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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 29, 2014 1:58:34 GMT -5
Thanks, lain! There are commercial modification kits for $30 to $50 that change over these trouble prone enrichers to manual. But there is some satisfaction in solving the problem yourself, huh? Certainly cheaper (I even happen to have a spark choke cable lying around from my motorcycle).
Maybe, though, it would simply be better to seal off the openings in the enrisher casting (maybe just by separating the plunger/needle from the enricher and dropping it into the housing so the thing is always "closed" .... then add the choke cable to the carburetor's throttle wheel next to the thrttle cable, so I can manually adjust the idle speed up if needed.
Can't figure out which would be better.
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Post by retrobrian on Dec 29, 2014 11:04:53 GMT -5
I too am in San Diego and find the enricher ness. for the initial start. If yours is going to 4000 rpm... im guessing your scoot is out of tune. mine goes up to about 2200 rpm for about 30-40 seconds...then drops off
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 29, 2014 12:21:32 GMT -5
I too am in San Diego and find the enricher ness. for the initial start. If yours is going to 4000 rpm... im guessing your scoot is out of tune. mine goes up to about 2200 rpm for about 30-40 seconds...then drops off Mine is def necessary, however my rpms climb up to around 3500 rpms at its highest then it eventually falls to idle between 1500 and 1800 rpms " now that my vacuum leak is fixed". |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 29, 2014 12:26:07 GMT -5
The factory enricher is a waste of time IMO,,they should have just put a normal manual butterfly choke on these..the enricher does little to nothing when its below 30 degrees,,times like that need some real fuel supply. How's it going ? I have a 32mm pumper carb and the enricher on it works great even below 20 degrees. It probably all depends on the carb and other factors. I usually have to give it some throttle " for about 15 sec" when its very cold but after that it warms up just fine . |
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Post by alleyoop on Dec 29, 2014 13:14:50 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 29, 2014 15:07:51 GMT -5
Hey!
Yes, the enricher "works" (I guess a lot of them get stuck in the "on" position, which is the resting position for this thing - can't design more poorly than that!).
The problem is when the enricher is on the RPMs go too high. I guess mine has too big an airway and/or fuel opening for the engine. After the enricher warms up and shuts off my engine calms down to 2,000 RPM and is fine. But 4,000 during the first few minutes puts it right at the edge of the clutch engaging, which will probably wear out the clutch very quickly
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 29, 2014 15:08:34 GMT -5
Thanks, Alley!
What did you use for the needle & plunger that fits into the enricher casting?
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 29, 2014 15:17:46 GMT -5
Hey! Yes, the enricher "works" (I guess a lot of them get stuck in the "on" position, which is the resting position for this thing - can't design more poorly than that!). The problem is when the enricher is on the RPMs go too high. I guess mine has too big an airway and/or fuel opening for the engine. After the enricher warms up and shuts off my engine calms down to 2,000 RPM and is fine. But 4,000 during the first few minutes puts it right at the edge of the clutch engaging, which will probably wear out the clutch very quickly I just read my post above , my rpms rise to around 3500 rpms while the enricher is on .I don't know how I typed 2800 ? 4000 is a little to high. |
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Post by alleyoop on Dec 29, 2014 15:18:47 GMT -5
I used an old ENRICHER's valve and needle: Alleyoop EXTENDED SHUTS OFF EXTRA FUEL:  RETRACTED FEEDS EXTRA FUEL:  |
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 29, 2014 16:26:15 GMT -5
And you attached the new choke cable to the old enricher guts ... how? The way that was described in the link Lian came up with?
sobisource.com/gy6-manual-choke-conversion/
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..BAD TO THE BONE..