|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Oct 7, 2015 19:04:14 GMT -5
Waiting for the test run video  |
|
|
|
Post by jerseyboy on Oct 8, 2015 17:08:28 GMT -5
The slides are so much more responsive than the CV carbs,,there is no lag time at all,,its just BOOM your on!!!!
If I ever get a bigger carb its gonna be a slide,,also has alot less BS that can go wrong with it,,much simpler!
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Oct 8, 2015 20:18:49 GMT -5
Wow a 20 pole stator !!! Your gonna have the fastest , quickest, most reliable scoot in the US !! No kidding. The 30mm carb will be just fine for your setup. Do u know what size jets you are starting off with. I'd prob start with a 135 main and go from there. Maybe a 42 pilot ? It was J-Boy, I think, who pointed out there are 18, not 20, poles in the stator. Sorry! Starting to tune - first had to see if there were any air leaks (was running that badly). My biggest worry here is under the intake manifold -the 0-ring is some oddball size. Went to my all-purpose hardware store and replaced all the o-rings; this one was the only 1 I couldn't match. The manifold is perfect (size wise) with the oversized intake ports of the Taida head, so nice airflow. But the o-ring is weird, and not sure it's sealing properly. Added a little gunk to keep it in place & cross fingers. Went back to see what your jet recommendations and to peek in the carb to see what was there. Pilot: had a 38 and that's the biggest I have. So, will start there. If no good will get some bigger pilot jets. Main - had plenty of big ones (up to 145) and put in the 135 you suggested (had a 125 in there with the 61mm BBK. Tomorrow will see how that works |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Oct 9, 2015 12:46:52 GMT -5
Oil cooler connections and placement. This engine is designed from scratch to work with, and requires, an oil cooler. Unlike modified GY6 crankcases where the case is drilled to accept an oil cooler fitting, this Taida case is designed so ALL the oil from the pump travels first out the port to the cooler before being distributed to the engine. Fittings on engine:  Placement of oil cooler, behind front wheel  |
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on Oct 9, 2015 17:26:00 GMT -5
Oh ya lookin good
|
|
|
|
Post by geh3333 on Oct 10, 2015 5:06:07 GMT -5
Wow a 20 pole stator !!! Your gonna have the fastest , quickest, most reliable scoot in the US !! No kidding. The 30mm carb will be just fine for your setup. Do u know what size jets you are starting off with. I'd prob start with a 135 main and go from there. Maybe a 42 pilot ? It was J-Boy, I think, who pointed out there are 18, not 20, poles in the stator. Sorry! Starting to tune - first had to see if there were any air leaks (was running that badly). My biggest worry here is under the intake manifold -the 0-ring is some oddball size. Went to my all-purpose hardware store and replaced all the o-rings; this one was the only 1 I couldn't match. The manifold is perfect (size wise) with the oversized intake ports of the Taida head, so nice airflow. But the o-ring is weird, and not sure it's sealing properly. Added a little gunk to keep it in place & cross fingers. Went back to see what your jet recommendations and to peek in the carb to see what was there. Pilot: had a 38 and that's the biggest I have. So, will start there. If no good will get some bigger pilot jets. Main - had plenty of big ones (up to 145) and put in the 135 you suggested (had a 125 in there with the 61mm BBK. Tomorrow will see how that works Can't wait to hear how it goes ! |
|
|
|
Post by jerseyboy on Oct 10, 2015 20:53:54 GMT -5
The twisted oil cooler lines would drive me nuts,,looks great anyhow,,cant wait!!!
|
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Oct 13, 2015 18:04:48 GMT -5
75 miles into the 300 mile break in period. Torture!
|
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on Oct 13, 2015 19:25:31 GMT -5
75 miles into the 300 mile break in period. Torture! Rail on it No puss-n-boot's break in.  |
|
|
|
Post by rcq92130 on Oct 13, 2015 20:20:51 GMT -5
Ha.
NOPE! Not a race engine. I don't want to be tearing this thing down in a year
|
|
|
|
Post by jerseyboy on Oct 14, 2015 21:40:58 GMT -5
Break it in like you are going to run it man,,all that break in stuff is a myth,,I worked along side Bob Hannahs mechanic and he always told us to break them in hard....been doing it for over 30 years with no issues  DROP THE HAMMER!!! |
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on Oct 15, 2015 15:07:20 GMT -5
Break it in like you are going to run it man,,all that break in stuff is a myth,,I worked along side Bob Hannahs mechanic and he always told us to break them in hard....been doing it for over 30 years with no issues DROP THE HAMMER!!! You worked/work with Keith? Current national race director at Yam? |
|
|
|
Post by cyborg on Oct 16, 2015 9:19:39 GMT -5
I agree with the fellas on the break in,,, run it ,, this is a real engine,, I doubt highly if a " break in period " is necessary ,,,, go on YouTube and watch Kawasaki and hondas dyno production line tests,,, they blast them wide open as soon as they start ,, bang them thru the gears shut them down and ship
|
|
|
|
Post by lain on Oct 16, 2015 9:33:19 GMT -5
FFS rcq92130 STOP TEASING US BRO!!! I wannna see a video please I really wanna see how it is after the breakin, gimme a video of you going down the freeway as fast as you can  Gps speed in video please if you can, idk how but I think geh3333 knows how |
|
|
|
Post by ricardoguitars on Oct 16, 2015 15:53:29 GMT -5
We want a video, we want a video...!!!  |
|
