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Post by JerryScript on Feb 26, 2015 14:32:00 GMT -5
I can never find my needle nose, one of the more popular tools around my house that never seems to get put back. I just press the needle against a hard surface to pop the clip off.
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Post by rcq92130 on Feb 26, 2015 16:11:24 GMT -5
JOEYBEE had a great photo of the needle, which shows pretty clearly what causes the fuel/air mixture to be more lean or more rich (shown here again): I happen to enjoy knowing how and why things work as they do, and these carbs are simple to understand. So, for those who are not yet familiar: Here is an overview of a typical carb. The top part has a cap; under it a diaphragm/piston with the needle sticking down. The bottom part (body of the carb) has a fuel bowl, the main jet screwed into it (and the idle or pilot jet that I'm ignoring): Here is a nice little diagram showing how the thing works: The very top (vacuum chamber) IS at a vacuum since it's connected to engine vacuum. The diaphragm/piston assembly seals the top part from the airflow, and as the vacuum increases the piston is pulled UPWARD. Since the needle is connected to the bottom of the piston, it rises as the piston rises. So, the whole purpose is to either lift the needle upward, or let it go back down under spring pressure, depending on the demands of the engine. So what does the rising or falling of the needle do? Well, the needle sticks down right into the main jet, which is a sort of tube. Now take another look at the first picture (the one Joeybee posted) and notice the needle is TAPERED ~~ the thing is fat at the top and becomes progressively thinned at the bottom. BELOW the main jet is the pool of fuel in the fuel bowl. So if the needle is dropped all the way down the THICKEST part of it slides right into the jet. In this case the needle pretty much fills the entire tube of the jet, so there is very little room for fuel to get past the needle (and into the airstream). But if the needle is pulled all the way UPWARD, only the thinnest part remains inside the jet tube. In THIS case there is plenty of room between the needle and the jet, and PLENTY of fuel can get past the needle into the airstream. FYI: the carb is designed to create a low pressure spot in the airstream exactly where the needly and the main jet meet - creating a sort of vacuum there. It is this low pressure or vacuum that SUCKS fuel up past the needle. The fuel is under ZERO pressure in the fuel bowl, so ONLY this vacuum gets fuel up into the air (one reason vacuum leaks, even is small, really mess up the engine's performance). For those who have never taken their carm top cap off, there is what it looks like with the cap off: and here is a photo of the needle/diaphragm/piston assemble that is inside the top of the carb (along with a spring): So, anyway - this might help explain why putting the circlip in a higher or lower slot of the needle causes a leaner or richer mixture ~~~ because it makes the rest position (engine off) of the needle in the jet lower or higher. And, with the needle starting out at a different position (and thus thickness where it meets the jet tube) it will ALWAYS be either higher or lower as the engine vacuum causes it to rise and fall according to throttle and demand.
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 26, 2015 18:31:38 GMT -5
I can never find my needle nose, one of the more popular tools around my house that never seems to get put back. I just press the needle against a hard surface to pop the clip off. Same thing happens in my house , my needle nose always gets lost .
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Sophomore Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 137
Likes: 24
Joined: Jul 6, 2013 21:27:28 GMT -5
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Post by mopojo on Feb 27, 2015 7:22:04 GMT -5
Cool posting of the mechanics of carbs, rcq. Tried to like but having some king of compatibility issue with browser. I'll get it in with a dif one. Thanks
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Post by jerseyboy on Feb 27, 2015 9:44:33 GMT -5
I threw him a bone for that one too!! Nice post!
Hey Geh,, How did you get 390 likes??? Holy smokes!!! lol...
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Post by geh3333 on Feb 27, 2015 21:23:25 GMT -5
I threw him a bone for that one too!! Nice post! Hey Geh,, How did you get 390 likes??? Holy smokes!!! lol... You mean 391 , what can I say , lol
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Post by lain on Feb 28, 2015 16:26:58 GMT -5
Got a new "Racing CDI" today, the blue one. The bogging went away, except for after idling for a few minutes, and it only bogs for like a second not even. I am guessing maybe my idle is set a little too high on the rich side? I'll fiddle with it later, otherwise everything seems nice.
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Post by JoeyBee on Mar 1, 2015 1:29:19 GMT -5
Got a new "Racing CDI" today, the blue one. The bogging went away, except for after idling for a few minutes, and it only bogs for like a second not even. I am guessing maybe my idle is set a little too high on the rich side? I'll fiddle with it later, otherwise everything seems nice. That's good to hear. How is starting with the "racing CDI"?
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Post by lain on Mar 1, 2015 11:15:32 GMT -5
Got a new "Racing CDI" today, the blue one. The bogging went away, except for after idling for a few minutes, and it only bogs for like a second not even. I am guessing maybe my idle is set a little too high on the rich side? I'll fiddle with it later, otherwise everything seems nice. That's good to hear. How is starting with the "racing CDI"? On a super cold day like today it is hard to start with the racing CDI, I think because of the advanced ignition curve. It sounds as if when it sparks the piston gets pushed back because it sounds like the bendix gets spun super fast in the opposite direction, you can hear it spin out and a loud CLACK. I actually had the same problem about a half a year ago with my 50cc engine and totally forgot about it. It never kicked back quite as hard as it does now with the "100cc" BBK. I don't even need to "kick" it, I just kind of "step" and it usually starts up in 2-3 "steps" with the stock CDI. I actually broke my CVT case last night trying to get it to kickstart in 5 degrees. It felt like it kicked back a couple times then it snapped the area on the CVT case around the big kickstarter gear into a moon shape almost. Needless to say the kickstarter isn't going to work until I get a new case, but the electric still has a good hold and the crack does not reach the area around the bendix on the case. It is not hard to start once warmed up though. I think I may go back to using the stock CDI until the winter weather isn't a problem. It's not like I can go fast anywhere anyways with all the ice around lol.
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 1, 2015 13:24:43 GMT -5
And this is why many of us here recommend the advancing (not advanced) angle CDI that tvnacman sells, it prevents kickback at low RPM, and advances as the RPMs increase. The stock CDI has a similar curve, but it is much steeper in the lower RPMs and flattens out, the advancing angle CDI has a smoother curve.
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Post by lain on Mar 1, 2015 15:57:30 GMT -5
Hmm... Now it seems I am experiencing the same issue with my stock CDI, except for the kickback. Just hard to start, I am starting to think that orange coil may be going. I'll have to check later. Just started snowing when I was on my way home on my scoot. I am really starting to hate snow >.>
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Post by geh3333 on Mar 1, 2015 17:31:55 GMT -5
Hmm... Now it seems I am experiencing the same issue with my stock CDI, except for the kickback. Just hard to start, I am starting to think that orange coil may be going. I'll have to check later. Just started snowing when I was on my way home on my scoot. I am really starting to hate snow >.> I've had the same blue racing cdi for the past 3 yrs or more , as long as my battery is strong it works great , but if my battery is weak it starts the kickback . I'm sure its because of the advanced timing at startup .
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 1, 2015 22:21:13 GMT -5
Mine is hard to start if the weather is colder than 40 or so...if its warm out it starts right up.
No kickback anymore,,had that problem a little with the stock motor and a performance CDI..the Progress Racing CDI I have on there now works really good,,smooth idle,no rev limit,and better performance by far than stock CDI.
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 2, 2015 7:58:37 GMT -5
Mine is hard to start if the weather is colder than 40 or so...if its warm out it starts right up. No kickback anymore,,had that problem a little with the stock motor and a performance CDI..the Progress Racing CDI I have on there now works really good,,smooth idle,no rev limit,and better performance by far than stock CDI. Can you shoot that with a timing light and let us know what you find ? John
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Post by jerseyboy on Mar 2, 2015 8:23:24 GMT -5
Mine is hard to start if the weather is colder than 40 or so...if its warm out it starts right up. No kickback anymore,,had that problem a little with the stock motor and a performance CDI..the Progress Racing CDI I have on there now works really good,,smooth idle,no rev limit,and better performance by far than stock CDI. Can you shoot that with a timing light and let us know what you find ? John Yeah John,, Soon as it warms up I will,,it might be the same CDI you have,,not sure but its really smooth,,unlike all the rest of them I tried. I have to get a cheap light also,,dont have one yet.
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