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by: geh3333 - Aug 5, 2014 22:36:31 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 5, 2014 22:36:31 GMT -5
Alley is 100% correct , roller weights will also give you different results depending on the weight of the rider: let's say you have two identical setups with 12gram roller weights . On one the rider weighs 220lbs and the other rider weighs 130lbs , the scoot with the 130lbs rider will run at higher rpms throughout bottom , mid , and top end . To match performance the 130lbs rider will need to raise the weight of the rollers. This will lower the rpms this giving him near the same cvt performance as the heavier rider . Or of course the heavier rider could have lowered the weight of his rollers to match the lighter riders performance . When it comes to tuning the cvt you have to go through the motions because what works for one set up May not work for yours .
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by: rcq92130 - Aug 8, 2014 14:49:12 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 8, 2014 14:49:12 GMT -5
Woo hoo.
Dr Pulley variator is on with 11g sliders. Will take it out on the road shortly to see if there is any noticeable difference.
While in the outer case I noticed:
1. after only 550 miles on this new scooter, there was a TON of rubber dust that needed to be cleaned out. 2. The bushings on the started mechanisms had ZERO grease. 3. The belt was quite hard to even get repositioned around the smallest part of the variator. Too short?
Is all of that normal?
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by: geh3333 - Aug 8, 2014 18:30:26 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 8, 2014 18:30:26 GMT -5
That's normal . What I do is put the belt as far on as I can and then I squeeze the belt together in the middle , this pulls the belt down in the clutch an will give you more room . I repeat this as I tighten the drive face until the drive face is tightened down completely . U want to slowly tighten the drive face after each time you squeeze the belt down the clutch so you don't smash the belt in the variator .
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by: alleyoop - Aug 8, 2014 20:36:17 GMT -5
Post by alleyoop on Aug 8, 2014 20:36:17 GMT -5
Just make sure when you put the Fan pulley on, the Fan GRABS the splines on the crankshaft. In order to get it to grab the splines on the crankshaft you have to squeeze the belt so the belt moves up and allows the fan to move in 1/16 of an inch to grab the splines on the crank shaft. Alleyoop
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by: rcq92130 - Aug 9, 2014 15:57:59 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 9, 2014 15:57:59 GMT -5
Thx for tips. Splines went on fine; belt didn't pinch to my knowledge and seems to be working fine.
However - I can't say I noticed any huge difference between this Dr Pulley variator + 11g sliders and what was on there from the manufacturer. Maybe the scooter was power constrained, not variator constrained.
Anyway, today put on a ScrappyDgs CDI and stuck a 130 main jet in (I'm at sea level). Idle now tuned much better (damn plug was in the way). Have not yet put the Uni filter on since I have not yet made an intake manifold, so the ;larger jet may not help yet (or may even hurt).
Will see more this afternoon.
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by: rcq92130 - Aug 9, 2014 16:00:29 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 9, 2014 16:00:29 GMT -5
Good tip re: getting the belt on, GEH.
The problem I had was getting the side cover on. Shaft of the starter gear didn't want to go in properly - and didn't until suddenly popping in as i screwed the cover down. Worried at first I had broken the cover, but all looks OK. Odd design!
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by: rcq92130 - Aug 9, 2014 16:47:48 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 9, 2014 16:47:48 GMT -5
Wooooooooooo !!!!!!!!!!! Terrible !!!!!!!!!!!
Anything over half throttle and the scooter bogs down, misses & coughs.
Will swap out the CDI first, just because it 's easy, and make sure that's not faulty. Otherwise, have to decide if wait and see if the uni filter mates better with the higher fuel flow, or go ahead and put in a smaller main jet .........
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by: rcq92130 - Aug 9, 2014 17:16:19 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 9, 2014 17:16:19 GMT -5
Problem was not the CDI.
Disconnected the manifold to the air filter (to simulate having the uni filter in place. Coughing at full throttle is no more, but the scooter seems a bit bogged down .... so i suppose a smaller main jet is in order.
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by: scooter - Aug 9, 2014 22:06:26 GMT -5
Post by scooter on Aug 9, 2014 22:06:26 GMT -5
I have a 150cc. I bought a cheap 115mm variator ramp sheave and dropped my weights from 13g to 8g. From 0-10mph the bike is sluggish and drags the motor down. Then the fun begins. Above a few miles per hour, acceleration is very nice, and earlier I counted about 4 seconds from 20-30, 6 from 30-40 and 10 from 40-50 CMPH. (Chinese MPH) The wot rpm is about 5700-6000 or so, and I hit 55mph at about 6300 rpm, for a nice quiet cruise. Before the new variator, it ran 7000 rpm at 55, but it could climb a steep bridge at a very nice clip. That being said, my top end has little power. I often struggle to maintain 55 in the wind, but it will do 60 in calm air. The engine just doesn't have the power to handle the variator, which in my mind is a good thing because I can see that I have maxed out my top end power, plus the 10-50mph acceleration is excellent. I think. This is the only scooter I have ever driven.
I don't know if bigger jets would do anything for me. All I know is that, with the new variator, the last few degrees of throttle are practically useless. It almost seems better to back off a bit on it and it gets all the speed it can produce before the throttle is all the way open. I may try a bigger jet if someone tells me it is capable of giving me more power though, as it only takes a few minutes to pull the carb apart. I do know that I don't want loud pipes. More flow would be nice but I like it as quiet as possible.
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by: rcq92130 - Aug 11, 2014 14:54:32 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 11, 2014 14:54:32 GMT -5
Wow, Scoot .... 8gr sounds awfully light from what I've been reading. Did you experiment with sliders in the 10 or 11 gr range to see if they gave better results?
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by: alleyoop - Aug 11, 2014 15:38:36 GMT -5
Post by alleyoop on Aug 11, 2014 15:38:36 GMT -5
Well all I have to say is something is not right if he has 8gram weights and only getting in the 6000 rpm range that is for sure. With 10gram weights that motor should be running high in the 7000 rpms range. So with lighter weights below 10grams that motor should be screaming. Maybe he doesn't have a tach on it and is just guessing what the rpms are.
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by: rcq92130 - Aug 11, 2014 18:58:22 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 11, 2014 18:58:22 GMT -5
Finally have an "intake manifold" (properly sized and curved piece of exhaust pipe) to install the uni filter.
But about the muffler:
A friend cut the end off the stock muffler and drilled it out, with a larger final exhaust nipple. It's loud right now but can be tuned to be quieter (at the expense of direct flow).
The question is:
Is there any advantage to buying a "high performance" muffler versus just drilling out the stock one?
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by: geh3333 - Aug 11, 2014 19:09:46 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 11, 2014 19:09:46 GMT -5
Well all I have to say is something is not right if he has 8gram weights and only getting in the 6000 rpm range that is for sure. With 10gram weights that motor should be running high in the 7000 rpms range. So with lighter weights below 10grams that motor should be screaming. Maybe he doesn't have a tach on it and is just guessing what the rpms are. That's exactly right , 8 gram weights and you should be around 30 or 40 mph at nearly 8000 rpms . If I go below 10 grams I redline before I hit my top speed . And that's with the taller tires . Something is def wrong . Also you should be pullin wheelies at takeoff not having sluggish issues.
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by: rcq92130 - Aug 11, 2014 22:18:29 GMT -5
Post by rcq92130 on Aug 11, 2014 22:18:29 GMT -5
Any thought, GEH, on my question about mufflers?
I drilled out the OEM muffler so it --- well, it isn't completely straight pass through, but it's nearly so.
Is that as good as a purchased "high performance muffler"?
Just got my Uni filter on and wantto make sure the exhaust side is OK before going back to jetting the carb.
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by: geh3333 - Aug 11, 2014 23:06:22 GMT -5
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Post by geh3333 on Aug 11, 2014 23:06:22 GMT -5
Any thought, GEH, on my question about mufflers? I drilled out the OEM muffler so it --- well, it isn't completely straight pass through, but it's nearly so. Is that as good as a purchased "high performance muffler"? Just got my Uni filter on and wantto make sure the exhaust side is OK before going back to jetting the carb. I believe it will help , however I do like the bigger diameter header that the hp exhausts come with . Remember if you do end up purchasing a new exhaust don't be afraid of the cheaper eBay exhausts . Also I do prefer a bigger head if you want to increase the air and fuel flow to and through the engine . If you don't match the ports as closely as possible "from the carb to the manifold through the head to the header " then you will never get that much out of the uni and the modified muffler . My 58.5 racing head not only had bigger intake and exhaust ports but it also has a bigger chamber which let's in more air and fuel to burn " yes the chamber isn't that much bigger then stock but it is bigger " to answer your question , yes I do believe it will help out but the question is " how much?"
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