road. the only thing i can figure that saved that engine was the roller bearings it uses for the crank journals. so, instead of going into all the above dialog, i call it a soft seize. that pretty well implies running an engine so hot it dies. that is a different animal than running an engine without oil. Your Symptoms aside. verbiage needs to be Technically correct when offering Diagnosis and advice on engine internal hard parts I provided a link to define a Seizure for you. whatever type. A Seizure in any form needs to be called and defined what it is. Was no need for me to go on the Many different ways to Seize a Piston A Heart Attack taint a Stroke right? Since your machine started up later, never put hard parts in your hands and rode happily ever after you have no idea what happened. I don't have and can't find a name for that. Gremlins
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 27, 2015 19:12:11 GMT -5
verbiage needs to be Technically correct when offering Diagnosis and advice on engine internal hard parts i gave to the technical aspects of the symptoms, in very clear language, far clearer than your post 169. it's probably due more to the design of the 244 and to the quality of parts the chinese used in it. by all rights, i should have at least expected a blown head gasket. all i know is, i was riding that thing hard when it died. and i can't find a better term to apply to the situation than a soft seize. i do not care to comment further on this, okay?
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 27, 2015 22:06:45 GMT -5
With the spark plug removed the starter keeps spinning it doesn't stop Now does this mean the starter motor isn't putting out enough power to start the engine? If so how does the starter suddenly not being strong enough make the scooter die while mid ride? About the second part of your comment: The failed starter does NOT have anything to do with why your scooter initially died while you were riding. But, until you get it to where it turns over normally you can't measure compression or do anything at all to figure out what's going on. And maybe - just maybe - once the starter works properly the thing will start up. I kind of doubt it - thinking you might still have a fuel delivery problem or something - but till it's turning over nothing more can be done. If you didn't put a BBK in you probably do not "need" a high torque starter and can "probably" get away with a cheaper China standard one. Also - if you still have your original, OEM CDI I'd put it back in (presuming it works) until the engine is running. Advanced angle CDIs advance the point of ignition all the time - including at very low RPMs (like when you are trying to get the engine to start) and make starting much more difficult. They work better than stock once the engine is going, but make starting more difficult. So .... till the engine is running, best to use the OEM one. Let me ask you this, when I removed my starter, I put my hand in where the male end of the starter went, i can turn the gear that is in there very easily (only counter clockwise) and it wobbles from side to side (it isn't held firm) does this all sound correct?
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 27, 2015 22:27:32 GMT -5
Yep - providing the spark plug is out. Teeth look good. you should be able to grasp the variator (or fan, if the shroud is off) and easily turn the engine (proper direction only). See - w/o the plug there is no compression; the weak starter easily turns the engine since there is little resistance to turning. But with the plug in the moment the piston travels up and compresses what's in the cylinder chamber, there is a huge resistance built up. That's what stops the starter motor from being able to continue to turn the engine. But with the plug out it turns simply and easily. The odds of a "soft seize" or a grabbing starter clutch are slim since neither shows up with the plug removed. Still, no guarantees ... but step 1 should be to get a known good starter.
ps: not to confuse you are this stage - get the starter motor and THEN move on - but thinking forward of what MIGHT then pop up. In thinking about why your scooter initially stopped, one possibility is it ran out of gas. Even if there is gas in the gas tank, if that gas doesn't get into the carb your engine runs out of gas and coasts to a halt, and then will not start again. There are several possible causes (including at THIS moment, with a failed starter motor and no engine turning, lack of vacuum - which is needed for gas to get to the carb). But the specific design of YOUR scooter comes into play. So ---- is your gas tank below the floor, or above the engine (asking to find out if gravity alone would be enough to get gas from the tank to the carb).
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Post by murkyapricot on Dec 27, 2015 22:49:38 GMT -5
Yep - providing the spark plug is out. Teeth look good. you should be able to grasp the variator (or fan, if the shroud is off) and easily turn the engine (proper direction only). See - w/o the plug there is no compression; the weak starter easily turns the engine since there is little resistance to turning. But with the plug in the moment the piston travels up and compresses what's in the cylinder chamber, there is a huge resistance built up. That's what stops the starter motor from being able to continue to turn the engine. But with the plug out it turns simply and easily. The odds of a "soft seize" or a grabbing starter clutch are slim since neither shows up with the plug removed. Still, no guarantees ... but step 1 should be to get a known good starter. ps: not to confuse you are this stage - get the starter motor and THEN move on - but thinking forward of what MIGHT then pop up. In thinking about why your scooter initially stopped, one possibility is it ran out of gas. Even if there is gas in the gas tank, if that gas doesn't get into the carb your engine runs out of gas and coasts to a halt, and then will not start again. There are several possible causes (including at THIS moment, with a failed starter motor and no engine turning, lack of vacuum - which is needed for gas to get to the carb). But the specific design of YOUR scooter comes into play. So ---- is your gas tank below the floor, or above the engine (asking to find out if gravity alone would be enough to get gas from the tank to the carb). It's above but i have clear lines and i can see it trickling down Also does any of this offer an explanation as to why my kick starter was jammed and unable to move. I have not used it much but the few times i did it worked fine
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 27, 2015 23:50:06 GMT -5
That's pretty common - not any kind of a sign. I just removed the entire kick starter because it was useless and I got tired of messing with it to get it to do it's job.
BTW - I would think your clear fuel line would be 100% full of gas - not empty with 'some' trickling down. There is a valve inside the carb that actually allows the right amount of fuel in - there should be a constant supply to the carb, not a trickle. Maybe when you say 'trickle' you mean something other than what I'm thinking - but I would expect the line to be completely full all the time with not much evidence of movement (since it's full).
For an 'above engine" fuel tank you will probably not have an actual fuel pump (the fuel gets to the carb simply by gravity), but you WILL have a vacuum-operated petcock. This shuts off the fuel supply when the engine is off, so the fuel does not over time drain thru the carb. If there is no engine vacuum (for example, engine 'off' - or, starter not working properly) the petcock will remain closed and little or no gas will get to the carb. A 'trickle' might indicate a partial clog (or malfunction) so that not ENOUGH fuel gets to the carb, especially at open throttle like when you were last riding. Then you get no gas and the engine dies. This can also be caused by a vacuum LEAK (very, very common).
Once you get a functioning starter - presuming your scooter doesn't just fire up and run - these things can be sorted thru.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 6:34:09 GMT -5
Let me ask you this, when I removed my starter, I put my hand in where the male end of the starter went, i can turn the gear that is in there very easily (only counter clockwise) and it wobbles from side to side (it isn't held firm) does this all sound correct? yes, a starter clutch turns freely in one direction but not in the other. yes, there will be a slight side to side wiggle in the outside gear (there are 2 pieces to the clutch), the inside part is bolted to the crank (mine is bolted to the magneto) the other rides on the outside of this bolted on piece. before anyone starts getting crazy, there are more than 2 pieces to the clutch, i'm just trying to make this simple for the OP to understand why there would be some wiggle. i don't know how much wiggle you should have, but i assume it wouldn't be much. i'm not sure how your instincts are, but if you feel like this wiggle is excessive then i would replace the starter clutch. i would go with getting another starter. i would also be looking for some specs for your starter clutch, how much side to side play it should have. like i said, it will have some, but it won't be much.
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Post by dollartwentyfive on Dec 28, 2015 6:44:22 GMT -5
a good way to determine if the starter clutch is slipping, is to watch the variator as you try to start the engine. the variator should turn as long as the starter is engaged.
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 28, 2015 10:41:35 GMT -5
About the second part of your comment: The failed starter does NOT have anything to do with why your scooter initially died while you were riding. But, until you get it to where it turns over normally you can't measure compression or do anything at all to figure out what's going on. And maybe - just maybe - once the starter works properly the thing will start up. I kind of doubt it - thinking you might still have a fuel delivery problem or something - but till it's turning over nothing more can be done. If you didn't put a BBK in you probably do not "need" a high torque starter and can "probably" get away with a cheaper China standard one. Also - if you still have your original, OEM CDI I'd put it back in (presuming it works) until the engine is running. Advanced angle CDIs advance the point of ignition all the time - including at very low RPMs (like when you are trying to get the engine to start) and make starting much more difficult. They work better than stock once the engine is going, but make starting more difficult. So .... till the engine is running, best to use the OEM one. Let me ask you this, when I removed my starter, I put my hand in where the male end of the starter went, i can turn the gear that is in there very easily (only counter clockwise) and it wobbles from side to side (it isn't held firm) does this all sound correct? Just a note to avoid confusion. When you reach into the opening for the starter motor and wiggle the gear - YOU ARE NOT EVEN TOUCHING THE STARTER CLUTCH. What you are feeling is the idle gear, which in turn mates with the teeth of the starter clutch. So, what you are wiggling is simply the idle gear, not the starter clutch. So, to be clear: the teeth on the end of your starter motor turn the idle gear; the idle gear in turn mates with and turns the starter clutch. Wiggling of the idle gear has nothing at all to do with the starter clutch. This video by Dan Martin shows the installation of the 2 main components on that side of the crankcase - the oil pump and starter clutch (with it's idle gear dropped in at the last minute). Ship to 5:30 on the video to see how the starter clutch goes in. This will show you also that the pilot gear is not at all the starter clutch, and wiggling the pilot gear is not at all wiggling the clutch. www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/289-how-to-install-high-flow-oil-pump-and-performance-starter-clutch/
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