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Post by pistonguy on Jun 18, 2015 14:32:37 GMT -5
I am familiar with the BBK you have.
Maybe my verbiage isn't clear.
No you Cannot Create/ReCreate the Load that a Dyno with a Brake has.
Not even a 1/2 mile down hill at WOT and up the other side at WOT.
The Piston has a pretty healthy Oil ring so smoke is not my concern.
I'm going to get to my point once Lain responds to my questions.
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 18, 2015 17:15:00 GMT -5
i wish alleyoop could chime in. have you guys seen him on at all lately? i hope all is well. To be honest . it can only be a couple things . too high crank case pressure or overfilling the oil . how do you read the dipstick ? Did the oil come all at once or was it in the airbox for awhile , building up after each oil change ? When you drain the oil , some will always be left behind. Its important you read the dipstick correctly. It may sound simple , but it has happened many times before . if you read the dipstick without it screwed in , the oil should read halfway up the marked area on the dipstick. |
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 18:15:21 GMT -5
geh3333 yes. That is exactly how I check the oil level. Right now I only the tip gets wet when I check the oil lvl unscrewed. Before the egr might have been handling the pressure now I plug that whole and it could be making this mess. I'll try the PVC. I do not know what pistonguy is asking. He asked me some questions not lain*
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Post by geh3333 on Jun 18, 2015 19:18:56 GMT -5
geh3333 yes. That is exactly how I check the oil level. Right now I only the tip gets wet when I check the oil lvl unscrewed. Before the egr might have been handling the pressure now I plug that whole and it could be making this mess. I'll try the PVC. I do not know what pistonguy is asking. He asked me some questions not lain* I'm worried about your piston rings . you really need to do a compression test. You may have blow by passing the rings creating too much pressure in the crankcase. |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 18, 2015 19:27:20 GMT -5
Stay tuned
I need Lian to answer my questions to go further.
I want you to completely understand what we may be dealing with here.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 18, 2015 19:36:52 GMT -5
Stay tuned I need Lian to answer my questions to go further. I want you to completely understand what we may be dealing with here. Ital, not Lian |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 18, 2015 20:28:15 GMT -5
Sorry, My bad.
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 23:03:03 GMT -5
pistonguy , the problem is i do not understand the questions, or I would answer. I will look into the compression test. How much psi are we talking about here?
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 18, 2015 23:56:23 GMT -5
pistonguy , the problem is i do not understand the questions, or I would answer. I will look into the compression test. How much psi are we talking about here? See if I can help here since things are a bit mixed up. 1. LAIN, not Ital, commented that in HIS BBK he did some deglazing, etc. This has nothing to do with Ital's situation. He (Ital) bought a BBK, did nothing to it, installed it. No honing. Correct me, Ital, if that is wrong. 2. Ital, you never answered the question if this is a new oil buildup of something that developed over a long period of time. 3. When you run the engine can you see oil spurting out the vent? 4. A PCV will not fix this. At all. 5. Are you SURE the oil is coming from the valve cover vent? All that can be seen from the 1 photo you posted is oil on the plastic fender RIGHT BEHIND THE STARTER MOTOR. Sure it's not from the o-ring that is supposed to seal where the starter motor goes into the crankcase? 6. Very first check is almost always compression. Free loaners available. Bring a spark plug to make sure the thing has an adapter small enough to screw into the undersized spark plugs used on GY6 engines. Make sure you hold the throttle wide open as you crank the engine a half dozen times or so. Then tell us what psi you are getting. People are trying to help but you have given precious little info to go on, other than the fact you see oil. More info will help people help you. |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 19, 2015 6:26:44 GMT -5
K, we haven't heard back from that other Dude so I will address this.
Lain installed new rings and Honed/Deglaze Cylinder.
Most likely this hone is either a Flex or Stone Hone purchased at the local auto parts store.
These are All at 280 grit, very Course for the Cylinder finish and these nice rings aren't very happy.
This Course of a Finish will seat the Rings very Quickly and you can get away with Synthetic Oils at start up as Lian stated he used. Longevity and seal will Not be as good with this course of a hone.
Now we have a New BBK, in production these are fixtured to a Honing machine, and the Finish is more closer to a very Fine 400-600 Grit. This will take much longer to seat the new rings but longevity and seal will be better. Now the 400-600 finish will be susceptible to Glazing the Cylinder if you get carried away with assy. lube or Especially using Synthetic Oils.
Also these are distinctly different hones, the Auto parts store hone is old school, the production Hone is a Plateau Hone, this could best be explained, if you could magnify the two, the Conventional Hone would look like a Pyramid with a pointy peak, The plateau hone would look like a Pyramid with The point knocked off to a Flat Plateau.
Performing a Compression test may not show you if the Cylinder is Glazed.
It will give you one reading cold, another hot, and the tough part is no way to test at Speed when Hot.
I hope this is not your problem as you will have to disassemble and have the Cylinder De-Glazed.
Good luck.
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 19, 2015 7:03:15 GMT -5
I held off on my response because.
If I give someone the correct answers as "Thats what I used" "Thats how I did it"
Then we get knower
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Post by ital on Jun 19, 2015 9:31:04 GMT -5
pistonguy , the problem is i do not understand the questions, or I would answer. I will look into the compression test. How much psi are we talking about here? See if I can help here since things are a bit mixed up. 1. LAIN, not Ital, commented that in HIS BBK he did some deglazing, etc. This has nothing to do with Ital's situation. He (Ital) bought a BBK, did nothing to it, installed it. No honing. Correct me, Ital, if that is wrong. 2. Ital, you never answered the question if this is a new oil buildup of something that developed over a long period of time. 3. When you run the engine can you see oil spurting out the vent? 4. A PCV will not fix this. At all. 5. Are you SURE the oil is coming from the valve cover vent? All that can be seen from the 1 photo you posted is oil on the plastic fender RIGHT BEHIND THE STARTER MOTOR. Sure it's not from the o-ring that is supposed to seal where the starter motor goes into the crankcase? 6. Very first check is almost always compression. Free loaners available. Bring a spark plug to make sure the thing has an adapter small enough to screw into the undersized spark plugs used on GY6 engines. Make sure you hold the throttle wide open as you crank the engine a half dozen times or so. Then tell us what psi you are getting. People are trying to help but you have given precious little info to go on, other than the fact you see oil. More info will help people help you. you are right on. thanks for trying to clear thing up, and I will try to answer your questions. I apprciate your help. pistonguy your replies are so confusing to me not sure you are talking to me or this Lain. Please stop bringing Lain into this thread  Thank you answers: 1) Yes you are correct, I did not do any honing, direct bolt on. 2) I always had a small oil leak, and always found a bit of oil in the airbox but it was never this bad. However after I nstalled the new BBK and completely removed the rest of the EGR system for the first 5miles i did not see any oil, then I did an oil change put new syntetic oil and it blew out of control. 20 miles latter I siwtched to Dyno regula 10w 40 oil and went for a 70Miles round trip and there was a mess. Probably lost 100ML on that trip and the airbox was floated with oil. I do think it is coming from the valve cover Nipple because I found some oil spraying from the nipple it self and even reaching the platform where I put my feat trough the vents and found some oil on the cover it self. Here is what I think it is happening, The valve cover nibble has a hose that goes to the airbox which then went to the EGR, all this is happenign withing a small box with thin the airbox which is seealed and I cannot open so not sure whats in there. Since I removed the EGR system I sealed the hole that went to the EGR system so I think it is makign this situation much worse then it is, perhaps like putting your finger on a water hose? So I am hoping the PCV will fix the situation. 3) I'll try to start the engine and rev it a bit and see if oil comes out of the nipple if that is what you are asking? 5) I'll double check. Just ordered some parts so cant put her back together until they come in and will update you. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 19, 2015 9:58:19 GMT -5
1. OK. Helps a little.
2. So from what you say this is more than just a fine mist of spray and something is wrong.
3. A pvc - again - will not help this. On the original (PAIR) system that is now removed:
This is basically very simple. The crankcase is vented, via the nipple on the valve cover, back into the carb. Any material vented is thus fed back into the piston and burned, then out the exhaust it goes. With the EGR, etc. it's a bit more complicated that this - but that's the gist. Crankcase gases are fed back into the air intake and burned. Plugging it off, or removing it completely, will NOT cause anything more to be vented. So, if you are seeing large quantities of something vented you have some OTHER problem. A pvc valve will NOT change that. At all.
4. For the future - what most do after removing PAIR is simply to run a hose from the valve cover nipple up to a high point (right under the seat), add an old fuel filter to the end, and leave the other side of the filter open to air. Little or nothing should come out, and any oil mist entering the hose will condense and drip back into the valve cover (i.e., back into the engine). Once you get things fixed you may want to just do that with the vent.
5. Make sure you are CERTAIN oil is splattering out the vent.
6. Get a compression tester.
As GEH was saying, the only obvious reasons you would have oil splattering out the vent is (1) too much oil in the crankcase; (2) blowby (bad rings)
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 19, 2015 10:07:04 GMT -5
K. I'll try to help in a different way.
A Oil Leak is a Drippy Gasket.
You Appear to Have Excessive Positive Crank Case Pressure Blowing Oil all over the Place.
My Point is You Have a New Cylinder with a Modern Factory Fixtured Plateau Hone Very Fine Finish of 400-600 Grit.
With This Fine of a Finish You Should Never Ever Have Considered Using Synthetic Oil to Start with.
You may Have Glazed the Cylinder and the Rings May Never Seat In Properly.
At Operating Temperature and Speed This Will Cause Excessive Positive Crank Case Pressure Causing oil to By Blown all Over the Place.
A Compression Tester May Not Show You This as it Cannot Test at Operating Temps. and Speeds.
Actor #2 Used a old School Hone Of a Course Finish of 280 Grit. Much too Course.
And Used Synthetic oil at Start up, With This Old School Hone and Very Course/Rough Finish He Probably
Got Away with the Synthetic oil.
Good Luck
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Post by ital on Jun 19, 2015 10:37:24 GMT -5
pistonguy, got it, so if that were to be the case, how do I fix it? you spoke about deglazing, how is that done?
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