|
|
Post by JerryScript on Oct 18, 2015 18:34:59 GMT -5
I'm sure that piece comes out, but you could break it trying.
Personal pref, I would buy a new fully adjustable carb.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 13 
Likes: 3
Joined: Oct 11, 2015 20:41:48 GMT -5
|
Post by jugdish on Oct 18, 2015 22:25:43 GMT -5
He swapped his out for one he knows works, and symptoms are still the same.
|
|
|
|
Post by JerryScript on Oct 18, 2015 23:18:32 GMT -5
The working one works on a different engine. Carbs must be tuned to the engine they are on, including the needle height. This may be a red herring, but a fully adjustable carb is cheap, and makes tuning so much easier.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
Joined: Mar 4, 2013 16:47:16 GMT -5
|
Post by scripting25 on Oct 19, 2015 8:16:22 GMT -5
I'll get a new spark plug and test soon. the current plug might look bad since the scooter has been acting up for a while, and die'ing and sputtering out hasn't helped it's look too I'm sure.
I'll also check around to see if I can an adjustable needle diaphragm that can drop in.
I'll look at getting an adjustable carb if not.
That's fine and dandy but I don't see how that will help resolve the issue it's having unless by it running to rich cause's the motor to stop running after it's warmed up.
Or unless a weak spark cause's it to not work. That's been 1 of my questions all along, does a spark having anything to do with the motor after it's been started? could the motor be looking for a stronger spark as it warms up and a weak spark can't supply that extra spark so the motor dies out.....kinda thing?
|
|
|
|
Post by mftic on Oct 20, 2015 7:41:38 GMT -5
I'm pretty sure it's the opposite. The colder an engine the more voltage "spark" it needs to start.
Once you lose spark when running it dies. Not like a diesel engine that will attempt to restart due to compression.
*Keep posting
|
|
|
|
Post by cyborg on Oct 20, 2015 8:41:30 GMT -5
agreed the plug looks like the engine is running too rich,,,have you checked the air filter?
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
Joined: Mar 4, 2013 16:47:16 GMT -5
|
Post by scripting25 on Oct 21, 2015 16:41:03 GMT -5
Air filter looks great, like brand new. New spark plug installed for testing today. Scooter ran great around the hood. Soon as I hit the open road for testing, same issue, sputtering out. I let it sit for 30 seconds or so and it would get me another 100 yards or so before it sputtered to a stop again. I managed to do that all the way home. I will note, towards the end I Sprayed carb cleaner on the intake side of the carb. It did seem to run a better for a bit but still went back to sputtering to a stop. Here's a pic of the new spark plug after this test session:  |
|
|
|
Post by mftic on Oct 21, 2015 16:49:13 GMT -5
Curious if you ever pulled the spark plug right away when it wouldn't start to see if you have spark or not? Use one of these if you like to spend money spark tester |
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
Joined: Mar 4, 2013 16:47:16 GMT -5
|
Post by scripting25 on Oct 21, 2015 18:37:55 GMT -5
I did not. Mostly because it and the motor are hot and it's hard to handle.
Plus. ..I wouldn't think it would be a non spark issue because it will attempt to start and mostly does start...BUT soon as I get on the throttle. ..it'll die.
Course I could be wrong and could use gloves to check it next time.
|
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Oct 21, 2015 18:38:05 GMT -5
Air filter looks great, like brand new. New spark plug installed for testing today. Scooter ran great around the hood. Soon as I hit the open road for testing, same issue, sputtering out. I let it sit for 30 seconds or so and it would get me another 100 yards or so before it sputtered to a stop again. I managed to do that all the way home. I will note, towards the end I Sprayed carb cleaner on the intake side of the carb. It did seem to run a better for a bit but still went back to sputtering to a stop. Here's a pic of the new spark plug after this test session: Yes. Sounds like a vacuum leak. I assume you have a vac operated fuel pump or petcock. |
|
|
|
Post by scooter on Oct 21, 2015 18:52:11 GMT -5
Curious if you ever pulled the spark plug right away when it wouldn't start to see if you have spark or not? Use one of these if you like to spend money spark testerThat looks nice. I don't like removing plugs if I don't have to. These scooter engines are so soft that I'm always afraid of stripping threads. Worse, if someone else has already partially stripped them before you work on it. |
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
Joined: Mar 4, 2013 16:47:16 GMT -5
|
Post by scripting25 on Oct 21, 2015 20:55:16 GMT -5
Yes, I do have vacuum petcock.
I ordered a new 1 but the gasket where the nut threads on wasn't 100% correct and it was leaking so I put the original back on.
I'll take the petcock with me and check on a gasket designed for gas flow and I'll switch it out and test.
|
|
|
|
Post by mftic on Oct 22, 2015 7:46:45 GMT -5
I did not. Mostly because it and the motor are hot and it's hard to handle. Plus. ..I wouldn't think it would be a non spark issue because it will attempt to start and mostly does start...BUT soon as I get on the throttle. ..it'll die. Course I could be wrong and could use gloves to check it next time. Damn, sorry scripting. My reading comprehension sucks. I must have missed that earlier. I thought you put on a manual petcock. Look for cracked vacuum hoses <shrug>? |
|
|
|
Post by urbanmadness on Oct 22, 2015 13:51:06 GMT -5
Ladies and Gents, I think there is two problems. his coil or CDI is bad.... and when running at WOT, the vacuum pet cock is closing (if if pump equipped, the pump quits pumping)
On many of these scooters, when you run wide open, the pump or petcock (depending on where your tank is) will quit and it will act like it's out of fuel. It gets worse if the belt is old or the valves are out of adjustment, they will act up more. It's a balancing act.
If the coil is bad, it will have ok spark when cold, but then as it warms up, the spark can get weaker. The higher the revs, the more juice the plug will require to fire. Remember at 3000 rpm, which is just above idle, the plug fires 50 times a second or 100 times a second at 6000rpm. Once on the compression stoke, advanced timing will fire just before power stroke and once just before the exhaust stroke is completed. This puts tons of stress on the coil and CDI. CDI's typically act up when warm and at random when it feels like it. They are cheap enough, I'd change both.
As for the Vacuum problem, it happens when you are going down the road happily, at full throttle, then all of the sudden, the scoot just dies.... the way to tell, is to immediately close the throttle for about 5 seconds while it's slowing down, and then start to open the throttle, slowly, about half way and see if it starts running again. Not running at full throttle for extended periods of time is the only fix, other then putting in an electric pump or manual petcock. A worn belt seems to aggravate it as you tend to run WOT more often.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 13
Likes: 3
Joined: Oct 11, 2015 20:41:48 GMT -5
|
Post by jugdish on Oct 22, 2015 15:09:21 GMT -5
Urbanmadness, I was leaning toward a fuel problem, until I tried 2 different, new fuel pumps, and a manual pump that always has flow. I tried that with the cap off to avoid any vacuum lock.
Also, I have replaced the pick-up coil, ignition coil and CDI, so I was then leaning toward a vacuum leak, perhaps at intake manifold.
I hadn't thought about the belt and will need to read more about it. In the meantime, I am in the process of replacing all fuel and vacuum lines with the correct size, instead of the "close" size tubing from local autoparts store. I am also replacing the "O" ring and gasket at the intake manifold. Thinking maybe when warm, the worn "O" ring letting in a bit of air when warm.
|
|
