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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 4, 2015 17:02:38 GMT -5
Well Im in the process of doing the 60MM TAIWAN BBK with A10 cam,big port 61mm head and so on..figured I would start to post some pics of the process and document my results when finished... The scooter is a 2012 Taotao ATM 150,,the first two pics are crappy flip phone quality but I will have better ones along with a video in the next few weeks as long as I don't blow anything up in the process..lol..well if I blow something up I will post that too  The kit wont be here until late next week sometime... Stay tuned... Tom   |
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 4, 2015 17:13:26 GMT -5
Why won't it be there till next week ? Can't wait to see how it goes .
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 4, 2015 21:17:49 GMT -5
Well I actually meant late this week,,estimated delivery time is weds-friday..I had a hard time getting the jug off,,had to loosen the foot board and lift it up a few inches or it wouldn't clear..getting the circlip in the piston to hold the wrist pin in is going to be the hardest part,,my eyes are not getting any better,,it was either take the motor out or take some body panels off,,I figured the body panels would be easier..but if I took the motor out the circlip would be cake too slip in...well get R done...
Hey Geh,,
What you think,,maybe try a 120-125 main first,,remember its a 24mm carb?
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 4, 2015 23:03:22 GMT -5
Well I actually meant late this week,,estimated delivery time is weds-friday..I had a hard time getting the jug off,,had to loosen the foot board and lift it up a few inches or it wouldn't clear..getting the circlip in the piston to hold the wrist pin in is going to be the hardest part,,my eyes are not getting any better,,it was either take the motor out or take some body panels off,,I figured the body panels would be easier..but if I took the motor out the circlip would be cake too slip in...well get R done... Hey Geh,, What you think,,maybe try a 120-125 main first,,remember its a 24mm carb? Im not to sure about the 125 . I'd start with the 120 and see how it does. The bigger the bbk the higher the suction through the carb. Im kinda curious how a bigger carb pulls more fuel through a " let's say 125 main " then a small carb "that is at top end " . it may be that the bigger carb allowing for more air flow , is able to burn more fuel at top end , where the smaller carb maybe running too rich . but then again it maybe that at some point the bigger carb exceeds the vacuum of the smaller carb allowing for more fuel to be pulled through the main jet . not really sure. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 5, 2015 8:55:19 GMT -5
I have a couple questions on my first BBK,
When installing the rings I do know they need to be clocked or offset 120 degrees or in a Y pattern so the end gap does not line up with another..also end gap should be around .007 and never be over a clip.
Do the top two rings go in any certain order,,or are they identical and it doesn't matter which one goes top or second?
Thanks!
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 5, 2015 12:01:32 GMT -5
I have a couple questions on my first BBK, When installing the rings I do know they need to be clocked or offset 120 degrees or in a Y pattern so the end gap does not line up with another..also end gap should be around .007 and never be over a clip. Do the top two rings go in any certain order,,or are they identical and it doesn't matter which one goes top or second? Thanks! If im not mistaken my piston on the 58.5 bbk I installed only had 4 rings . I see some with 5 also. My top two rings where exactly the same and I had them staggered at about a 10 and 2 position . I watched a video as I installed them because it was the first time I replaced the top end on a gy6 . |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 5, 2015 14:00:38 GMT -5
There will be FIVE rings: 2 compression, one oil, and the two flimsy ones that fit on either side of the oil (i.e., the "oil ring" is really a sandwich of three individual rings). I did as you suggested - each gapped 120 degrees from the next.
Unless I am mistaken the 2 compression rings ARE different.
If you bought from GY6Racing (in Puerto Rico) the comp. rings will be stamped - make sure they are right side up.
First time i did this I took off the entire back assembly (motor, wheel, etc.) which is pretty simple. However, you then have an unstable assembly to play with while putting the BBK on. Later i did as you did: remove the floorboard (and loosen the gas tank to shift forward a bit), and do the work with the engine attached to the scooter so it's not flopping around. I guess in retrospect it's about the same either way.
One mistake I made was to install the piston upside down (as in, indent for intake was under the exhaust valve, and vice versa. Normally a piston is marked to indicate the intake side; the 60mm one i got had an arrow stamped on the top that I "thought" showed the direction of flow (from intake to exhaust). Not correct, and i ended up buying a second BBK. To be sure measure the two indents on the top of the piston: the larger one (about 1/10th inch bigger) is the intake side.
Also make sure you have the centering pins (slip on over the head bolts) in place or you will be redoing it. There are 2 at every stage: 2 between the block & the jug; 2 between the jug and the head; 2 between the head and the valve assembly.
Have fun!
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 5, 2015 16:12:05 GMT -5
Thanks guys,, I will post some pics of the rings and piston when I get them just to be sure it goes in the right way the first time... Here is the BBK I got..from the pic the piston looks to have the same size indents for the valves on both sides but I will measure them,,you would think if it has a bigger indent that would go toward the bigger valve like the exhaust side,you confused me a bit?? I also measured my crank case opening,,its 63mm so plenty of room,,the BBK is 61mm OD of jug.  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 5, 2015 17:15:38 GMT -5
I believe that's the same kit I have.
The piston (if the same) will have an arrow on it. Deceptive. Go by indent size. They may seem the same size, or almost the same size, but the BIGGER one goes under the BIGGER valve ~~~ which is the INTAKE valve (not the exhaust).
I installed it the wrong way and (according to Alley) ended up with "vibrating piston syndrome", or VPS which caused the piston to hit the sides of the jug. After only 600 miles it was trashed and I had to buy a new kit. Now I have an extra new 61mm cylinder head, since it was only the jug & piston that had been damaged.
Side note: I got the A9 cam ---- slightly less "hot" than your A10. I also got one of those orange / red "performance CDIs". If you have one, get rid of it immediately!
The BBK and cam make it a lot harder for the starter to turn the motor over. And, the CDI is crap - fixed advanced ignition angle that causes the ignition, when starting, far too soon such that the engine will bang to a momentary halt several times before catching (then it's OK). My own pet theory is THIS is what caused the damage to my piston & jug - the "bang-stop" is quite violent, as if a mechanical interferance suddenly stopped the engine from turning (at first I thought my kickstarter was catching the crankshaft and causing the trouble).
This weekend i put the OEM, stock CDI back in and everything is OH so much better. Have a new "ADVANCING ANGLE" CDI (not advanced angle) on order that only advances ignition as RPMs increase.
Have fun!
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 5, 2015 17:20:14 GMT -5
ps: the same seller has a nice 30mm carb. for a very good price. You might consider this so your BBK gets it's full share of food. You will need a bigger intake manifold to match the bigger output hole in the carb and bigger port in your new cylinder head ---- but if memory serves correctly, this comes with the new carb. from the seller (presuming you are using the one I used).
I got one and the engine is very grateful.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 5, 2015 17:21:19 GMT -5
Oh yeah,,your right!!! I was looking at it wrong,,the bigger valve is the intake,,thanks alot for the heads up man!! Awesome!!! I will probably get the carb too,,thanks!! The CDI I have in there now is a progress racing,,I like it better than the orange one I had(hard starting),,it seems to start good,,I do have a stock one or two here so if the blue one starts havock I will change it until I get a good one from John...think he has the adjustable ones also.. BTW-That was your cam stopper slamming when the motor fires backwards,,I was just going to grind the tit off my cam stopper so it wouldnt slam like that and if the motor started backwards a quick blip of the throttle should kill it...or hit the key.. Is this the carb you guys are running?? Looks like its got an accelerator pump on it,,kinda cool..wont ever get that bog when you hit the fuel hard ever again! www.ebay.com/itm/SCOOTER-150CC-GY6-RACING-HIGH-PERFORMANCE-CARB-30MM-/191464938692 |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 5, 2015 17:55:59 GMT -5
That's it. Great seller too ! Every shipment except one (CVT belt) arrived here in San Diego TWO DAYS after ordering.
Love that carb. The pumper is wonderful. I just switched over to a manual choke this past weekend, but it seems i don't even need to open the manual choke. Just a squirt from the pumper and the scoot starts instantly.
One more thing: for less than $20 you can switch over to a modern electric fuel pump. My ever so humble opinion is this is one of the best mods I've done. Let me know if interested - the same pump beck Arnley sells for $60 or $80 can be had for $15 including shipping costs if ordered off ebay from china.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 5, 2015 18:00:24 GMT -5
Yeah I will get a pump,,if you want you can PM me the info brother!
I never liked the enricher mechanism/circuit on the GY6 anyway and I only ride when its sorta warm so the pumper will fire it right up,,had a harley with one and never used the choke.
Tom
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 5, 2015 18:04:31 GMT -5
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 5, 2015 18:09:34 GMT -5
Thats not bad at all,,
I put one like that on a john deere tractor this fall,,they work really good!!
You NEVER have to worry about an empty bowl with that thing inline..lol
What did you just splice into the wire that feeds the solenoid/key on 12vdc power?
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