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Post by jugdish on Nov 17, 2015 1:47:12 GMT -5
Replaced all vacuum lines and got it running after turning it over for a bit. It had been sitting for awhile. It ran good, after I had accidentally hooked battery up backwards. A little smoke and it seems to be ok. That was fun.
Gonna check it again tomorrow and get it out on road. My hopes aren't too high, as it still seems as though not much gas is pulling from tank.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 23, 2015 11:22:47 GMT -5
Scripting, I'm pursuing a vacuum leak angle. I'm going to replace all tubing, get it running and warm without driving, and start spraying ether around intake manifold, vacuum lines etc to see if there is a change in idle speed. Will post results.
I don't think it's carb related, with your carb swap, and between the two of us, basically every electrical and fuel component has been changed.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 22, 2015 17:57:51 GMT -5
I spoke with a tech person at Scrappydog and he thinks it's a carb jet issue. I'm not as knowledgeable as he is, but it doesn't make sense to me. He said I should be at a .80 jet, from the stock .72.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 22, 2015 15:09:21 GMT -5
Urbanmadness, I was leaning toward a fuel problem, until I tried 2 different, new fuel pumps, and a manual pump that always has flow. I tried that with the cap off to avoid any vacuum lock.
Also, I have replaced the pick-up coil, ignition coil and CDI, so I was then leaning toward a vacuum leak, perhaps at intake manifold.
I hadn't thought about the belt and will need to read more about it. In the meantime, I am in the process of replacing all fuel and vacuum lines with the correct size, instead of the "close" size tubing from local autoparts store. I am also replacing the "O" ring and gasket at the intake manifold. Thinking maybe when warm, the worn "O" ring letting in a bit of air when warm.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 18, 2015 22:25:43 GMT -5
He swapped his out for one he knows works, and symptoms are still the same.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 17, 2015 9:43:40 GMT -5
I don't think the needle can be taken out.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 16, 2015 12:23:02 GMT -5
Hey all, good testing script. Is it possible rocker arms freeze up or maybe valve sticks causing a loss of compression? Between script and myself, I think we've replaced about every external part possible.
I'm still gonna replace intake manifold gasket and see what it does. It seems like starting after a cool down period means hot engine and expanded metal = vacuum leak.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 15, 2015 11:54:44 GMT -5
I believe you're right about the function of the carb bowl hose. It is mainly for troubleshooting. I pulled my intake manifold and gasket and am going to replace the gasket. There is an 'O' ring that sits on the gasket and it was very flat, old. Maybe when the engine gets warm and the metal expands, there is a bit of a gap for air.
I could have tried spraying while it was running, but already had too much taken apart. I'm also going to order fuel and vacuum line from scrappydog parts. The lines I've bought from area parts stores I think are SAE sizes? It seems the original tubes are mm?
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Post by jugdish on Oct 13, 2015 11:55:34 GMT -5
Mo from Scrappydog suggested double checking for spark after the scooter dies, (which I have not done for some reason) and if spark is present, suggests its a carburetor issue.
If you could swap your wifes carb to yours and run it, that would be terrific. They are real quick to take out. I've got stripping down the scooter down to like 2 mins now.
So, I'm going to get the scooter to sputter and die, check for spark and also check the float level. I believe the tube hanging from the bottom of the bowl has a screw in it. If I take the screw out, gas should come out. If not, that's a sign.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 12, 2015 17:50:08 GMT -5
I sent Mo, from Scrappydogscooters an email. I've purchased parts from them and was told he is a guru and to send him an email. I'll pass along his answer. If need be, set alarm for 2 am to swap parts undetected!
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Post by jugdish on Oct 12, 2015 16:48:38 GMT -5
It's worth a shot to swap it out. I was told on the phone by someone at ScrappyDog, although not an expert but knowledgeable, it sounded like a pickup coil or rectifier problem. Only thing is, all I have read online about rectifiers would be a charging issue, i.e.-lights not working, draining battery. I'm wondering if low current would mean low spark? I have had my headlight running low, flickering recently, but figured it was about time to change the bulb.
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Post by jugdish on Oct 12, 2015 13:47:48 GMT -5
Thanks for the video Script. Yeah, this is a tough one. The pickup coil didn't change things, had to walk it home 3 blocks yesterday. Gonna get a rectifier and report back. I have been told it's location is up by the ignition/kill switch.
mftic-will try to check the kill switch, I'm not the most electronically proficient person!
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Post by jugdish on Oct 12, 2015 12:09:52 GMT -5
Hello Scripting, I have the exact same symptoms as you, going on 2 months now. I have a QMJ157 engine in a Chinese model. Below is what I have unsuccessfully tried:
1. checked valve adjustment, looks good
2. replaced AC CDI
3. cleaned carb, it is clean and float spring looks good
4. tried driving with gas cap off, no change
5. replaced petcock twice, no change
6. removed petcock and installed manual switch, no change
7. drilled 2 small holes in top of gas, no change
8. replaced all vacuum tubing, no change
9. replaced fuel filter, no change
10. replaced stator and pickup coil, no change
11. replaced coil, no change
12. removed PAIR system, no change
I think that's about it. Very frustrating to say the least, each day that goes by without a chance to scoot. Latest I have read/been told my problem is either the pickup coil or rectifier. I do not know much about rectifier nor have been able to find where mine is located, but will replace, not much to lose at this point.
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