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Post by tvnacman on Dec 24, 2014 10:15:28 GMT -5
under the display is a flat head screw , if you turn it a very little it will move the pointer . I have not used an analog meter in a long time , but in some cases it is the better choice . If your power pulse and grounds are good the we need to start looking into cdi and coil . I know brand new , but have they be tested ? I have seen a working coil and cdi on a poor running engine , when you change the cdi or coil it runs different . Here is what I think is going on that is a huge BBK with a lot of compression it labors to crank over . Connect jumper cables from a car to your battery (DO NOT RUN THE CAR ENGINE) see if it improves the cranking . A lot of times the timing can cause kickbacks and poor cranking and starting . A lot of guys installed this with nice positive change . If you look at the list of mods in peoples signature Variable timing cdi . Non of it means anything if you have a weak battery , have you tried to kick it started ? John |
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Post by lain on Dec 24, 2014 11:09:38 GMT -5
under the display is a flat head screw , if you turn it a very little it will move the pointer . I have not used an analog meter in a long time , but in some cases it is the better choice . If your power pulse and grounds are good the we need to start looking into cdi and coil . I know brand new , but have they be tested ? I have seen a working coil and cdi on a poor running engine , when you change the cdi or coil it runs different . Here is what I think is going on that is a huge BBK with a lot of compression it labors to crank over . Connect jumper cables from a car to your battery (DO NOT RUN THE CAR ENGINE) see if it improves the cranking . A lot of times the timing can cause kickbacks and poor cranking and starting . A lot of guys installed this with nice positive change . If you look at the list of mods in peoples signature Variable timing cdi . Non of it means anything if you have a weak battery , have you tried to kick it started ? John No kickstarter at the moment, no one I know has a car I can jump off of. When I go out to test it it is on a fully charged battery. No difference with another of the same exact battery and known to be working either. I have tried multiple coils, I have 3, 2 of them are known to be working, one of them new. How do I test power pulse? I looked up guides but I still don't understand no one mentions pulse in their guides. Does it matter how thick or thin the ground jumper wires are? I was planning to make them out of scrap wires I have around from computer projects. |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 24, 2014 11:28:48 GMT -5
Well your looking to test the ignition circuit 14 or 16 gauge wire is fine 14 is fine for most items on the scooters except the electric start .
off your stator you have you have to bullet connectors one is black/red the other is blue/white or blue/yellow , your looking for .5 vac while cranking .
John
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Post by lain on Dec 24, 2014 13:40:32 GMT -5
Well your looking to test the ignition circuit 14 or 16 gauge wire is fine 14 is fine for most items on the scooters except the electric start . off your stator you have you have to bullet connectors one is black/red the other is blue/white or blue/yellow , your looking for .5 vac while cranking . John Okay so I think I found something that may point out the problem. I followed your instructions and first I started with creating the ground wires. After doing so there was no change at all in how it started or sparked. Then I moved on and hooked up my meter to the bullet connectors (mine are red/black and blue/yellow) and saw that when I cranked trying to read it at 10v ac range it topped out the meter, so i tried 50v ac range and it showed it was reading 40v at the top of the cranks. Holy crud! That doesn't seem right at all! This is the pickup coil connection right??? What could cause this? A loose wire on the stator maybe? The stator is what is supposed to produce around 40v during startup not the pickup  |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 24, 2014 13:49:33 GMT -5
the black/red is power to power ignition 40vac is great !!
the blue/yellow is your pick up/pulse .5vac .
both to ground .
John
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Post by lain on Dec 24, 2014 14:03:10 GMT -5
the black/red is power to power ignition 40vac is great !! the blue/yellow is your pick up/pulse .5vac . both to ground . John So I checked again, because last time I actually put the probes in both of the bullet connectors, this time I did it with the red probe on the blue/yellow and the black probe on the ground wire I just hooked up all over all the connections and it read NOTHING. No reading not even a tiny jump, and I was using the 10v ac range. The red/black still reads 40v ac. |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 24, 2014 14:25:05 GMT -5
you should have gone back to the 50v scale and rechecked the power .
never mind above check the pulse coil sounds like its no good . make sure its tight and close to the flywheel and not hitting .
John
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Post by lain on Dec 24, 2014 14:33:02 GMT -5
you should have gone back to the 50v scale and rechecked the power . never mind above check the pulse coil sounds like its no good . make sure its tight and close to the flywheel and not hitting . John I did actually notice a weird knocking sound coming from the fan area last time I ran but I thought it was just my muffler vibrating cuz one of my exhaust studs broke out. I will look and take a picture of inside the fan area, I don't think I can remove the fan or flywheel yet until I have a flywheel puller right? |
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Post by lain on Dec 24, 2014 14:47:20 GMT -5
you should have gone back to the 50v scale and rechecked the power . never mind above check the pulse coil sounds like its no good . make sure its tight and close to the flywheel and not hitting . John I did actually notice a weird knocking sound coming from the fan area last time I ran but I thought it was just my muffler vibrating cuz one of my exhaust studs broke out. I will look and take a picture of inside the fan area, I don't think I can remove the fan or flywheel yet until I have a flywheel puller right? It actually visually looks okay, the metal part of the pickup looks like it is close to the bump on the flywheel.  |
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 24, 2014 14:58:07 GMT -5
check the resistance of the pick up coil .
John
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 24, 2014 15:08:11 GMT -5
I would recheck the pulse voltage with it unplugged .
John
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Post by lain on Dec 24, 2014 15:26:56 GMT -5
I would recheck the pulse voltage with it unplugged . John I thought the same thing and did. So the resistance showed up at 0, when I cranked it would bounce a tiny bit but not much. I then checked the voltage again, this time I used the engine case as the negative, and it showed up at about 0.2v ac (1 tiny red notch while reading at 10v ac range) while cranking. I checked to make sure it was at 0 before testing the voltage. |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 24, 2014 15:34:25 GMT -5
Did you make sure the wire connecting the your coil to the spark plug boot was screwed in all the way ? Also this wire may need to be removed , trimmed and screwed back together . this will give you nice good connections between the coil and the plug boot. Yes, I always make sure it is all the way in (because that's how she likes it haha). I used 2 different ignition coils with the same exact results, but I would like to know how to do what you just said so I can try it anyways. Do I have to solder them on? What kind of solder would work? All the soldering jobs I've tried to do on the scoot have fallen apart from vibration. My next steps I am going to do are jumping all the grounds, then checking what I can with my meter though even after looking up guides I don't quite understand what I am doing. I have a new stator otw just in case it is that, my friend ordered it for me for xmas lol No solder involved . if I suspect my coil wire is loose "where It connects to the boot and the coil " I'll unscrew the wire from the boot and from the coil . then I'll cut about 1/2 inch of the wire off of each end so when you screw the boot and the coil back into the wire you have a new and better connection. Just don't make the wire to short. Glad to see you may have figured out the problem . or at least getting close |
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Post by lain on Dec 24, 2014 16:25:21 GMT -5
Yes, I always make sure it is all the way in (because that's how she likes it haha). I used 2 different ignition coils with the same exact results, but I would like to know how to do what you just said so I can try it anyways. Do I have to solder them on? What kind of solder would work? All the soldering jobs I've tried to do on the scoot have fallen apart from vibration. My next steps I am going to do are jumping all the grounds, then checking what I can with my meter though even after looking up guides I don't quite understand what I am doing. I have a new stator otw just in case it is that, my friend ordered it for me for xmas lol No solder involved . if I suspect my coil wire is loose "where It connects to the boot and the coil " I'll unscrew the wire from the boot and from the coil . then I'll cut about 1/2 inch of the wire off of each end so when you screw the boot and the coil back into the wire you have a new and better connection. Just don't make the wire to short. Glad to see you may have figured out the problem . or at least getting close So I just tried doing that, I unscrewed the end of the coil wire from the boot, cut a half inch then screwed it back in and connected it back up to the spark plug. I tried starting it, no change in trying to start it. I then tried with a tiny squirt of starter fluid in the intake of the carb, still no change, no start. So do you guys think it is the pickup or is it the cdi? The pickup showed up at about 0.2v ac, I wish I had a digital one so I coudl give a better reading. Is that enough to start it up or does it need 0.5v? |
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Post by geh3333 on Dec 24, 2014 20:13:48 GMT -5
Well both are pretty cheap , I would buy a cdi and a new pick up . if anything you'll have an extra cdi or pick up.
Where did you find the three prong spark plug?
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