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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 5, 2015 18:12:32 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 5, 2015 19:27:10 GMT -5
There will be FIVE rings: 2 compression, one oil, and the two flimsy ones that fit on either side of the oil (i.e., the "oil ring" is really a sandwich of three individual rings). I did as you suggested - each gapped 120 degrees from the next. Unless I am mistaken the 2 compression rings ARE different. If you bought from GY6Racing (in Puerto Rico) the comp. rings will be stamped - make sure they are right side up. First time i did this I took off the entire back assembly (motor, wheel, etc.) which is pretty simple. However, you then have an unstable assembly to play with while putting the BBK on. Later i did as you did: remove the floorboard (and loosen the gas tank to shift forward a bit), and do the work with the engine attached to the scooter so it's not flopping around. I guess in retrospect it's about the same either way. One mistake I made was to install the piston upside down (as in, indent for intake was under the exhaust valve, and vice versa. Normally a piston is marked to indicate the intake side; the 60mm one i got had an arrow stamped on the top that I "thought" showed the direction of flow (from intake to exhaust). Not correct, and i ended up buying a second BBK. To be sure measure the two indents on the top of the piston: the larger one (about 1/10th inch bigger) is the intake side. Also make sure you have the centering pins (slip on over the head bolts) in place or you will be redoing it. There are 2 at every stage: 2 between the block & the jug; 2 between the jug and the head; 2 between the head and the valve assembly. Have fun! My 58.5 kit I bought 3 yrs ago only came with two compression rings " both the same exact size and two oil rings. I still see some on eBay that are like that but most have 5 rings. I never had a problem with it yet and have over 16000 miles on the kit . |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 5, 2015 19:48:31 GMT -5
Wow,,yeah this one looks like it has 5,,two small oil rings that sandwich a separator(if you want to call it a ring)then two compression rings..just like my stock 57mm setup...so 4 rings and a separator.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 7, 2015 13:57:07 GMT -5
Well I got the BBK kit today,, That was quick!! The valves are same size as stock but are stainless and springs are stronger. Really nice quality looking head and jug man!! PORT SIZE.. 24mm stock intake 27mm big port head intake 23mm stock exhaust 26mm big port exhaust So that alone is going to be awesome!! Stock intake cam lift 26.3mm A10 intake cam lift 27.3mm Stock exhaust lift 26.50mm A10 exhaust lift 27.3mm Wow 1mm of lift sweet!! Wouldn't want to much more cause then you need alot more spring..plus parts will wear quicker.. Got a question on the compression rings,,looks like one has a silver face other bronze looking..both are 1mm thick and neither have any numbers on them..think it matters which one goes top or bottom?? Both ring grooves in piston are same size too 1mm hair bigger.  Piston has arrow pointing towards exhaust side or smaller indent as well,,like you said bro!  Checked ring end gap on the two compression rings,,one is .005 and other is .006 so I may just get a small piece of high grit sandpaper and take them both to .007 or do you guys think .005 is enough for expansion without gouging? Thanks for all the replies.. Will have an update as soon as it warms up a bit to go outside and play!! Its 7 degrees outside.. Tom UPDATE!! A closer look spotted a T on one ring and a 2T on the other..so maybe the T goes on top and 2T bottom..will message the seller also.. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 7, 2015 15:22:55 GMT -5
I also have a little concern about the scuff marks on these rocker lift pads where the cam rode,,scoot only had 4000km on it,,when I run my finger nail over them I cant feel any abrasions or low spots,,feels really good to me,,is this something I can buff out or just dont worry about it? The stock cam lobes look good!  Also have the ring end gap's set to .008 for both compression rings,,that still may be too too tight according to some research,,but according to the Norcal rebuild video thats where the tech set his? Did you guys even bother checking it lol ? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 7, 2015 16:29:05 GMT -5
Congrats.
Yeah - the shipping from GY6Racing is great, isn't it?
The markings (which you saw) are pretty faint. I put the T on top and the 2T below it, but that was just a guess. Working so far.
The jug was a near perfect fit in my crankcase --- a little jiggling to get it to slide in, but once started a matched fit.
Make sure you do not (like me) forget the placement pins (2) between the crankcase and the jug, causing you to have to take the thing apart again.
And after that mistake make sure you do not (like me) forget the placement pins (2) between the jug and the head, causing you to have to take the thing apart again.
And after that mistake make sure you do not (like me) forget the placement pins (2) between the head and the rocker carrier, causing you to have to take the thing apart again.
DOH!
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 7, 2015 16:30:54 GMT -5
I didnt even check end gap.
As for your rocker lobes ---- I'd replace those puppies. That part (rocker assembly) is so cheap, why take a chance (especially now that you have a glorious new 2 million cc engine).
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 7, 2015 16:32:29 GMT -5
Congrats. Yeah - the shipping from GY6Racing is great, isn't it? The markings (which you saw) are pretty faint. I put the T on top and the 2T below it, but that was just a guess. Working so far. The jug was a near perfect fit in my crankcase --- a little jiggling to get it to slide in, but once started a matched fit. Make sure you do not (like me) forget the placement pins (2) between the crankcase and the jug, causing you to have to take the thing apart again. And after that mistake make sure you do not (like me) forget the placement pins (2) between the jug and the head, causing you to have to take the thing apart again. And after that mistake make sure you do not (like me) forget the placement pins (2) between the head and the rocker carrier, causing you to have to take the thing apart again. DOH! Been there, done that, join the club!  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 7, 2015 16:44:59 GMT -5
Hahaha,,ok man,,I will order a new rocker set,,I already went outside too see if it would fit and its a tight squeeze but it went right in..lol
I need to talk to John about a good rocker assy. I want to go a bit better than stock since I'm replacing it anyway...
His shipping was super fast too,,NYC to NJ..boom!
Hey John???
Where are you???
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 7, 2015 21:24:40 GMT -5
I ordered it(rocker assembly) from GY6 store out of Carolina,,think it was $14 shipped,,that is not bad at all..everything in the top end will be new now except for the head nuts and washers...I even have a non-EGR cover coming for it..and a 30mm pumper is surely going to be a must have for this set up eventually. I found a formula for figuring out the end gap perfect.. My bore is 2.350 inches so top ring should be .0094 and second ring down .01175 so.009 an .011 should be fine... check it out guys!!  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 8, 2015 14:51:27 GMT -5
Here is a quick unedited video of how I clocked my rings....
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 8, 2015 17:16:03 GMT -5
There will be FIVE rings: 2 compression, one oil, and the two flimsy ones that fit on either side of the oil (i.e., the "oil ring" is really a sandwich of three individual rings). I did as you suggested - each gapped 120 degrees from the next. Unless I am mistaken the 2 compression rings ARE different. If you bought from GY6Racing (in Puerto Rico) the comp. rings will be stamped - make sure they are right side up. First time i did this I took off the entire back assembly (motor, wheel, etc.) which is pretty simple. However, you then have an unstable assembly to play with while putting the BBK on. Later i did as you did: remove the floorboard (and loosen the gas tank to shift forward a bit), and do the work with the engine attached to the scooter so it's not flopping around. I guess in retrospect it's about the same either way. One mistake I made was to install the piston upside down (as in, indent for intake was under the exhaust valve, and vice versa. Normally a piston is marked to indicate the intake side; the 60mm one i got had an arrow stamped on the top that I "thought" showed the direction of flow (from intake to exhaust). Not correct, and i ended up buying a second BBK. To be sure measure the two indents on the top of the piston: the larger one (about 1/10th inch bigger) is the intake side. Also make sure you have the centering pins (slip on over the head bolts) in place or you will be redoing it. There are 2 at every stage: 2 between the block & the jug; 2 between the jug and the head; 2 between the head and the valve assembly. Have fun! My 58.5 kit I bought 3 yrs ago only came with two compression rings " both the same exact size and two oil rings. I still see some on eBay that are like that but most have 5 rings. I never had a problem with it yet and have over 16000 miles on the kit . You know what , I never looked at the spring separator as a ring . I did notice many list the pistons as coming with 5 rings . they are counting the spring separator as a ring . so of course mine came with the 4 rings and the separator. |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 8, 2015 17:27:39 GMT -5
Yup,,the separator has nothing to do with compression or oil,it is not a ring even though most call it one,,the end gap doesn't matter on it,the two ends will touch slightly,,and it doesn't really matter where you put the gap,,its basically just a separator/spacer for the oil rings,,it sits back inside the groove and acts like a cushion between the two oil rings,,it never even hits the wall from what I see..
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Post by xyshannen on Jan 9, 2015 14:09:25 GMT -5
Just curious as to why you went with the a10?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 9, 2015 15:40:52 GMT -5
Not 100% sure bro..I read an A8 was compared to stock so I figured A10 would give me just a little more lift...and it did 1mm across the board.
Didn't want to go to big cause then you get alot of slap on the valves to seats...but I guess with a better head that would be fine.Plus i still have a 24mm carb..
I bet the A10 will take alot of air and fuel,,heck the stock cam can handle a 30mm carb.
The cam size is something I am going to experiment with in the future though...
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