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Post by ezgoin28 on May 18, 2014 4:43:44 GMT -5
The new shocks were roughly $100 for the pair. The shoocks themselves are a little stiff in my opinion but I think they will give you the clearance you need . Hope you get it figured out.
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Post by william42 on May 18, 2014 10:05:33 GMT -5
The cap isn't bolted to the frame, the top (Rod End) of the shock is. The cap mearly serves as a stop for the spring and butts up against the rod end. It looks as though the cap is what's hitting the shock mount so moving that cap away from the mount would lessen the chance of the two hitting each other. If the spring were removed from the shock the spring cap should be free to move as well (slide away from the rod end). If indeed the cap is what's hitting the shock mount, by inserting a spacer between the rod end and the cap would put spacing between the cap and the shock mount.
Truth be told, I don't know how your shock is put together, but if I understand your problem correctly, and my eyes are seeing your photo correctly, my theory is sound.
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Post by toddscoot71 on May 18, 2014 11:02:54 GMT -5
The cap isn't bolted to the frame, the top (Rod End) of the shock is. The cap mearly serves as a stop for the spring and butts up against the rod end. It looks as though the cap is what's hitting the shock mount so moving that cap away from the mount would lessen the chance of the two hitting each other. If the spring were removed from the shock the spring cap should be free to move as well (slide away from the rod end). If indeed the cap is what's hitting the shock mount, by inserting a spacer between the rod end and the cap would put spacing between the cap and the shock mount. Truth be told, I don't know how your shock is put together, but if I understand your problem correctly, and my eyes are seeing your photo correctly, my theory is sound. No... The top of the shock (the part I keep calling the cap) is one piece. It has a hole in it where the bolt goes through to mount it to the frame. The shock's piston rod is screwed into the bottom of the cap. There's no way to put a spacer between where it mounts to the frame and the cap, it's a solid one piece part.
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Post by toddscoot71 on May 18, 2014 12:33:19 GMT -5
Ok guys... I noticed one more thing that doesn't look quite right. The upper shock bolts have threads on the entire bolt and they're a bit sloppy in the shock's bushing. That would make the caps sit a bit higher since there's some play in the bushing.
I assume the bolts should have an unthreaded area that goes inside the bushing. That's the way it is on every other shock I've ever seen in my life.
Anyone know where to buy replacement shock mounting bolts? I can't seem to find any place that has them online.
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Post by phatboy on May 18, 2014 13:33:49 GMT -5
you can try shock extenders, common item at auto parts store for lifted trucks, not too expensive either. they will lift the rear of your scoot a little though.
also are the shocks mounts the same top to bottom, if so you might be able to mount upside down. some shocks you mount upside down, some you cant.
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Post by toddscoot71 on May 18, 2014 14:54:03 GMT -5
you can try shock extenders, common item at auto parts store for lifted trucks, not too expensive either. they will lift the rear of your scoot a little though. also are the shocks mounts the same top to bottom, if so you might be able to mount upside down. some shocks you mount upside down, some you cant. Shock extenders are a good idea but I'm not sure they would be the same size as the scooter mounts and I really don't want to raise the rear any more than it already is. Unfortunately these shocks can only mount one direction. You can't mount them upside down. I don't know, I'm kind of stuck not knowing which way to go. Maybe I'll try some aftermarket shocks. If anyone happens to know where to buy replacement upper shock bolts please let me know.
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Post by toddscoot71 on May 18, 2014 22:32:54 GMT -5
The new shocks were roughly $100 for the pair. The shoocks themselves are a little stiff in my opinion but I think they will give you the clearance you need . Hope you get it figured out. I see now, if you search for for scooter shocks they're really expensive. If you just search for motorcycle shocks they're not bad. Same exact shocks, different price, go figure. Which length did you get? I'm thinking about trying the 320mm. Also, the picture you have of your shocks it's a bit dark in the area where mine hits so I can't really see how much clearance you have. It actually looks like it's very close like mine but it's hard to tell.
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Post by geh3333 on May 19, 2014 3:07:29 GMT -5
Your right the bolt should only have threads near the end of it . This is starting to sound like someone threw different shocks on the scoot . But if it was bought new it either came that way or the dealer had to swap out the shocks to make another customer happy .
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Post by geh3333 on May 19, 2014 3:25:57 GMT -5
I have a Chinese scoot and my shocks are very close to frame " bracket " but no signs of them hitting . There are different length shocks u can get . An inch longer may also solve the problem. I know u said u didn't want to raise it any though . I bought a new set of rear shocks last yr and they sent me ones that were an inch shorter . Luckily they still work fine .
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Post by ezgoin28 on May 19, 2014 7:47:46 GMT -5
I bought the 340 mm shocks and they are a little longer than stock. The pic is dark and there is very little clearance but they dont rub at all. If I install them with the reservoir on the other side there is more clearance.
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Post by toddscoot71 on May 19, 2014 8:34:41 GMT -5
I have a Chinese scoot and my shocks are very close to frame " bracket " but no signs of them hitting . There are different length shocks u can get . An inch longer may also solve the problem. I know u said u didn't want to raise it any though . I bought a new set of rear shocks last yr and they sent me ones that were an inch shorter . Luckily they still work fine . That's a great idea! I never even thought about slightly longer shocks. That should change the angle enough to give more clearance. You're right though, I really don't want to raise the back of the bike but that may be the only practical solution at this point.
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Post by toddscoot71 on May 19, 2014 11:06:48 GMT -5
I can't seem to find any oem style shocks that are longer than 13.8" eye to eye.
The ones on my bike are 13.5" eye to eye center. Strange thing is all of the 13.8" shocks I see say they are 14.5" long overall. Mine are also 14.5" overall so how can they have different eye to eye lengths? Maybe they're measuring from the edge of the eyes. Ugh.
Anyone every seen them longer than 13.8" eye to eye?
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Post by toddscoot71 on May 19, 2014 14:15:08 GMT -5
If the spring cap isn't welded to the rod end, and I would think it isn't, couldn't you take the shock apart and put a spacer of some sort between the cap and the rod end? That would lower the cap preventing it from hitting the shock mount. I think I dismissed your suggestion too soon. I may have misunderstood what you were saying. The part of the cap that bolts to the frame is one piece but the cap is held on to the shock's damper rod by threads and a locking nut. One thing I'm considering is to take the shock apart and unscrew the cap a few turns then tighten the locking nut. Basically it would make the shock a bit longer thus changing the angle of the cap and hopefully making a bigger gap between the cap and frame. My only concern is having more threads on the damper rod exposed. Anyone know if that would create a stress riser on one of the threads and break the damper rod? I could take up the spring slack by ramping up the preload adjustment.
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Post by william42 on May 19, 2014 18:19:45 GMT -5
Or drill out the threads on the spring cap so it doesn't screw on the shaft but would now slide on the shaft. Then you could put in a spacer.
I would leave as many threads inside the rod end as possible for as much strength as possible.
But if you could just unscrew the cap enough to add a second jam nut, one for the rod end and one for the cap, that might work too.
You just need to figure out a way to get that cap lower and away from the shock mount.
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Post by toddscoot71 on May 19, 2014 18:42:15 GMT -5
Or drill out the threads on the spring cap so it doesn't screw on the shaft but would now slide on the shaft. Then you could put in a spacer. I would leave as many threads inside the rod end as possible for as much strength as possible. But if you could just unscrew the cap enough to add a second jam nut, one for the rod end and one for the cap, that might work too. You just need to figure out a way to get that cap lower and away from the shock mount. Well, I took the shock apart and put a stack of washers under the cap just to see if it would help. Put it all back together on the scooter. Nope... It made a little bit of a space but not enough to make a difference. I guess I'll have to keep searching for shocks. Scooter parts place has some that would probably be perfect but with all the bad reviews I don't dare order from them.
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