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Post by scripting25 on Oct 15, 2015 7:58:33 GMT -5
I will do that test when I get home later mftic, thank you.
My question is...if it's not a gas issue or gas vacuum issue, what could it be?
Also, I was watching a video a bit ago and the guy says to spray carb cleaner all over the carb as it's running. If the idle changes at all, that could represent an intake leak around the intake manifold. I'm gonna do this test eventually too. See this video around the 1:30 mark:
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Post by jugdish on Oct 15, 2015 11:54:44 GMT -5
I believe you're right about the function of the carb bowl hose. It is mainly for troubleshooting. I pulled my intake manifold and gasket and am going to replace the gasket. There is an 'O' ring that sits on the gasket and it was very flat, old. Maybe when the engine gets warm and the metal expands, there is a bit of a gap for air. I could have tried spraying while it was running, but already had too much taken apart. I'm also going to order fuel and vacuum line from scrappydog parts. The lines I've bought from area parts stores I think are SAE sizes? It seems the original tubes are mm?
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Post by scripting25 on Oct 15, 2015 20:39:29 GMT -5
Alright gang. I did some testing today and took notes.
So I started by taking a casual ride around the hood. Ran like a champ. I decided to start by checking the carb drain hose while the scooter was running fine. Does fuel come out after successfully riding around? Yes.
Does it spit fuel out the drain hose while trying to crank over, again after the scooter ran fine? Yes.
So now I plug the carb drain hose back up. Now it doesn't want to start. It's exhibiting the same symptoms as before, won't stay running, sounds like gas isn't getting in. Seems I've made it mad.
So... since it's angry and won't stay running, lets test with carb cleaner.
Lets spray carb cleaner on the back of the carb, the exhaust side I guess. What does it do? Now its really mad and doesn't even want to kick over. I tried a few times, nothing.
Ok, lets spray carb cleaner on the front of the carb, intake side I guess. What does it do? It starts up and runs. Hmm... could be coincidence but it is running now.
So with it running I spray carb cleaner alllllll over the intake, what does it do, does the idle rev up? No, nothing changes. Still idling fine. Zero change.
With it still running, I spray carb cleaner allllll over the exhaust side, what does it do, does the idle rev up? No, nothing changes. Still idling fine. Zero change.
Lets go for a test ride since it's running ok.
30' down the road.... it dies out.
Ok, so it crapped out. Does fuel come out the carb drain hose? Yes.
Does fuel come out while still unplugged and trying to start it? Yes
So.....I put it away for the night.
I still have my wife's carb in my scoot. However, I am still using my auto choke thing. It was easier to take the 2 screws out and disconnect the auto choke and re-use it as opposed to un-wiring it all the way and using her's. Perhaps the auto choke isn't disengaging? I'll use her's tomorrow and test that next but wanted to get my testing details out to you guys for more advise.
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Post by mftic on Oct 16, 2015 7:58:32 GMT -5
You have way more patience than i sir.
From what little i understand. Probably not a fuel issue. Most likely not a vacuum issue. Most likely not a chock/enrichener issue (should still run/won't just cut out if it works,doesn''t) I'd be willing to bet it's also not an air issue either. Lastly is a spark issue. Other than seeing if you have spark when it won't start...I don't know how to start problem solving that issue when it runs sometimes and sometimes doesn't.
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Post by cyborg on Oct 16, 2015 8:19:55 GMT -5
late to the party again as usual,,,does the vacuum line to the auto fuel tap have fuel in it??? perhaps the diaphragm has a hole in it,,,on the electrical side try running a ground to the engine,,,frame to a valve cover bolt,,,i've seen bad engine grounds create running issues,,,start fine then die out when warm,,(,an edit,,,check your exhaust also,,,a restricted exhaust will create conditions such as this as well,,a pinched pipe or internal collapse in the silencer will cause a no run issue as well when under load,,,but idle fine)
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Post by scripting25 on Oct 16, 2015 10:09:59 GMT -5
late to the party again as usual,,,does the vacuum line to the auto fuel tap have fuel in it??? perhaps the diaphragm has a hole in it,,,on the electrical side try running a ground to the engine,,,frame to a valve cover bolt,,,i've seen bad engine grounds create running issues,,,start fine then die out when warm,,(,an edit,,,check your exhaust also,,,a restricted exhaust will create conditions such as this as well,,a pinched pipe or internal collapse in the silencer will cause a no run issue as well when under load,,,but idle fine) I'm not sure what the vacuum line to the auto fuel tap is....what is that? and I'll check to see if it has fuel in it. (however, if you're talking about the vacuum line that runs from the petcock to a Y splitter, I don't think it has gas in it but can double check) Can you tell me which line you're talking about via this pic? Can anyone tell me if any of these hose's can be removed while we're at it? I'll definitely check for a ground issue and I'll look over the exhaust. All great idea's., thanks!
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Post by cyborg on Oct 16, 2015 11:42:45 GMT -5
yes the one with the Y,,,pull it from the manifold,,,it should be dry with no liquid fuel in it,,,if there is pull the individual lines off the Y and find out which one has the fuel in it,,,
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Post by jugdish on Oct 16, 2015 12:23:02 GMT -5
Hey all, good testing script. Is it possible rocker arms freeze up or maybe valve sticks causing a loss of compression? Between script and myself, I think we've replaced about every external part possible. I'm still gonna replace intake manifold gasket and see what it does. It seems like starting after a cool down period means hot engine and expanded metal = vacuum leak.
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Post by scripting25 on Oct 16, 2015 15:43:06 GMT -5
Alright peeps, today's update is as follows: Switching out the automatic choke thing didn't make a difference. No fuel comes out the Y connector hose line, I checked it by unplugging from the manifold.
Volt meter reads a good 12V+ from positive terminal to valve cover head. With motor off. Reads a touch better with motor running.
It reads nothing from negative terminal to valve cover head with motor off. It reads -1 with motor turned on from negative terminal to valve cover head. Is that normal?
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 16, 2015 18:40:33 GMT -5
To test the enricher (not a choke), hook up leads from it to the battery while it's cold. If the probe extends out about 1/4" in 2-5 minutes, it's working.
I don't recall if you got it to sputter out at anything other than WOT riding? If it only happens at WOT, it could still be a vacuum issue. At WOT, the engine produces less vacuum, which could prevent the fuel petcock from functioning. You may still find fuel in the bowl due to the vacuum coming back as the engine winds down.
Time to check the opposite out, what color is the ceramic on your spark plug (best to check with a new plug, but the old one may give a clue), and what height is the needle clip set at?
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Post by scripting25 on Oct 17, 2015 9:06:03 GMT -5
Here's a pic of the current spark plug. I can get a new spark later and test. The issue I'm having can be triggered by simply riding around a little bit, not having to be WOT. I actually made it mad the other day by releasing the carb overflow hose. I plugged the hose back up and the scoot was not wanting to run right. Is this where I would check the clip? If so, how do I get the needle out of the harness? I tried to twist and pull but doesn't want to come out and I don't want to break it.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 17, 2015 9:43:40 GMT -5
I don't think the needle can be taken out.
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Post by JoeyBee on Oct 17, 2015 11:37:08 GMT -5
There is usually a Phillips head screw that sits inside where the needle head sits. Unscrew that, then the needle should fall out.
And obviously the spark plug looks like you are running way to rich.
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Post by JerryScript on Oct 17, 2015 19:02:09 GMT -5
There is usually a Phillips head screw that sits inside where the needle head sits. Unscrew that, then the needle should fall out. And obviously the spark plug looks like you are running way to rich. Agreed, that plug looks almost fouled from being too rich.
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Post by scripting25 on Oct 18, 2015 9:06:15 GMT -5
Ok after watching videos, I know where the Philips screw should be but it looks like mine isn't adjustable Perhaps I can order a adjustable diaphragm? Or is there a way to get mine out without killing it? That center piece doesn't want to come out. I tried unscrewing and pulling on it. It looks like a cover but seems to be all 1 piece.
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