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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 12, 2015 20:23:16 GMT -5
COOL!!!!!!!!
Easy on those new rings!
RE: intake manifold Your intake port in your cyl. head is bigger than in an OEM head. If you use a stock intake manifold there will be a substantial lip where the smaller manifold meets the bigger port. This will mess up airflow pretty badly.
Got mine to fit by tossing the molded rubber "tube" that came with the big manifold. Instead, I got an auto water hose the right diameter and cut off a 1 inch part (plus a pair of SS clamps). That allowed the carb to sit closer to the manifold, since the Taiwan "tube" has bibs on the inside that keep the manifold and carb apart just enough to cause interference problems.
My 30mm pumper carb still has a small fit problem - the carb body casting includes a round projection on the right side (when installed) that is the "pumper" body, and this hits against the right side engine mounting tab that is part of the crankcase casting. But a small off-vertical turn of the carb (probably no more than a few degrees off vertical) gets it in there.
Oh - and go easy on those new rings!
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 12, 2015 20:25:46 GMT -5
All done! Its a little louder than Im used too,,might just be cause I'm not used to hearing it with all the covers off...and these stiffer valve springs with the bigger cam making a little slam noise..also needs to be broke in. Runs good,,idles,takes fuel..I will fine tune it when I get it all back together... Could not use the performance 30mm intake,,no room,,so might have to mod something up. The motor was already warm when I made the video,,it was running for 10 minutes or so.. Thanks for all the help and I will post videos of my speed on different terrains soon as it warms up a bit. Tom Sounds good Jersey, maybe tweak the fuel a little leaner sounds a little rich and so it revs up and down quicker. Alleyoop
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 20:29:40 GMT -5
Yeah Alley,, I haven't touched the A/F screw yet,,its still set at its old spot..the pilot is a 36,,i tried a 42 and it was smoking fuel at idle. The main is a 120,,might go back to the 118 just to see,,but Its raining out here and cold so it wont be for a few days.
Stand by...
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 20:36:14 GMT -5
COOL!!!!!!!! Easy on those new rings! RE: intake manifold Your intake port in your cyl. head is bigger than in an OEM head. If you use a stock intake manifold there will be a substantial lip where the smaller manifold meets the bigger port. This will mess up airflow pretty badly. Got mine to fit by tossing the molded rubber "tube" that came with the big manifold. Instead, I got an auto water hose the right diameter and cut off a 1 inch part (plus a pair of SS clamps). That allowed the carb to sit closer to the manifold, since the Taiwan "tube" has bibs on the inside that keep the manifold and carb apart just enough to cause interference problems. My 30mm pumper carb still has a small fit problem - the carb body casting includes a round projection on the right side (when installed) that is the "pumper" body, and this hits against the right side engine mounting tab that is part of the crankcase casting. But a small off-vertical turn of the carb (probably no more than a few degrees off vertical) gets it in there. Oh - and go easy on those new rings! Thats a good idea,,will try that tomorrow..bet it will run stronger once its matched up. Also I was always taught to break my rings in like you are gonna ride it..been doing it that way for 35 years never had any problems., I did let it sit and idle for 15 minutes or so before I ripped it up to 6k...lol..sorry for making you cringe
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 12, 2015 20:38:20 GMT -5
Thats cool, don't rush it, maybe run it like that a little rich for the first 50 miles or so the rings will seat in the first 20 or so. It sounded a little throaty which indicates a little on the rich side.
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Post by scooter on Jan 12, 2015 20:46:35 GMT -5
All done! Its a little louder than Im used too,,might just be cause I'm not used to hearing it with all the covers off...and these stiffer valve springs with the bigger cam making a little slam noise..also needs to be broke in. Runs good,,idles,takes fuel..I will fine tune it when I get it all back together... Could not use the performance 30mm intake,,no room,,so might have to mod something up. The motor was already warm when I made the video,,it was running for 10 minutes or so.. Thanks for all the help and I will post videos of my speed on different terrains soon as it warms up a bit. Tom VROOM! VROOM! Nice job, man!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 22:13:35 GMT -5
Thanks guys!! I got the performance intake on,,I cut some of the rubber off one side and the carb is in there,,the float bowl is right up against the cross bar,,so tomorrow I am going to go to the auto store or home center and get a piece of rubber hose,,
will cut it just long enough to cover the carb outlet and the inlet of the intake with the two butted together..all I need is a 1\4"man and I am home free,,if worse comes to worse Ill take it to my buddy at the machine shop and he can shorten it.
Unbelievable how much better it ran with the matched intake..holy smokes,,cant wait to take it for a ride!!
Yes Alley,, I will run it like it is for 50 miles or so,,then I will start playing around with the tune..I will set the A/F screw tomorrow though. Will try to keep it under 6K R's but its going to be hard..lol
Tom
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 12, 2015 22:19:50 GMT -5
Thats cool, don't rush it, maybe run it like that a little rich for the first 50 miles or so the rings will seat in the first 20 or so. It sounded a little throaty which indicates a little on the rich side. With the air cleaner off in the video you can see gas vapor spraying out the back of the carb when I opened it up..lol..more than enough fuel from the 120 main. Ive seen 2 strokes do that before also... Crappy flip phone pic,,well get R done with a short piece of rubber and some skinnier clamps Thats a nice intake John,,thanks!!
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 14, 2015 4:25:22 GMT -5
Looking good man!
I broke my engine in by setting my scoot up on it's center stand and turned the idle up to 5k (no belt on the cvt). I had a fan pointed at it and ran it for about an hour. I sat with it the whole time and played with the idle speed as to not just run it at 5 k. I would also blip the throttle every now and then. It was interesting to hear the motor break in. In the first 20-30 mins you could actually hear the rings seat.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 9:14:58 GMT -5
Looking good man! I broke my engine in by setting my scoot up on it's center stand and turned the idle up to 5k (no belt on the cvt). I had a fan pointed at it and ran it for about an hour. I sat with it the whole time and played with the idle speed as to not just run it at 5 k. I would also blip the throttle every now and then. It was interesting to hear the motor break in. In the first 20-30 mins you could actually hear the rings seat. Yeah thats one way of doing it,,so much controversy on breaking in rings,,I always just ran it like I was going to ride it. Make sure its all warmed up then just get on it and go...been doing it that way for over 35 years,,mostly with two strokes,,on this motor I will take it easy the first 50-100 miles keep it under 5K or so,,might hit 6k a couple times..lol..I like to break them in under a load since thats the way they are going to be running 99% of the time,,under load. Tom
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 14, 2015 10:57:54 GMT -5
That's why I ran it for only an hour. Figure even at 5k, one hour is still less than 50 miles. The way I did it just gets them good and seated to give you a good start on breaking it in.. Also with now it being a higher RPM motor it will hit 7500 to 8k during normal operation with the CVT doing it's thing and whatnot. Even taking it easy it's impossible to keep it at 5k. With heavy rollers you can cruise at that rpm, but you are not in the cam's power band. Ideally you want the rollers to allow your typical cruising speed to be at 6k-6500. For m that's 35-40 mph. After my initial break in, I still took it easy for the next 100 or so miles. Only going over 50 mph or cruising at 7k + rpms for short periods.
I don't think it's so much as a controversy as it is just people have their own ways of doing it.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 12:01:34 GMT -5
Yeah,, Im pretty new to these GY6 motors,,I guess I need to build some more trust in them,,7K just seems like its a bit too high for cruising long periods of time to me on one..especially in the hot Summer time.
I was cruising around 5-6K all Summer at 40-45 MPH with my stock setup.My heavy sliders get me into high gear pretty quick and I like the lower RPM,,still had plenty of power to pull me up the big hills even at 5-6K.
My goal is to get the RPM down to around 5.5k and cruise at 50 with some pulling power left,,its gonna be hard because their is no replacement for displacement,hopefully the BBK will help me accomplish that..probably not..lol
I will probably get another motor this Spring and set it up with lighter rollers/sliders so I can run 7-8K cruising 50 or so. Will put this motor to sleep on the bench for a while..and see how the higher RPM works out for longevity.I know my stock setup would start blowing oil out of the breather if I ran 6K for long periods of time...might have just been a little over full.
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Post by scooter on Jan 14, 2015 16:58:04 GMT -5
Yeah,, Im pretty new to these GY6 motors,,I guess I need to build some more trust in them,,7K just seems like its a bit too high for cruising long periods of time to me on one..especially in the hot Summer time. I was cruising around 5-6K all Summer at 40-45 MPH with my stock setup.My heavy sliders get me into high gear pretty quick and I like the lower RPM,,still had plenty of power to pull me up the big hills even at 5-6K. My goal is to get the RPM down to around 5.5k and cruise at 50 with some pulling power left,,its gonna be hard because their is no replacement for displacement,hopefully the BBK will help me accomplish that..probably not..lol I will probably get another motor this Spring and set it up with lighter rollers/sliders so I can run 7-8K cruising 50 or so. Will put this motor to sleep on the bench for a while..and see how the higher RPM works out for longevity.I know my stock setup would start blowing oil out of the breather if I ran 6K for long periods of time...might have just been a little over full. I was running 7500 all summer in FL on my gy6-150. The engine seemed to take it well but the CVT would get pretty hot. When I switched variators, I didn't have the power to pull the new one and my RPMs were low, even with very light rollers. I like to accelerate at 6500. I switched to the lightest sliders I could find and got good results. You can use fine variator shims to fine tune your RPMs too.
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 14, 2015 18:11:11 GMT -5
I ran high RPMs on my 50cc for the past year, probably part of the reason my belt only lasted 3.5k miles. Lost one valve spring seat as well. High RPMs for extended times are definitely a strain on gy6 engines.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 14, 2015 18:48:11 GMT -5
Yeah,, Im pretty new to these GY6 motors,,I guess I need to build some more trust in them,,7K just seems like its a bit too high for cruising long periods of time to me on one..especially in the hot Summer time. I was cruising around 5-6K all Summer at 40-45 MPH with my stock setup.My heavy sliders get me into high gear pretty quick and I like the lower RPM,,still had plenty of power to pull me up the big hills even at 5-6K. My goal is to get the RPM down to around 5.5k and cruise at 50 with some pulling power left,,its gonna be hard because their is no replacement for displacement,hopefully the BBK will help me accomplish that..probably not..lol I will probably get another motor this Spring and set it up with lighter rollers/sliders so I can run 7-8K cruising 50 or so. Will put this motor to sleep on the bench for a while..and see how the higher RPM works out for longevity.I know my stock setup would start blowing oil out of the breather if I ran 6K for long periods of time...might have just been a little over full. I was running 7500 all summer in FL on my gy6-150. The engine seemed to take it well but the CVT would get pretty hot. When I switched variators, I didn't have the power to pull the new one and my RPMs were low, even with very light rollers. I like to accelerate at 6500. I switched to the lightest sliders I could find and got good results. You can use fine variator shims to fine tune your RPMs too. Nice to know,, I was just out for a couple mile test ride on it and it runs great,,was taking the fuel really good,its got alot more grunt and sounds about two tones lower in pitch than it used too lol. I wanted to take it easy so I just went up the road about 45 mph 1 mile out then back,,i ripped it up wide open once real quick and it accelerates at about 6K from what I saw,,but my eyes are getting pretty bad so not 100% sure. It took me a few hours of putzing around to get all the shrouds and plastics back on the scooter..I also had to adjust the A/F screw OUT some,,the idle went higher as I turned it out about half a turn then it settled there so I left it,,guess it needed a little more fuel on the bottom. Ill probably get one of those NCY oil coolers and a better clutch and bell soon,,also an electric fuel pump then Im done for a while..lol..darn scooters beat up your wallet a little..lol Man I cant wait till it warms up a bit,,i was frozen solid in just 2 miles,,dont know how the heck Geh does it
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