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Post by lain on Jun 19, 2015 10:39:33 GMT -5
I used a 2 block stone hone. I actually honed it by hand, didn't have a drill on hand. Made perfect 45 degree crosshatches, wish I had a camera when I was doing it. I just taped the hone handle with grip tape and rotated it by hand. I was just mentioning it because I thought it may be slightly relevant.
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 19, 2015 10:45:18 GMT -5
I used a 2 block stone hone. I actually honed it by hand, didn't have a drill on hand. Made perfect 45 degree crosshatches, wish I had a camera when I was doing it. I just taped the hone handle with grip tape and rotated it by hand. I was just mentioning it because I thought it may be slightly relevant. Sound's Good. It is Relevant. All that is Needed is a Light Dress of the Cylinder. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 19, 2015 11:42:05 GMT -5
pistonguy, got it, so if that were to be the case, how do I fix it? you spoke about deglazing, how is that done? 1. Order new rings and a gasket set 2. Get a hone from the local auto parts store (free rentals available) 3. Remove head and jug. Hone the jug (pistonguy has a great tutorial on this,. if I remember correctly). You want the 'scratches' at a 45 degree angle to each other forming a cross hatch. SLOW drill speed! Just a tiny bit of honing - the point isn't to remove cylinder wall material but simply to scratch it up. 4. Install new rings, reinstall jug & head. Fill with regular oil. (as an aside, some people take a fine grade sandpaper (400 or 600 grit) and lightly hand sand the liner after honing. Either way - make sure it is VERY clean of metal dust after you are done and before you reinstall it.) |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 19, 2015 13:44:41 GMT -5
pistonguy, got it, so if that were to be the case, how do I fix it? you spoke about deglazing, how is that done? 1. Order new rings and a gasket set 2. Get a hone from the local auto parts store (free rentals available) 3. Remove head and jug. Hone the jug (pistonguy has a great tutorial on this,. if I remember correctly). You want the 'scratches' at a 45 degree angle to each other forming a cross hatch. SLOW drill speed! Just a tiny bit of honing - the point isn't to remove cylinder wall material but simply to scratch it up. 4. Install new rings, reinstall jug & head. Fill with regular oil. (as an aside, some people take a fine grade sandpaper (400 or 600 grit) and lightly hand sand the liner after honing. Either way - make sure it is VERY clean of metal dust after you are done and before you reinstall it.) In Addition I may add. Be Very Very careful of a Hone from the local Auto store. Ive never been able to obtain a Hone with a fine Grit of 400 or more, Most are around 280 and too Course/Rough for your needs. I would recommend a Flex Hone over a Finger Stone Hone and if you want the Very Best Order a Nylon Soft Hone Brush. Skip the Sand Paper. There is Only One way to Properly Clean Cylinder for Reassembly. Use Hot Soapy Water, Liquid Dish Soap, then Dry with WD-40. I hope you don't have to do this but Good Luck. |
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Post by ital on Jun 19, 2015 15:03:14 GMT -5
Thank you all for the help. I will double check where the oil is coming from and make a decision on the next steps and update you all.
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 19, 2015 15:11:00 GMT -5
Thank you all for the help. I will double check where the oil is coming from and make a decision on the next steps and update you all. Good Move. Take your time, One Step at a Time. |
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Post by cyborg on Jun 19, 2015 18:21:41 GMT -5
1. Order new rings and a gasket set 2. Get a hone from the local auto parts store (free rentals available) 3. Remove head and jug. Hone the jug (pistonguy has a great tutorial on this,. if I remember correctly). You want the 'scratches' at a 45 degree angle to each other forming a cross hatch. SLOW drill speed! Just a tiny bit of honing - the point isn't to remove cylinder wall material but simply to scratch it up. 4. Install new rings, reinstall jug & head. Fill with regular oil. (as an aside, some people take a fine grade sandpaper (400 or 600 grit) and lightly hand sand the liner after honing. Either way - make sure it is VERY clean of metal dust after you are done and before you reinstall it.) In Addition I may add. Be Very Very careful of a Hone from the local Auto store. Ive never been able to obtain a Hone with a fine Grit of 400 or more, Most are around 280 and too Course/Rough for your needs. I would recommend a Flex Hone over a Finger Stone Hone and if you want the Very Best Order a Nylon Soft Hone Brush. Skip the Sand Paper. There is Only One way to Properly Clean Cylinder for Reassembly. Use Hot Soapy Water, Liquid Dish Soap, then Dry with WD-40. I hope you don't have to do this but Good Luck. |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 20, 2015 18:24:41 GMT -5
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 20, 2015 19:17:58 GMT -5
Skip the Brake Stone Hone, It has Short Finger Stones for Disc Brake Calipers.
Stones will most likely Remove material. it indicates fine but I see no spec of Grit#.
The Flex Hone 600 Grit is the Choice. This should not remove material and will actually raise material similar to a Knurl Job on the handle of a Braker Bar.
Best Choice is the Nylon Flex hone brush.http://slavensracing.com/wp-content/uploads/flexhone-brush.jpg
Dmn its pricey tho.
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Post by rcq92130 on Jun 20, 2015 22:09:34 GMT -5
Skip the Brake Stone Hone, It has Short Finger Stones for Disc Brake Calipers. Stones will most likely Remove material. it indicates fine but I see no spec of Grit#. The Flex Hone 600 Grit is the Choice. This should not remove material and will actually raise material similar to a Knurl Job on the handle of a Braker Bar. Best Choice is the Nylon Flex hone brush.http://slavensracing.com/wp-content/uploads/flexhone-brush.jpg Dmn its pricey tho. The 3-finger hone is 400 grit (unless I messed up & copied the wrong one. It will work OK. The other is 600 grit, though twice the price. |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 21, 2015 7:59:32 GMT -5
Skip the Brake Stone Hone, It has Short Finger Stones for Disc Brake Calipers. Stones will most likely Remove material. it indicates fine but I see no spec of Grit#. The Flex Hone 600 Grit is the Choice. This should not remove material and will actually raise material similar to a Knurl Job on the handle of a Braker Bar. Best Choice is the Nylon Flex hone brush.http://slavensracing.com/wp-content/uploads/flexhone-brush.jpg Dmn its pricey tho. The 3-finger hone is 400 grit (unless I messed up & copied the wrong one. It will work OK. The other is 600 grit, though twice the price. At 400 Grit will work Let me Point out the Three Finger Hone has Very Short Stones Specifically for Short Bore Brake Calipers Bores. Also The Spring Pressure on the Fingers is too much. If this is all you had and No Money with Lots of Experience use it. If not Purchase the Correct Tool. |
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Post by ital on Jun 21, 2015 8:52:00 GMT -5
Hi All, before I go that route, I am looking at other possibilities for the oil leak. Since someone mentioned starter O ring, I went ahead and replaced it since most of the oil accumulation was right there. Here is a video before I removed it and replaced the O Ring. I have the PCV coming Tuesday and my carburetor 5mm spacer, I'll go for short ride then and report back. Hopefully that will do it...  |
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Post by pistonguy on Jun 21, 2015 9:17:37 GMT -5
Hi All, before I go that route, I am looking at other possibilities for the oil leak. Since someone mentioned starter O ring, I went ahead and replaced it since most of the oil accumulation was right there. Here is a video before I removed it and replaced the O Ring. I have the PCV coming Tuesday and my carburetor 5mm spacer, I'll go for short ride then and report back. Hopefully that will do it... The Correct thing to do before you may Needlessly Tear into it and Spend More $$$$ |
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Post by ital on Jun 22, 2015 23:25:29 GMT -5
Hi guys I got the scooter back running changed the starter o ring and re routed the head cover nipple and it is not leaking from those places after all. I cleaned the area and after a short run you can see the oil finding it way out of the black covering around the cylinder so I'll have to take that off next. Since I was not able to use a gasket for the chain tensioner I really hope it's coming from there  Here is the latest video.  |
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Post by ital on Jun 24, 2015 8:23:43 GMT -5
Question, how important is the bolt that covers the spring retraction mechanism after installation? I never put it back on, could that have been causing the oil leak? I am trying to put the bolt it on now, but it wont go all the way down and I do not want to force it too much. Perhaps I should cut it and make it shorter?
Thank you
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