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Post by geh3333 on Aug 22, 2014 23:00:20 GMT -5
Mine is a 'classic" (Chinese Vespa style) so the windshield is pretty upright. It was originally very tall - hugely tall, but i and a friend cut it down (and cracked it a little in the process). Polycarb glue fixed that though. I'll take and post a photo tomorrow for your opinion, if you don't mind. The stock carb had a 105 (which i still have). Then i got 3 from ScootDgs - 115, 120 & 130. I first read, 2 months ago, a scoot w/ free flow intake & exhaust at sea level should take more like a 130, so that's what i first tried. It was terrible. Then tried the 120. Not as bad, but the scooter still felt kind of lagging. So now there is a 115. Great acceleration, but weak top end. If your not bogging your jetting is close , so we may be able to get it adjusted without rejetting . |
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 23, 2014 16:01:56 GMT -5
Took the side cover off today and did the "marked variator face" test. Seems the belt is climbing higher than it was when the washer was there --- maybe now a/8 or 3/16 from the edge.  Don't know if this is important or even valid (since the photos are with the engine NOT turning), but it appears at least at rest the belt is not all the way down to the boss:   |
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 23, 2014 21:16:31 GMT -5
Your belt was way to loose before , I did notice it in the other pic , but it's perfect now , you don't want the belt to sit on the boss . Sorry I was gone all day I took the kids to the yearly parade in carmicheals , did u get your header ?
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 23, 2014 21:33:00 GMT -5
even though he belt is not touching on the top or bottom it is slightly closer to the boss towards the front " where it raps around " you can do the same test by marking the bottom of the inside of the variator fac to see how far down the belt is traveling . I don't like the belt touching the boss because you don't want any belt residue to build up on the boss , I had this happen once and my boss got stuck inside the variator an I had to take the variator off and pound it out lol. U gained slightly more belt travel then I expected , that's a good thing .
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 23, 2014 21:38:02 GMT -5
Another thing id like you to check is the spark plug " if it's torqued down enough " because if it's loose you will loose some compression and that will cause problems also . I just want to make sure everything is right before we start on the cvt because if we tune the cvt then we fix a potential problem that gives you more power we'll have to more than likely adjust the cvt again .
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Post by scooter on Aug 23, 2014 21:40:42 GMT -5
BTW .......... I ahve a windshield on this thing. Added one because couldn't see anything with the wind .... and the people i read online claimed a windshield does not hurt top end (because it's 'cleaner', aerodynamically, than your body). But maybe that's not true and the windshield is causing the problem. Easy to take off and check ..... Mine has a windshield and it is not very aerodynamic but there is no way I'm getting rid of it. It keeps the wind and rain hitting me at much lower levels and the reduction of wind blast noise alone is worth the loss of top end speed. Until I got mine, I couldn't hear the engine running! |
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 23, 2014 22:23:35 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 23, 2014 22:25:38 GMT -5
My windshield is VERY non-aerodynamic. The scooter is like an old Vespa - rider sits very upright and the windshield is very upright also.
Took it off today to see if there was any performance difference; didn't notice much.
Will take and post a photo for advice tomorrow.
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 24, 2014 14:49:50 GMT -5
Have a few responses to the thread I started about the weird header I received: itistheride.boards.net/thread/6614/all-exhaust-experts?page=1&scrollTo=75659and am feeling what I got is not usable. Damn ... this will set me back a week or more (plus a fight with the people who sold the thing). Just broke down and ordered a 60 mm big bore kit (jug + head + A9 cam), hoping I ordered something and something that will help my poor, timid little scooter. Question: is it necessary to drop the engine to put the new head on, or can I do it 'in situ'? Or, can I leave the rear axle attached, swing the engine down, and do the work that way? How much does the engine/transmission weight (i.e., can I lift and carry it)? |
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 24, 2014 21:53:08 GMT -5
That header isn't any better then the stock , the one that came with my high performance exhaust is like the ncy header " that is the size of the opening and all the way through . When it comes to the bbk I'd leave the rear wheel and swingArm attached , there is no need to remove all of that . After you disconnect the wiring and the throttle cable plus the fuel line , then u can set a block or whatever will work under the engine and remove the two engine mount bolts . Leave the mount attached to the top of the engine " u can use it to move the engine around " . I always set a towel on a block and set the engine on it . It can be done without dropping the engine but I like to have the extra room , whatever way you feel comfortable with is ok . There is also a ground you'll have to remove before dropping the engine " if you go that way . After you remove all of the plastic you'll be able to have a better feel for the room you have to work with , and you'll be ably to make your decision to drop it or not .
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 24, 2014 22:01:59 GMT -5
Thanks for your expert knowledge.
I kind of got that impression (about the non-performance "performance" header) and guess I'll need to order another.
The BBK should arrive some time this week, so I guess I need to get serious about that job (and probably - if you agree) stop worrying about fine tuning anything until these changes are done. Correct? Or should we proceed anyway?
OK - so leave the wheel & swing arm attached. That means the engine/wheel/etc will all be removed, or that means leave the wheel attached to the scooter, disconnect the engine and tilt it down to world on? When you say "leave the engine mount to move it around" it sounds like I'll be taking the engine/etc off the scooter completely. Yes? No?
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 24, 2014 22:09:43 GMT -5
When it comes to the weight of the engine , just off the top of my head I'm gonna say around 60lbs, it's not hard to move around . If you leave the rear wheel attached you can just pull it around .
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 24, 2014 22:14:49 GMT -5
Thanks for your expert knowledge. I kind of got that impression (about the non-performance "performance" header) and guess I'll need to order another. The BBK should arrive some time this week, so I guess I need to get serious about that job (and probably - if you agree) stop worrying about fine tuning anything until these changes are done. Correct? Or should we proceed anyway? OK - so leave the wheel & swing arm attached. That means the engine/wheel/etc will all be removed, or that means leave the wheel attached to the scooter, disconnect the engine and tilt it down to world on? When you say "leave the engine mount to move it around" it sounds like I'll be taking the engine/etc off the scooter completely. Yes? No? Remove the engine with the wheel and swing arm still attached to the engine . U can remove the exhaust after the engine is pulled out" |
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 24, 2014 22:19:17 GMT -5
When it comes to the tuning we can try to get it right " if your gonna be ridding it in the meantime " or we can wait , it's up to you . Like you said we are gonna have to do it again after the bbk and other mods are done .
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Post by rcq92130 on Aug 24, 2014 22:22:33 GMT -5
Thanks. Will remove all of that together.
I want and need to be respectful of all the time (and knowledge) you have already offered to me, and not waste your time frivolously. I can wait till the mods are done - maybe by next weekend (except I may not yet have the new exhaust header - but that's just related to the carb tuning I think.
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